Question about Harley Davidson FLHT Electra Glide Standard Motorcycles

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93 flhs. evo, bike just quit running. no spark at plugs, put in new plugs,wires and coil. still no spark. i have a crane H1-4 in timing cone. is that my problem. would like to be sure that is problem before spending $200 for new part HELP PLEASE TONY

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If your bike has been converted to a Crane ignition, all you have is the Crane unit, two spark plugs, two wires, and a coil. Seems you've replaced everything else so the unit is all that is left.

Now, before you replace the unit, you see there are two wires on the hot side of the coil. Make sure you have battery voltage to that side of the coil. A test, take your plugs out and lay one on the engine where you can see it. Turn your ignition switch on, then turn it off. You should see a single spark when you turn the switch off. If so, you're electrical wiring and coil are alright. Your unit is bad. If you don't get a spark, you are not getting voltage to the coil for some reason.

If you are not getting power to the coil, make sure the "Run/STOP" switch is in the right position. If it is, you'll need a schematic to trace the voltage back to the source. I have a schematic for a FXDWG. If you want a copy, send me a personal e-mail at and I'll send one to you. This forum will not allow for a file over 150Kb. Remind me of what you need.

Good Luck

Posted on Nov 08, 2010


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Rear cylinder blowing cold air out the exhaust on 1991 flhs with evo

Hi Anonymous, and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition or leaking.
3. Spark plug gap to close or to wide.
4. Faulty ignition coil, module and or sensor.
5. Battery nearly discharged.
6. Damaged wire or loose connections at battery terminals especially the negative cable at "BOTH" ends, ignition coil, or plug between ignition sensor and module.
7. Intermittent short circuit due to damaged wire insulation.
8. Water or dirt in fuel system, carburetor or filter.
9. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.
10. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
11. Damaged carburetor or intake seals.
12. Loose or dirty ignition module connector at crankcase.
13. Faulty MAP, CKP, and or CMP sensors.
14. Incorrect valve timing.
15. Weak or broken valve springs.
16. Damage intake or exhaust valve.
For a prime suspect please visit website below.
Good luck and have nice day.
Harley Davidson Wiring Diagrams and Schematics

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at

Oct 30, 2012 | Harley Davidson Motorcycles

1 Answer

Ignition problem,bike started missing , then went too the front cylinder shuting down ! ignition system is crane fireball hi-4e have replaced the modual,spark plugs, wires , pickup modual runs for a 30...

I had a simular problem i wedged a piece of wood beteween inside of cone & module this got me home I found this out when I pushed & wiggled the module. I replaced module in the end. You can eleminate the voes s/w if the mod was like mine .. id also post this ? on our forum good luck ps. check the wires coming out of cone all the way they plug into the bike harness I have seen them break in the plastic covering. sheth..

Jul 07, 2011 | Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage Softail...

1 Answer

Need wiring schematic for Crane Hi-4 dual fire elec system for H-D chopper. Unable to find diagram for this. all my online searches go nowhere

Try a look at . In the mean time and whilst it is loading, a few thoughts;

A lot of folks in the club know far more about Shovels than me.
But from my own observations and experiences....and asking around over the years. And now thatI have a points bike:

POINTS are good, can be reliable, but do wear out. the good news is that you will get warning, as components (weights etc) slowly disintegrate. Bike will start to run rough, hard to kick. Points are cheap, you can replace at side of road.

Those who religiously stick to points always use the ''side of the road'' argument. This seems mostly to stem from the late 1978 through the early 1980s when Harley first developed electronic ignitions. And frankly, their first efforts sucked, by general consensus. But since the advent of the Evo's V-Fire III version the factory and aftermarket ignitions have been fairly bulletproof for tens of thousands of miles.

CRANE Hi4 is but one of several aftermarket ignition systems that can retrofit into nosecone (or externally) on points-equipped or factory-ignition Evos and Shovels. Others like Daytona, Dyna, TwinTec, etc. I only know the Hi4, so....

The Crane has a switch that allows very easy kickstarting. When set thus, the plugs attempt to fire on the first turn of the flywheels, as opposed to the stock set-up which only fires after the flywheels turn a couple of times. That makes an Evo, for instance, very tough to kickstart if fitted with kicker and stock ignition.

With good plugs and even just static timed (there is an LED on the module that permits this), the Hi4 is brilliant. Worked so well on my 4spd Evo i actually removed all electric start parts 7-8 years ago.

There were a few issues on some early nosecone Hi4 modules that overheated, but I never that that prob.

After ten years and 50,000 miles, my first Hi4 failed 2-3 years ago. I got some help from the Crane tech line, and diagnosed it, put the results in Tech Tips on this site.

The replacement took 20min to fix, i just put it in the same (timing) spot as the first one, and bike kicked up 2nd attempt.

The absolute beauty of the Crane Hi4 is set and FORGET. Until it did die, i never even had to open the points cover. It always kickstarted, unless other factors weighed in.

My Wide Glide has points, but I am just about to pull them for a Hi4.

The guys at the one Shovel bazaar here in Melbourne endlessly recommend fitting a Hi4. They all have them in their own bikes, and when asked their opinion of points they say: ''comparatively? ****. There is no need to run points these days.''

