Question about 2008 KTM 450 EXC-R

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Tied bike down in ute without using a fork block. Checked bike today and found both forks had leaked oil. I think bike tied down on way home has caused the forks to leak? Have the seals gone? or have they just leaked under pressure? how much oil would i top them up with?

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It's possible you may have leaked some oil, but first things first, clean the heck out of them and ride it around again to see if you are STILL leaking oil. If you have to top them up, there's a few methods out there, one guy I knew used a meter stick to measure the oil in the forks, but if you are going to be in there, you might as well drain the oil and start over with the correct amount of fluid. I hope this helps a little. Good luck.

Bruno

Posted on Nov 08, 2010

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1 Answer

How do I refill my fork tubes with fork oil


Begin by loosening the upper triple-clamp pinch bolts and breaking the fork caps loose while the fork is still held by the lower triple clamp. You will need to remove the caps to refill the fork tubes with oil.
Determine if the fork legs have oil drain plugs near the bottom of the legs. If they do, you are in luck and will be able to change the oil without removing the fork legs. Put old newspapers on the floor under the front end. Place a drain pan under the fork legs and remove the drain plugs, one side at a time. Hold the front brake and push down on the fork several times to pump the oil out. When oil stops coming out, reinstall the plugs using new sealing washers.
Without Drain Plugs
If there are no drain plugs (look carefully), you'll need to remove the fork legs to drain the oil. At this point you can decide to have it done professionally or do the work yourself. We'll cover the main, basic steps. Refer to a shop manual to learn all the exact procedures involved. Some motorcycles may require fairings, handlebars, etc. to be removed.
Support the motorcycle either on the centerstand (if equipped) or by using a motorcycle jack under the engine. If you use the centerstand, you may need to place a sandbag on the rear of the seat, hold the front end up using straps from the rafters, or support the bike underneath the engine. Use tie-downs to steady the bike on the jack. Grasp the lower fork legs and try to push and pull the fork toward the back of the bike and forward to check for loose steering head bearings. Inspect the pleated rubber fork boots, if equipped. Check for signs of fork oil leakage and any grooves in the fork tube wear surfaces where the seals make contact. Also check for looseness between the fork legs and tubes that would indicate bushing wear.
Remove the front wheel and axle assembly. Support and tie the brake caliper(s) out of the way. Remove the front fender and speedometer cable, if equipped. With the fork leg fully extended, remove the top cap from a leg. Be prepared as there may be some spring pressure pushing against the cap.
Loosen and remove the pinch bolt from the lower triple clamp and lower the fork leg. Note any shims or washers and spring. Turn the leg upside down in a drain pan until oil stops flowing out. You may have to move the damping rod in and out to get the oil out. Repeat the procedure for the other side.
Reinstall the fork legs and other removed components in the reverse order of removal.
All Models
Add the exact amount and type of oil recommended by the manufacturer. Some motorcycles call for the use of a dipstick to determine how much oil to use instead of just pouring a certain amount of oil back in. Follow the manufacturer's shop manual recommendations.
Carefully install the threaded top caps by hand to avoid cross-threading. Tighten the pinch bolts and top caps to the factory-specified torques. After the brakes are installed, pump up the lever until the brakes feel normal again. Once the bike is assembled and on the floor, push down on the front end to verify the suspension's response. Turn the steering from its left to right limits to ensure nothing is binding, and check all controls including the throttle for proper operation.

Mar 05, 2016 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

How do i oil my front shock on the yamaha 180 scooter?


You don't oil your shock. The oil can be renewed. You have to remove both fork legs from you scooter.
Remove the top cap of each, turn them upside down and pump them dry.
you can find how much oil and which oil grades goes into them. It will be either an air gap measurement or an oil capacity.
if you fork leaked, replace the stanchion seals as we'll.
i wouldn't bother doing it if it doesn't give you trouble. Scooter forks can achieve high mileage without any oil change.
the only time I replace fork oil on any daily ride bike, is when they leaked and the seals are shot.
Franck

Sep 10, 2014 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

Keep having leaking fork seals.have replaced seals and oil after every ride lately.(4)have tried two brands of seals last time disasembled whole of forks cleaned every part,shims everything and had...


G'day. A couple of suggestions-
Damage to the fork slider-chips or dings.
Too much oil in the fork on re-assembly can cause the seal to go.
Worn or loose fork bushes will flog the seal prematurely.
When you transport the bike-if you don't use a seal saver can pop the seals.

