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Posted on Nov 17, 2010
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THE BELT IS **** CARNT RIDE IT LIKE YOU HATE IT BECOURS IT BRAKS SICK OF IT CAN YOU UP GRAD IT TO CHAIN OR SOMETHING BETTER I SICK OF THE HOLE BIKE IF THER IS ON BETTER SOLUTION THE BIKE IS GOING SO IF NOT DO YOU NO SOME ONE HOW WOLD WONT ONE IT IN GOOD CONDISON AND HAS SPORTS PARTS ON IT GOOS WELL BUT SICK OF THE BELT 2 ONE IN 12000 KM

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  • Master 8,909 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 17, 2010
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Joined: Aug 19, 2010
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A model would be usefull.

I have owned two Buells, a Cyclone M2 and a Firebolt with stage 2 tuning and never had a problem with the belts on either in over 25000 miles.
I know one person who did and that was due poor adjustment on a Cyclone M1. Another guy picked up a stone, can't do much about that.
Nice machines.

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But I can't get a library card I've. Been using my knowlege on cars my memory from 5 years ago I've retired I've been sick I broke my back I can't walk real good but I can still ride a bike anyway

Non interference motors. When the belts break, the valves slap the pistons. They break or bend( the reason for the weird stop). Putting a new belt on will only break the belt again(you found this out). A leak down test would have shown you not to replace the belt at all. Replace the engine.
tip

How to Remove and Replace the Bottom Bracket on an Indoor Cycling Bike

Following is a basic guideline of removing and replacing the bottom bracket on an indoor cycling bike. Due to the different brands of indoor cycling bikes and designs for bottom brackets, the following should only be used as a guideline. If any of the information is not exact to the bike being serviced, refer to the service manual or call Sportsmith for further help.
Common Tools Needed:
Phillips Screw Driver
Set of Allen Wrenches (standard and metric)
Bottom Bracket Tool
Cotterless Crank Puller Tool
9/16" Socket
Ratchet Wrench
Pedal Wrench
Crescent Wrench
You will begin by removing the outside belt/chain guard by using either or both the Phillips screw driver and Allen wrenches. It may be necessary to remove the drive side pedal (using the pedal wrench) in order to completely remove the outside belt/chain guard.
Once the belt/chain guard is removed, you will need to remove the belt/chain. If the unit is belt driven, you can simply "walk" the belt off the pulley by pushing the belt to the outside while turning the crank backwards. **CAUTION: PINCH POINT ** If the unit is chain driven, most use a continuous chain that can be "walked" off the sprocket just like the belt. **CAUTION: PINCH POINT ** Some chains may use a connecting link and can be separated at the connecting link to remove the chain. The connecting link is different in appearance from all other chain links.
Now it is time to remove the crank arms. How to Use a Cotterless Crank Puller Tool
It works best to place the bike upside down for best leverage to remove the bottom bracket. (If placing the bike upside down, ensure proper seat adjustment for best bike balance.) Begin removing the bottom bracket from the drive side of the bike. This side has a reverse thread. You will need to turn right to loosen and remove the bottom bracket. Place the teeth of the bottom bracket tool into the teeth of the bottom bracket cup. Using the ratchet wrench or crescent wrench to turn the bottom bracket tool, you will turn right to loosen and remove the bottom bracket. (If removal of the bottom bracket is difficult, it helps to use a crescent wrench in combination with a bolt threaded into the bottom bracket shaft to hold the tool in place while applying pressure to break the bottom bracket loose.) Remove the bottom bracket from the frame. Remove the bottom bracket cup and/or lock ring from the non-drive side of the bike. This is a standard thread. You will turn left to loosen and remove this bottom bracket cup and/or lock ring.
Install the new bottom bracket from the drive side and tighten flush to the frame. Install the bottom bracket cup and/or lock ring to the non-drive side and tighten.
Re-install the crank arms and pedals. Make sure the crank arm bolts are tightened to the proper torque. If unsure of proper torque specs, refer to the equipment service manual or call Sportsmith.
Re-install the belt/chain onto the pulley/sprocket. If belt/chain was "walked" off the pulley for removal, it can be "walked" onto the pulley/sprocket by placing the belt or chain along the bottom of the pulley/sprocket. Carefully, turn the crank arm forward while lifting on the belt/chain. **CAUTION: PINCH POINT ** Continuing turning the crank forward until the belt/chain is in place.
Re-install the outside chain guard and test the unit. Ride the bike without tension and test with tension. Ensure functionality and feel of the ride. Make any adjustments if necessary


Removing and Replacing Bottom Bracket on Indoor Cycling Bike
on Mar 11, 2015 • Exercise & Fitness
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Facebook will not stay on my ipad

sick of people acking my account i mwant it safe so no 1 carnt apart frm me x
1helpful
1answer

Hello I own a 05 1200c sportster. I was about to go for a quick ride one day and just as I was going to put the bike on neutral some how I shifted wrong, resulting with the Final Belt drive snapping! I...

The first and easiest thing to check is the primary chain tension. In the middle of the top run, you should have 3/8" to 1/2" up and down play with the engine cold. Check this through the small hole in the top of the outer primary cover. Adjust with the adjuster screw on the underside of the cover. Also look on the inside of the outer cover to see if the sprocket shaft nut has come loose and is rubbing the cover. It could also be a magnet in the rotor on your alternator has come loose. To check that, you'll have to pull the primary chain, engine sprocket, and clutch assembly off to get the rotor off. The mainshaft nut that holds the clutch on had left handed threads.

Good Lucki
Steve
0helpful
1answer

Chain has snapped while riding it and has hit something and now leaking oil from somewhere?

Oh dear !
That sounds serious
Looking at photos of the engine it I cant see any engine protector in forwards of the engine sprocket !!
As the broken end of the chain came around the sprocket it will have whip-lashed forward& hit the crank-cases, probably cracking or tearing a hole in one of the crank-case halves - which can only be bought in pairs.
If that is the case then a replacement engine would be the easiest & cheapest option
BUT If you are very lucky the oil pump cover may have taken the blow and become dis-lodged / cracked hence the leak
Good Luck
Always use high quality chain & sprockets
Email :- 4-TUNE For the best prices on quality products

Ride Safe
Bike-Doc


0helpful
1answer

Somthing broke

Hm, definitely something broke inside the tranny or drive gear as the gear belt still to tight when you rode it out. Better cheeck your tranny parts.....
0helpful
1answer

Bike has 25000 miles when you start it it has a kind of mechanical sound that just started i thought the starter but the more i think about it i suspect the timing chain i almost never really abuse the...

normaly timing chains last for aprox 30,000 miles. it is possible that the cam chain tensioners are sticking. you would also be better off giving the bike some serious throttle at times as this stops the adjusters from sticking, my advice would be to take it out for a ride and giving it some redline action for a while then listen for the noise if its any better or worse,if worse replace camchain and tensioners together...hope this helps
0helpful
1answer

Docati

Unless you do the maint yourself I'd stay away from any duc for a long distance bike since I average about 20k miles a year on my bikes the thought of paying for the 12 k service on a duc leaves me cold. Triumph sprint as mentioned very capable bike, or even better something Japanese, the FJR is quite nice, shaft drive so no chain to deal with. Depends on what kind of distances you want to ride., ,,
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