Question about kawasaki ZXR 400 Motorcycles

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Problematic carburetor on 400cc Kawasaki needle settings have been checked and corrected etc but still no go, please help

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I'll need some more information. Does the bike start at all? Does it idle fine, but then dies if you give it gas? Try to explain in detail what is going on so I can help you with this. There are a few things to check for, start by making sure your gas is good DON'T USE ANY GAS WITH ETHANOL (corn stuff) and that it is new. Another thing is to make sure you are getting spark. A simple way is to take the spark plug out while keeping it in the wire and touching it to the outside of the engine (grounding it), turn the motor over and you should see spark. If not, thats something you will need to correct. You don't have a year or what type of motorcycle so I'm assuming its a late 70's, early 80's KZ400 you are talking about. If so, the points could be the culprit as well (if the spark isn't going). But for the most part, the "needle" settings will only help with it's ability to rev high (main jet) and if it dies at idle, your idle jet is plugged up. Get back to us on the specifics and I can help more.

Bruno

Here is a great site if it IS a KZ400
http://www.kz400.com/

Posted on Nov 08, 2010

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Hi. I have a Kawasaki zzr400. Had the carbs set. Now bike does not start. Sounds like no fuel going through. What might it be.


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For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day.
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How to fix a leaked 400cc Kawasaki carburettor?


Its probably the float sticking in the carb, not shutting off the fuel flow when the bowl fills to the proper level and the leak is really gas flowing out the overflow.

Disassemble the carb and gently clean the needle and seat with Scotch Brite oven pad. Some needles have a rubberized tip and if so, do not attempt to clean with the pad, but inspect it for a worn 'ring' around the perimeter that is failing to seal off the flow of gas into the bowl through the seat. A replacement needle is required if in fact it looks indented.

IF you have already disassembled and cleaned the inside of the carb, you may have jeopardized the intergrity of the bowl gasket. Get some gasket sealant at the local auto parts store and disassemble the carb again. Use a toothpick to run a thin...thin...thin line of Form-a-Gasket sealant around the perimeter of the bowl and GENTLY reassemble the carb. A thin line is a MUST as any excess can be squished inside the carb and possibly block an idle jet of inhibit the action of the float.

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Sounds like you did not get the float adjustment set correctly. It is very particular and it is critical for proper running etc etc. Carb has to be set on the throat and then tilted between 15 to 20 degrees to set the float level or it will be wrong. Greater than 20 degrees will collapse thew pin return spring, less than 15 will not set float properly on needle. Then setting must be 0.413 to 0.453 inches.

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I have a 90 Kawasaki KLF300 Bayou 4X4 and I am having a problem with it running too rich no matter what I do. I have taken the carb apart several times, reset the mixture screw to factory setting. I have...


Hey Dave,
thought I answered this already,,,??? Classic "brass kit" symptom! >>> You need a "brass kit".. this is the needle jet and the jet needle in the center of the carb. The jet needle is the thin needle that hangs down from the center of the slide... The needle jet is the "hole" that the jet needle slides into...Remove the carb, take the bowl off, remove the main jet, the needle jet holder should be able to be gently tapped out, the needle jet is a short brasspiece,, it comes out through the hole where the slide goes,,, reinstall the NEW needle jet, needle jet holder...(it may have a groove in it for correct location). once its seated, you can reinstall the main jet..NOW >> to install a new jet needle,,, remove the slide from the carb.. remove the spring and seat from the slide that holds the needle jet in place.. NOTE which groove the clip is in on the old needle.... (should be the middle one). re install the new needle, reinstall everything else and your atv WILL run fine for a long time..This is a common problem on ATV's..
you need part #'s
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http://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemparts/p/kawasaki/16009-1503/needle-jet-n36w

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The solution on newer mowers was to install an 'in-line' shut-off valve to keep the fuel from syphoning into the carburetor. The inlet needle and seat in the carburetor is NOT replaceable, so a new carburetor is the ultimate solution, but VERY expensive. Installing and using an in-line shut-off valve is more affordable.
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