Question about 2002 Cannondale X 440 S

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I need fork seals.. what part number or OD and ID are they?

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  • Cannondale Master
  • 39,940 Answers

Hi, Rypenick for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry. If necessary, transport your bike to the dealer or shop and have a professional technician take it for a test drive, if it is in running condition, and give you a written estimate of repairs and answer any specific questions you may have about your problem. For more information about your issue and free downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.cannondaler.com/manuals.php
http://www.cannondaler.com/files/cdale/manuals/mc/X440s%20parts.pdf
Cannondale Parts
http://www.blackwidow-ok.com/om
Cannondale 440 2002 technical specifications

Posted on Jan 31, 2016

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

burgessjay69
  • 78 Answers

SOURCE: front fork seals need replacing Honda vigor FX650

hi non usd forks are ok thers a allen key bolt at the bottom of the fork leg would be wish to change the fork guilds too thr fork seals can be prized out with a screwdirver carfully

Posted on Jun 25, 2009

  • 53 Answers

SOURCE: front fork leaking oil from bottom of the seal.

change the oil seals and oil in the fork,and avoid wheelies on the bike and off road biking 

Posted on May 17, 2009

  • 72 Answers

SOURCE: fork seals on 2003 Kawasaki Z1000 need changing - how ???

First, go buy amanual ,clymer or haynes shop manual from a dealer or sent a from J&P CYCLE or from DENNIS KIRK , then when you got to work on it you will have somethnig to go by, and not trying to guest if your doing it right. J&P-1 800-318-6847, DENNIS KIRK-1-800-969-7504, and tell them what you need.

Posted on Mar 26, 2009

polarcycle
  • 1392 Answers

SOURCE: gsxf 600 fork seals are leaking

Get a manual as you will be in over your head if you haven't done one before, and it will have all the steps in there to do it. There are a bunch of parts in the lower leg of the fork. If you want a better set up then you have, I would look at replacing them with some 89-97 model forks as they are adjustable, and our 88 models are not.

Posted on Jul 25, 2009

pugwash814
  • 377 Answers

SOURCE: What size fork seals do I need for a 2000 ZX6R

http://vitek.vellum.cz/manualy/Kawasaki%20Ninja%20ZX-6R%2000-02%20Service%20manual.pdf

its not quite the easy process it used to be here is the shop manual for you to use,

10w oil
oil level 116mm no spring !

Posted on Nov 04, 2009

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Oct 16, 2014 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

How do i rebuild 41mm forks


Depends on how much rebuilding you want to do.
See below:

FRONT FORK 2.16
CHANGING FORK OIL On a 2010 Touring Motorcycle 41 mm Fork
If only replacing the fork oil remove the for, clamp a fork holder tool in a vise in a horizontal position and with the fork cap bolt topside securely clamp the fork into the tool, remove the fork cap bolt, remove and discard the quad ring seal, carefully remove the fork tube plug from the fork tube and because it is under strong spring pressure have and maintain a firm grasp on the plug as the last thread is turned because it will want to fly upwards under the spring pressure, remove and discard the O-ring fork tube plug o-ring, remove the fork spring from the fork tube, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool, being aware that the damper valve if one is installed (All touring models, with the exception of Road King, have a damper valve type fork on both the left and right sides. Road King uses the conventional type fork on both sides.) will fall out when the fork tube is inverted for draining turn the fork upside down and drain the fork oil into a suitable drain pan while slowly pumping the fork tube and slider at least ten times and then allow about 10-15 minutes for the fork assembly to completely drain. THEN with the fork tube right-side-up securely clamp the fork slider (not the fork tube) into the fork tube holder, install the drain plug at the bottom of the fork slider, if it had been removed and tighten the plug to 72-96 in-lbs (8-11 Nm).