So let me help with these.

Be sure that the fork slider is not scored,dinged or damaged on th surface.

A good double check of the oil quantity is to ensure that when you have re-filled the tube with oil & primed it(worked the air out of it), the oil level should be 100 to 110 mm from the top of the leg to the oil with the fork fully compressed. If the level is less than this-drop it to 100mm.

To check the fork bushes-try pull on the front forks front to back(wobble) & feel for looseness in the bushes.

And finally-When you transport the bike-put a chock(I use an empty 5ltr oil container-but you can buy propper chocks from the bike shop) in-between the forks at top of the front wheel .
Now when you pull the front end down it will stop on the chock & stop the front forks being under excessive compression for extended periods-so it saves the fork springs from sacking out too.
I hope this proves helpfull.
Kind regards Andrew Porrelli

May 20, 2011 | Sherco 5.1i Motorcycles

1 Answer

How to change CB250rsz front fork oil and oil seals?


hi its been quite a while since i have done 1 of these but if the bike has the original forks on it i am sure you can do this without removing the complete fork of the bike, after suporting your bike you can chose to completely remove the fork if you wish, i would first try it without removing the complete fork first, remove front wheel, remove front mudguard and inner stabilizer, keep all bolts together in a safe place, you will need a clean container, to catch the fork oil,(TIP) if you catch all the oil and alow time for it to drip dry you can measure the amount of oil that was in the fork by pouring it from the container into a measuring jug, this will save time if you dont know the specific amount of oil required, to drain the oil you will need a suitable alun key to undo the fork leg/tube securing bolt, you will find this in the lower of the fork leg where the wheel spindle fits, turn the key anti clockwise to undo it, hopefully it will crack loose, if it just spins and doesnt undo you may need air tools to shake it loose, once the bolt is undone secure the fork leg and remove the bolt, the oil will then desperse from the fork, moving the fork lower slowley up and down will help rifle the oil out, make sure the sealing washer is on the bolt or you may have to fish around inside the old oil for it, when you are happy all of the oil has been removed, carefuly pull the fork leg down all the way until it comes of the stanchion, pour any oil into your container, if when you pull on the leg it does not come off this will be because the fork stanchion on your bike has bushes that are fited to it, and not to the lower leg, in this case you will have to remove the whole fork, remove, the dust cover from the fork leg inside you will see a circlip remove this and washer, remove cap from fork top and pour out your oil, and fork spring noteing direction , remove the lower bolt, fix the fork lower in a vice at the very bottom of the leg wher the flat area is, do not grip tubular area,then to remove the seal you will need to push down on the fork stancion to its lowest point, and sharply pull up useing the stancion as a hammer, repeat this untill your fork seal is removed, replace in reverse order, good luck hope this helps. paul

Dec 12, 2010 | Honda CB 250 Nighthawk Motorcycles

1 Answer

Leak in front fork


This is the damping oil in the fork. Once it is all leaked out you will find it difficult to control the bike on bumpy roads. Get it checked ASAP. Repair is not very complicated since it requires replacement of the fork seals. I would recommend doing both forks at the same time. If one has failed the other is not far behind.

Jul 28, 2010 | 2008 Honda VT 750 Shadow

2 Answers

How do i change fork seals on a Kawasaki gt 550 89' and or chec and add oil


Hi,

I was told by many people it was a hard job.
I didn't think so.

What you need is:
New Seals.
8mm Allen Key.
Half Inch Stocket bar AND Extender.
Extra Fine Sand Paper/Polishing Device.
Fork Oil + Measuring Jug.
Threaded Bar with a Two 19mm Nuts Locked to each other on one end.
Spanners.
Screw Drivers.

How to do:

First Get the Front end off the Ground (ALOT, Center Stand on Bricks for extra height.)

Remove Front Wheel and Brake Calipers.

Open Drain Philips Screw on Base of Fork (Both Sides). Dont Lose Rubber washer under screw. Watch Out Also for Oil Being under Pressure.

Remove Nut from TOP of Fork (Alowing Handles and mirrors to come loose).

From Top you can see down tube has Nut/Cap with a Square Half Inch center. Use Socket Bar (and Extender if needed) without Bit to Remove reach in and remove. Watchout for Spring Pressure under the Cap/Nut.

Use Screw Driver or Hook of some kind to remove Preload Spacers, Washers AND Spring from Fork.

