Rattle in front end since 20000 miles, now 99000 miles top of struts are tight, tie rods seem tight . What else could it be? Happens on bumps.

go to a garage

Check all the bushings and make sure they are not loose. General Motors bushings are prone to cracking.

Why would you waste money on springs?

They won't make a noise or ever need replacing

Find the cause of the issue that bothers you first

Tie rod end don't make noise

I would think exhaust converter shield or any part of the
exhaust system that is rusted, would vibrate

Any vacuum hoses or parking cables ,could make a noise,
if hitting the floor pan or other parts of the car

Top shock bushings that are completely gone, rattle

Top Strut Bearing Plates on top of front struts make noise

Stabilizer Bushings may need replacing

Body Mount Bushings front or rear,if that was what was
changed so far

Check the tie rod end for to much movement...(wiggle) This is a common wear item that rattles when under stress...You will need an alignment after the switch out...the part including labor at many shops is about $95. Hope this helps.

Vehicle is still under US warranty - Take to Authorized Hyundai Service Department & have it diagnosed/repaired under warranty (was this vehicle in an accident?... if so, contact Insurance agent for proper instructions).

check your break pads, and calipa. check your wheel balancing and alignment

It could be several things.

1. Strut is worn and the rod is rattling.
2. The ball joint or control arm are worn. A new control arm comes with the ball joint and a new bushing.
3. The inner and/or tie rod end is worn, allowing the wheel to rattle.

Raise the car and support it. Twist the wheel back and forth while observing the tie rod. Look for play in the inner and outer connections. If this is ok, place a pry bar under the tire and lift up while observing the ball joint and control arm. You should not see any play. Look at the strut. Look for oil on the housing. Look for play in the rod or a loose connection.

You should check your front end, ball joints and tie rod ends for play. To do that jack the car up and set in on blocks so the front wheel hangs free. Grab the tire at 12 o'clock and 6 and try to move it in and out. If the wheel moves you have a bad ball joint, a helper to watch while you move the wheel will tell you upper or lower. Do the same at 9 and 3 to check tie rod ends. Again movement will indicate a bad tie rod. Check for inner or outer. Look at your shocks for signs of leakage. Aleaky shock could also make a clunk.
If everything appears to be tight then remove a wheel and look at your brakes, A loose caliper, pads flopping. Pads should only move in and out to the rotor and the caliper shouldn't move by hand. Hope this helps.

Check your suspension bar and check your front strut assembly, jack up the side you here the noise on and pry against the tire to see if you have any movement between the strut housing and the frame, make sure the top strut nuts are tight, if they are next check tie rod ends to see if you have any play, next pull the wheel from the top and bottom to see if it's loose if it is watch while someone else wiggles the tire, you could have a tie rod loose or a king pin loose. Also it could be a wheel-bearing nut. Let me know what you find so I can tell you how to replace it.

Ford has a technical service bulletin out on this vehicle that may help solve your problem. The number is 04-6-1.
Here is the info:

ISSUE: Some 2000-2004 Focus vehicles may exhibit a front end creaking, crunching, grinding and/or rattling noise from the front suspension while driving at slow speeds, over bumps, and/or while turning.
ACTION: Noise, vibration, harness (NVH) conditions may originate from many areas. A thorough inspection of the front suspension is necessary to determine the cause. To service, refer to the following Service Procedure and inspect the suggested areas first.
SERVICE PROCEDURE

1. Inspect front strut fasteners and confirm that they are tightened to the correct torque.
   1. Front strut to front knuckle, (one (1) driver / one (1) passenger), 90 N-m (67 lb-ft).
   2. Front strut mount to body, (three (3) driver / three (3) passenger), 30 N-m (22 lb-ft).
   3. Front strut rod to strut mount, (one (1) driver / one (1) passenger), 66 N-m (49 lb-ft). NOTE: MEASUREMENT OF TORQUE MUST BE DONE IN THE TIGHTENING DIRECTION. NOTE: IN ORDER TO APPLY THE PROPER TORQUE TO THE FRONT STRUT ROD TO STRUT MOUNT FASTENER, A HEX KEY WILL BE REQUIRED TO HOLD THE STRUT ROD IN PLACE WHILE TIGHTENING THE NUT.
      
2. Inspect for loose stabilizer bar end links.
   1. Firmly grasp the links and shake them - both along the direction of the link and transverse to the link orientation in the inboard/outboard vehicle direction. If looseness is felt continue on to Step 2b, if no looseness is felt continue on to Step 3.
   2. Inspect the link end joints. If they do not appear severely corroded, torque the nuts (use anti-rotation feature to prevent ball joint damage) to 50 N-m (36 lb-ft), and repeat Step 2a. If links still feel loose after tightening or if the joint shows evidence of severe corrosion, replace the link (YS4Z-5K484-AA).
3. Inspect for the top spring sleeve coming out of position. This may cause a squeaking noise between the sleeve and indent on the ridge of the upper spring seat, or it may cause a clicking noise between the spring and upper spring seat if the sleeve is completely out of position. If the sleeve is out of position continue on to Step 3a, if the sleeve is positioned properly continue on to Step 4.
   1. Install a new rubber sleeve (1S4Z-8484-AA). Install the new rubber sleeve starting from the top of the spring coil where it contacts the spring plate.
4. If the noise is a clicking or popping from the front strut, install a service spring end cap (4S4Z-5L302-AA) on to the top spring tip. Reassemble and reinstall strut per the Workshop Manual Section 204-01.