Everyone has an opinion on this of course. But I am going for total peace of mind. I'll no doubt be on the roadside due to something else on the Shovel some day, so i may as well eliminate potential problems......

Mar 31, 2011 | Harley Davidson FXSTS - FXSTSI Springer...

1 Answer

Soo,my 79 sporty with an 86 evo 1100,running great.2 weeks ago,pulled in on a bike ride about 3 hrs and rolling down a hill,just running again and ran for the entire

Turn your ignition switch on, using a test light or volt meter, see if you have power to the coil. If you do, you should have power to your ignition unit. According to the wiring instructions from Crane, the power for the unit comes from the same wire as the power to your coil. The trigger wire goes to the other side of the coil. Then there's a wire for the VOES but this would not have anything to do with the unit functioning or not.

If you wish to test the "Run/Stop" switch, with the test light or voltmeter on the coil, and the switch in "Run", you should have power to the coil. Fllip the "Run/Stop" switch to "Stop", the voltage goes away. Some bikes will allow the engine to turn over with the switch in "Stop" position or if the switch is defective. On some bikes, the switch does not disable the starter.

Now, check your coil. Using the DVOM (digitial volt ohm meter), disconnect the wires on both sides of the coil. Put the meter in OHMS, R X 1 postition. Put one lead on each small terminal of the coil. Your meter should read between 2 and 3 ohms, with 2.7 being a typical reading. If it reads more or less than that, the coil is probably bad.

In the event you don't have a meter, there's a simplier way to test it. Leave the "HOT" side of the coil connected but disconnect the red wire from the ignition unit. Disconnect all the wires from the other side. Now, make up a jumper wire and connect it to the negative side of the coil. Turn the ignition on and MOMENTARILY ground it on the engine. When you take the wire loose from the ground, you should see a spark at the spark plugs.

I hope this helps.

Good Luck

Aug 20, 2010 | Harley Davidson XLH 1000 Sportster...

1 Answer

A 93 flhs loosing charge in less than 2 hour

sounds like your battery is not charging from the engine. Most likely the cause of this is, a faulty Rectifier.
I suggest you charge your battery up, put it in the bike and start it up. Using a Volt meter, check the reading, to see if charge is going into the battery, reading should be about 14V with a little rev of the engine. If the reading remains at 12V, then ther is no charge going in.
If you have charge going in to your battery at idle, 13.5 - 14Volts,
Then i suggest your battery is faulty.

Jul 08, 2010 | 2003 Harley Davidson FLHTC Electra Glide...

1 Answer

I recently rebuilt the topend on my son's 01 kx 100 new cylinder and all. The bike runs great at low to mid rpm but when up in the topend range of the power band it looses all power and runs very rough! My...

I'd bet you 10 to 1 it's not the coil. It sounds like it is starving for fuel and needs a carburetor adjustment. When you rebuilt the top end, did you put a bigger jug and piston? If so, your problem most definitely is the carburetor needs to be re-jetted.

What caused you to rebuild it? Did it seize, or quit running? Was it losing power before the rebuild?

That's where my money is but if you still believe it is the coil, you can check it with a spark checker. This is a handy little tool you can find at AutoZone, Harbor Freight, etc. It's a one piece tool that connects between the plug and the coil. The plug stays in but you remove the wire and put the checker on, one side connects to the plug, the other side you connect the plug wire. There is a light in the middle that will flicker when you crank the engine if it has a good coil.

Put the checker on and start the bike and see if you are losing spark...if the light stops flickering at top end, then you do have a coil issue...but like I said before, having seen this problem hundreds of times, my money will be on re-jetting the carburetor.

Nov 08, 2009 | 2001 kawasaki KMX 125

1 Answer

95 sporster speedometer

The timing of the plug change is probly chance Your speedo is a cable run from your front axle spacer between fork tube and Bering a spark plug or a wire could only put out the speedo light not affect the speed sensors caus there isn't one one a 95 sporty I only know cause I took off every thing on my chopper but headlamp tail lamp and starter switch and I had to make a custom spacer to take the place of my speed sensor slash Bering after I ditched my dash years ago on my 93 evo sporty

Jan 22, 2009 | 1993 Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883

3 Answers

Rear cylinder not firing

The first thing I would do is replace the spark plugs again. You can foul a plug and it will cause you more problems than you can ever imagine. I see you have done all the logical things that I would recommend but I did not see you have replaced the plugs after the 200 miles. You would be surprised at how many times a $2.00 part can cause fits beyond belief.

Dec 07, 2008 | 2000 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster...

2 Answers

I have a 1984 Harley Davidson FXRS. I have a single fire crane hi 4 ignition system. It ran flawlessly for a few years and now the bike missed a few time then quit entirely. Now have no spark and would...

There's no real way to check the coil, it either works or it doesn't. I've found that with my Harley's when I lose spark it's generally a bad wire or loose connection. If the wires/connections are good, then it's either the coil or the ignition module. I'd say with the newer Crane on it, that the problem is going to be with the coil. Check the voltage from the ignition module going into the coil. I'm not exact on the voltage, but as long as you have a good strong current getting to the coil, and low to nothing on the plug wire side, then the coil is bad.

Aug 03, 2008 | Harley Davidson Harley-Davidson Motorcycle...

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