MODEL FORK TYPE AMOUNT
OZ. ML IN. MM
All models Damper Valve 10.7 317 4.92 125
Except FLHR/C
FLHR/C Conventional 11.0 325 4.92 125

Pour slightly more Harley-Davidson Type E Fork Oil directly into the fork tube than is specified for the fork type, slowly pump the fork tube until some resistance is felt and then pump a few more times and then for all models except FLHR/C (i.e. for damper valve type forks), install a new wear ring in its groove in the damper valve, with the wear ring at the bottom (spring side up) slide the damper valve into the fork tube, install the fork spring into the fork tube, use the fork spring to push the damper valve to the bottom of the fork tube, remove the fork spring from the fork tube, slowly pump the fork tube a few more times to eliminate air from the damper valve, adjust the ring of a fork level gauge 4.92 inches or 125mm and then with the fork tube bottomed in the fork slider insert the tube of the gauge into the fork slider until the metal ring rests flat on the top of the fork tube and use the gauge plunger to draw oil from fork (if no oil is drawn out, add a small amount to the fork tube and repeat the process) until the oil level is at the specified level in the fork slider, install the fork spring into the fork tube with the tighter wound coils at the bottom, remove the fork slider from the fork tube holder tool, clamp fork tube into the fork tube holder tool, install a newO-ring onto the fork tube plug, install the fork tube plug into the fork tube and tighten it to 60-70 ft-lbs (81.4-94.9 Nm), install a newquad ring seal onto the fork cap bolt and install it into the fork tube plug to prevent loss of fork oil while working further with it. THEN on right side fork, loosely install the axle holder with its flat
washers, lockwashers and nuts, install the fork and assemble the motorcycle.

To remove a 2010 Touring 41 mm fork assembly FIRSTraise the front wheel, remove the front wheel, remove the front fender, and for FLHR/C remove the headlamp nacelle. And for FLHX, FLHT/C/U, FLHTK remove inner fairing cap, and for FLTRX remove the instrument nacelle, loosen the fork cap bolt, but do not
remove it at this time, loosen the pinch bolt but do not remove it, hold the fork slider to prevent the fork from dropping, remove the fork cap bolt from the fork tube plug, slide the fork tube down to remove. And loosely install the fork cap bolt to prevent loss of fork oil while working with the fork.

DISASSEMBLY
To disassemble a 2010 Touring 41mm fork assembly FIRST remove the fork assembly, the right side fork remove the axle holder from the end of the fork slider, drain the fork, install the fork spring into the fork tube, place a shop cloth or towel on the floor, turn the fork assembly upside down, press the end of the spring against the shop cloth or towel to prevent rotation of the damper tube and remove the metric screw from the end of the fork slider with an air impact wrench, discard the screw and copper washer, remove the fork spring, the damper valve (if equipped) and the damper tube from the fork tube, remove the wear ring and rebound spring from the damper tube, remove the wear ring from the damper valve, (if equipped), remove the retaining clip using an appropriate pick tool, remove the fork tube from the fork slider by using the fork tube as a slide hammer tool, slide the fork oil seal, the slider spacer and the slider bushing off from the end of the fork tube, discard the fork oil seal and the slider bushing, gently pry at the split line to expand the fork leg bushing and remove it from its groove at the end of the fork tube, discard the fork leg bushing and remove the lower stop from fork the slider.

CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Thoroughly clean and inspect all parts and replace any parts that are corroded, bent, inoperative or otherwise obviously damaged, inspect the fork cap bolt quad ring seal and the fork tube plug o-ring for cuts, tears or signs of deterioration and replace if and as necessary, replace the retaining clip if is bent or distorted, check the slider and the fork leg bushings for scratches or excessive wear and always replace bushings in a set if either bushing needs to be replaced, check both the fork tube and the fork slider for scoring, scratches and excessive or abnormal wear and replace parts if and as required, set the fork tube on V-blocks and measure its runout using a dial indicator gauge and replace it if the runout exceeds 0.008 in. (0.2 mm), inspect the upper fork spring and the rebound spring for damage or distortion, and replace the upper fork spring if its free length is less than19.27 in. (489.4 mm) for Non-Fairing Models and 18.73 in. (475.7 mm) for Fairing Models and replace the rebound spring if its free length is less than 0.938 in. (23.8 mm) or any time the upper fork spring is replaced.