Slide your Threaded Bar with19mm Nuts (Make sure they are Locked Tight together at one end) down into the Fork and let it catch on the Oil Damper at the base. You will know when it's cought because you wont be able to spin the threaded bar anymore. This will stop the Damper from spinning while you undo the Allen Bolt at the very base under the fork (Outside).

Use Allen Key to remove Bolt from Underside of Fork While having someone or somthing hold the Threaded Bar form spinning.

Now look at the Old bust/leaking Oil Seal. There will be a Clip/Locking Spring in a Groove holding it in place.

Remove Clip without Damaging any part of clip or fork.

If Everything above was Done, you can now give the slider( Bottom Part) a big tug and it will all come lose.

One Part of the Oil damper will either fall off, or be left in the slider(Bottom Part). It slides over the Damper in the base of the tube.

Clean Everything.

Clean Again.

Polish Tube.

Clean Again.

Remove Two Split Washers from base of Tube and Copper Washer. Remove Old Oil Seal.

Place New Oil Seal on Gently.

Replace back on Copper washer, followed by two split washers.

Use Grease as a kind of glue to hold the part of damper that fell off back on.

Slide Slider back onto Tube.

Screw Allen Bolt back into base of slider as per originally was (Remeber to hold Threaded Bar if it starts spinning)

Push Gently new Oil Seal into Fork Slider for Snug Fit. Be Gental.

Replace Clip/Spring over top of Oil Seal Locking it in place.

Remove your threaded bar from top of Fork.

Replace Spring into Fork.

Replace Philips Oil Drain Screw into base of fork (Dont forget Rubber washer).

Now: For a GT550 (I am told also KZ550 but can confirm) you need 300ml of 15 weight Fork Oil. EACH Fork. So a Total of 600ml whole Job. IN EACH SIDE YOU WILL ADD ONLY 300ml of FORK OIL. (15w)

After this. Replace any washers, Preload Spacers and so back into for.

Replace Cap/Nut into Fork Tube with Socket Wrench and Extender.

Replace Handles and Moirrors and Nut holding both of these.

Replace back onto bike the Front Wheel

Check Brake Calipers for leaks and Pad Wear. It's Very Cheap to get new Pads. Not cheap to have months off work after a crash.

Replace back onto bike Calipers.

Pushing Bike (Not ride) test Brakes and Suspension.

At This point I am thinking your done. You may need to Add Air Preload into the Fork via the Air Valve. 4PSI is a Starting Point. I have run upto 15psi. Without Air in the Preload you may find it too soft. Upto you.


Did I Forget Anything?


Sep 11, 2009 | 1992 kawasaki GT 750

2 Answers

2001 yzf426 front fork leak


Each fork has an outer dust seal, and an inner seal inside of that. Dirt gets between the seal lip and the fork slider and causes the oil to escape. The fix is to have them (Both sides) replaced. You need a fork seal driver tool (Size specific for the size of the fork) and something to measure out the oil amount. It's not an easy job, if you have never done it. Also... if the oil has never been changed, it's due.

Aug 19, 2009 | 2001 Yamaha YZ 426 F

2 Answers

How can I tell if my Fork tubes take fork tube oil or are Air ride....I don't seem to see the normal drain plugs for the fork tubes.


Most forks take Automatic Transmission oil ("ATF").
Most new motorcycles don't have drain holes for it is almost impossible to remove all of the oil through such an opening.
If the forks aren't leaking and are working, don't disturb them. If they are leaking you will need to remove and service them. This should be only done by a shop or someone who knows how.

Jun 16, 2009 | 1998 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic...

2 Answers

2004 honda shadow 600 VLX leaking fork seal bike has 600 miles on it should I replace left and right if only right is leaking.


check first to see if the leaking fork has any rust pitting on the chrome,if it has and its a very small blemish then fettle it off first,and just replace the leaking seal,as the saying goes..if it aint broke dont fix it,if the seals had been in the forks for years and the bike not used then consider replacing both..

Jun 05, 2009 | 1986 Honda VT 1100 C

1 Answer

Vibration in handlebars/forks??


Hi,
Front end vibration can be caused by front rim/tire out of balance, worn wheel bearing(s), bent front rim, or fork misalignment.
Since you recently had fork work done, I would first check the forks for proper alignment, then have the bike on a stand and spin the wheel to see if there is wobbling. To check for bearing wear, while the front is off the ground, try to rock the wheel from side to side. If you can feel or see movement, you will need new bearings.
Hope this helps

Mar 17, 2009 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage...

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