Question about 2000 Harley Davidson FXSTS Springer Softail

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Hello, I'm changing rear break pads on my softail

Hello, I'm changing rear break pads on my softail springer 2004. When I loosen 3 hex bolds- the break fliud leaking out. How do I complete this task from here. thanks

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  • james lee Nov 09, 2010

    Dear wd4ity,
    Thanks for the tip. I simply want to replace the pads.
    Now, I have taken the 2 pins out. I assume that I dont have to remove the wheel off from the bike, but to sit the piston into the caliper and use a large screwdriver to pry off the old pads out.
    Please confirm if this is the way.
    Thanks again.

  • Anonymous Mar 18, 2014

    change rear break pads 2000 deuce



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I'm going to attach a photo to this solution. The bolts you are taking out hold the caliper together. You don't want to take these out to simply replace the pads. If you're rebuilding the caliper, you'll have to split the caliper to get the pistons out. But, just to replace the pads. You'll see two pins (#35 on the pic) that run across the between the two halves of the caliper. These pins hold the pads into the caliper.

First you must use a large screwdriver to pry the old pads apart. You must get the pistons seated fully down into the caliper. Once you get the pistons seated, drive these pins out to the rear of the caliper. Lift the pads out and drop the new pads in with the fiber side towards the rotor. Do not put the pads in with metal to metal. Don't laugh, i've seen it done before. Then install on pin, install the spring plate that holds the pins in and the brake pads tight, and finally the last pin.

Since you broke the torque on the bolts that hold the caliper together, make sure they are tight. You may have to bleed the brakes as well. Make sure you have a full firm brake pedal and test the brakes to make sure they work before riding the bike.

Hello, I'm changing rear break pads on my softail - wd4ity_0.gif

Posted on Nov 08, 2010

  • wd4ity
    wd4ity Nov 09, 2010

    Ok now that you've got the two pins and the "spring" out of the top, you have the two pads sitting in there on either side of the rotor. Take a screwdriver, I like to use a wide bladed one, and put pressure prying the pad away from the rotor. Don't haul down on it, just a bit of pressure and the pad will slowly move back away from the rotor. It will move slowly because the brake fluid has to bleed though a hole that isn't but 0.020" in diameter in the master cylinder. Once you have one pad back, leave the screwdriver in that one and pry the other pad back the same way. If you don't leave the screwdriver in the first one, the piston will come back out due to the pressure on the second pad. Remember, just a bit of pressure. Dont pry so hard that you're going to damage the rotor. Now, they do make a special tool for this but it's not necessary when a wide bladed screwdriver works fine. Just use some common sense and don't damage the rotor. Once you get the pads pried back, you can lift them straight out and install the new ones. If you don't pry the pistons back, the new pads will be too thick to go in because the piston is too far out. That's why we pry on the old pads, you don't want to damage the pistons either.

    Good Luck

  • james lee Nov 09, 2010

    Hello Steve.
    The new rear pads are now inplaced. I used metalic pads and 5 dot brake fluid. I still could not take the air out from the caliper housing using the similiar technic as in the automobil car brake system. I check and filled the brake fluild container. should I leave the top cap of the container open while doing the pressure/release brake pedal?.



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