Question about kawasaki ZXR 400 Motorcycles

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Problematic carburetor on 400cc Kawasaki needle settings have been checked and corrected etc but still no go, please help

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I'll need some more information. Does the bike start at all? Does it idle fine, but then dies if you give it gas? Try to explain in detail what is going on so I can help you with this. There are a few things to check for, start by making sure your gas is good DON'T USE ANY GAS WITH ETHANOL (corn stuff) and that it is new. Another thing is to make sure you are getting spark. A simple way is to take the spark plug out while keeping it in the wire and touching it to the outside of the engine (grounding it), turn the motor over and you should see spark. If not, thats something you will need to correct. You don't have a year or what type of motorcycle so I'm assuming its a late 70's, early 80's KZ400 you are talking about. If so, the points could be the culprit as well (if the spark isn't going). But for the most part, the "needle" settings will only help with it's ability to rev high (main jet) and if it dies at idle, your idle jet is plugged up. Get back to us on the specifics and I can help more.

Bruno

Here is a great site if it IS a KZ400
http://www.kz400.com/

Posted on Nov 08, 2010

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2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. A wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues.
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Hi, Anonymous always check fuel flow first to isolate the problem area otherwise the usual suspects are:
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2. Fuel cap or fuel tank not venting properly.
3. Fuel filter clogged with rust or dirt.
4. Fuel valve/petcock not in the on or reserve position.
5. Vacuum line to fuel valve cracked, broken, pinched, or missing*
6. Fuel valve/petcock clogged or diaphragm cracked, cut or torn*
7. Fuel line from the fuel valve to the carburetor or fuel pump clogged, cracked, pinched, bent, broken, or missing.
8. Fuel pump not working*
9. Fuel line touching cylinder or head causing fuel to boil and vapor lock, repair by rerouting and wrapping line with convoluted tubing.
10. Carburetor inlet clogged.
11. Carburetor float or needle and seat stuck.
12. Carburetor not venting properly overflow line or bowl fitting clogged, pinched, or bent.
* If equipped or applicable.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day.
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1 Answer

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Hi, Natasha and the usual suspects are:
1. Idle port, transfer ports, slow air jet clogged.
2. Idle adjusting screw set too low.
3. Air fuel mixture adjustment too lean.
4. Pilot/slow fuel jet clogged.
5. Faulty accelerator pump.
6. Float level too low.
7. Float bowl contaminated old fuel, water, dirt, rust, etc.
8. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched.
9. Fuel line to carburetor kinked or pinched.
10. Fuel filter clogged.
11. Intake manifold leak.
12. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
13. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
14. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
15. Multi carburetors not in sync.
16. Faulty fuel pump or internal fuel line has pinholes.
17. Fuel injectors clogged or faulty.
18. Faulty throttle position sensor.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1 Answer

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Hi, Hamiltont1 and the usual suspects are:
1. Idle port, transfer ports, slow air jet clogged.
2. Idle adjusting screw set too low.
3. Air fuel mixture adjustment too lean.
4. Pilot/slow fuel jet clogged.
5. Faulty accelerator pump.
6. Float level too low.
7. Float bowl contaminated old fuel, water, dirt, rust, etc.
8. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched.
9. Fuel line to carburetor kinked or pinched.
10. Fuel filter clogged.
11. Intake manifold leak.
12. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
13. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
14. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
15. Multi carburetors not in sync.
16. Faulty fuel pump or internal fuel line has pinholes.
17. Fuel injectors clogged or faulty.
18. Faulty throttle position sensor.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hey Dave,
thought I answered this already,,,??? Classic "brass kit" symptom! >>> You need a "brass kit".. this is the needle jet and the jet needle in the center of the carb. The jet needle is the thin needle that hangs down from the center of the slide... The needle jet is the "hole" that the jet needle slides into...Remove the carb, take the bowl off, remove the main jet, the needle jet holder should be able to be gently tapped out, the needle jet is a short brasspiece,, it comes out through the hole where the slide goes,,, reinstall the NEW needle jet, needle jet holder...(it may have a groove in it for correct location). once its seated, you can reinstall the main jet..NOW >> to install a new jet needle,,, remove the slide from the carb.. remove the spring and seat from the slide that holds the needle jet in place.. NOTE which groove the clip is in on the old needle.... (should be the middle one). re install the new needle, reinstall everything else and your atv WILL run fine for a long time..This is a common problem on ATV's..
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1 Answer

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1. Idle port, transfer ports, slow air jet clogged.
2. Idle adjusting screw set too low.
3. Air fuel mixture adjustment too lean.
4. Pilot/slow fuel jet clogged.
5. Faulty accelerator pump.
6. Float level too low.
7. Float bowl contaminated old fuel, water, dirt, rust, etc.
8. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched.
9. Fuel line to carburetor kinked or pinched.
10. Fuel filter clogged.
11. Intake manifold leak.
12. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
13. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
14. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
15. Multi carburetors not in sync.
16. Faulty fuel pump or internal fuel line has pinholes.
17. Fuel injectors clogged or faulty.
18. Faulty throttle position sensor.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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