ASSEMBLY
To assemble a 2010 Touring 41 mm fork assembly FIRST coat the ID of the fork leg bushing with clean fork oil, expand the fork leg bushing at the split line only enough to slip it over the end of the fork tube and into its groove on the fork tube, install a newwear ring into the groove at the top of the damper tube, install the rebound spring on the opposite end, with the wear ring topside slide the damper tube into the fork tube so that the tube end drops through the hole at the bottom of the fork tube, install the lower stop at the end of the damper tube, install the fork slider into the fork tube holder tool, slide the fork tube into the fork slider, coat the ID of the slider bushing with clean fork oil, slide the slider bushing down the fork tube, slide a 41 mm fork seal installer tool down the fork tube and using the it as a slide hammer drive the slider bushing into the counterbore of the fork slider, then remove the tool, place masking tape over edge of the fork tube to avoid damaging the lip of the fork oil seal during installation, coat the ID ofa new fork oil seal with clean new fork oil, then with the lip garter spring side facing down toward the fork slider slide the seal down the fork tube until it contacts the slider spacer, remove the masking tape from the edge of the fork tube and using the 41 mm fork seal installer tool as a slide hammer, drive the fork oil seal down the fork tube until the retaining clip groove is visible above the seal in the ID of the fork slider, remove the tool, install the retaining clip in the groove, install the fork spring into fork the fork tube, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool, place a shop cloth or towel on the floor, turn the fork assembly upside down and press the end of the spring against the shop cloth or towel to prevent rotation of the damper tube, install a new screw and a new copper washer at the bottom of the fork slider and while compressing the spring tighten the screw to 132-216 in lbs(14.9-24.4 Nm), remove the fork spring from the fork tube, fill the fork with fork oil to the specified amount and complete assembly of the fork. On the right side fork, loosely install the axle holder with its flat
washers, lockwashers and nuts.

INSTALLATION
To install a 2010 Touring 41 mm fork assembly FIRST remove the fork cap bolt, slide the fork tube up and into the slider cover, lower the fork bracket, the fork stop, and the upper fork bracket, install the fork cap bolt, install the pinch bolt and lockwasher into the lower fork bracket and tighten the pinch bolt to 53-57 ft-lbs(71.9-77.3 Nm), tighten the fork cap bolt to 60-70 ft-lbs (81.4-94.9 Nm) and repeat these steps on the other fork, install the front fender and wheel, and for FLHR/C install the headlamp nacelle, for FLHX, FLHT/C/U, FLHTK install the fairing inner cap and for FLTRX install the instrument nacelle.

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1 Answer

The front supension on my bike barley moves really stiff but yet bike is in a good condition


Hi paul..sounds to me you have to much fork oil in the forks mate.or you have the wrong grade oil in the fork legs...or if u have air valves on top of your fork stems.theyve been pumped up to much.but that would blow your seals..1st off.id drain the fork oil out .then replace with the correct grade oil.and oil level in each fork leg.

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1 Answer

Rear wheel seal is leaking. They call for 2 different seals, one has the right OD but the wrong ID. Other has the right ID but wrong OD. 6.5 diesel Is this a special rearend.


IF you have a fully floating hub ( one where you remove the axle to get to the hub nut to remove the hub) there will be only one seal inside the hub If you have a semi floating axle( where you have to remove the brake gear and backing plate to remove the axle then the seal is inside the axle housing inside the bearing. Best remove the hub /axle and take the seal to a bearing supply outlet and they will match the seal to your sample.

PLEASE RATE THIS REPLY FOR ACCURACY

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1 Answer

I am rebuilding a 1972 yamaha xs2, the forks are rusted and need replacing. Can you tell me what size the tubes are?


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regards robotek

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2 Answers

Replacing the front seal- located on the fork.


To replace the fork seal you must open the top of the fork and remove the spring. Then drop the fork tube out of the clamp. Once the fork tube is removed replacing the seal is simply pulling the old one off and putting the new one on. You will need to remove your front wheel.

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1 Answer

1984 s10 sound


Pipes are usually measured by what is known as ID and OD. ID simply stands for inside diameter while OD stands for outside diameter. If the pipe you have going to the converter is 2 1/4 OD you would need the converter to have a 2 1/4 ID in order for the pipe to fit properly inside and to assure good sealing with a 2 1/4 clamp. Or welding is always an option...either way same rules apply.

Feb 20, 2009 | 1984 Chevrolet S-10

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