Get front fork spring out or off fork assembly

Depends on how much rebuilding you want to do.
See below:

FRONT FORK 2.16
CHANGING FORK OIL On a 2010 Touring Motorcycle 41 mm Fork
If only replacing the fork oil remove the for, clamp a fork holder tool in a vise in a horizontal position and with the fork cap bolt topside securely clamp the fork into the tool, remove the fork cap bolt, remove and discard the quad ring seal, carefully remove the fork tube plug from the fork tube and because it is under strong spring pressure have and maintain a firm grasp on the plug as the last thread is turned because it will want to fly upwards under the spring pressure, remove and discard the O-ring fork tube plug o-ring, remove the fork spring from the fork tube, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool, being aware that the damper valve if one is installed (All touring models, with the exception of Road King, have a damper valve type fork on both the left and right sides. Road King uses the conventional type fork on both sides.) will fall out when the fork tube is inverted for draining turn the fork upside down and drain the fork oil into a suitable drain pan while slowly pumping the fork tube and slider at least ten times and then allow about 10-15 minutes for the fork assembly to completely drain. THEN with the fork tube right-side-up securely clamp the fork slider (not the fork tube) into the fork tube holder, install the drain plug at the bottom of the fork slider, if it had been removed and tighten the plug to 72-96 in-lbs (8-11 Nm).

MODEL FORK TYPE AMOUNT
OZ. ML IN. MM
All models Damper Valve 10.7 317 4.92 125
Except FLHR/C
FLHR/C Conventional 11.0 325 4.92 125

Pour slightly more Harley-Davidson Type E Fork Oil directly into the fork tube than is specified for the fork type, slowly pump the fork tube until some resistance is felt and then pump a few more times and then for all models except FLHR/C (i.e. for damper valve type forks), install a new wear ring in its groove in the damper valve, with the wear ring at the bottom (spring side up) slide the damper valve into the fork tube, install the fork spring into the fork tube, use the fork spring to push the damper valve to the bottom of the fork tube, remove the fork spring from the fork tube, slowly pump the fork tube a few more times to eliminate air from the damper valve, adjust the ring of a fork level gauge 4.92 inches or 125mm and then with the fork tube bottomed in the fork slider insert the tube of the gauge into the fork slider until the metal ring rests flat on the top of the fork tube and use the gauge plunger to draw oil from fork (if no oil is drawn out, add a small amount to the fork tube and repeat the process) until the oil level is at the specified level in the fork slider, install the fork spring into the fork tube with the tighter wound coils at the bottom, remove the fork slider from the fork tube holder tool, clamp fork tube into the fork tube holder tool, install a newO-ring onto the fork tube plug, install the fork tube plug into the fork tube and tighten it to 60-70 ft-lbs (81.4-94.9 Nm), install a newquad ring seal onto the fork cap bolt and install it into the fork tube plug to prevent loss of fork oil while working further with it. THEN on right side fork, loosely install the axle holder with its flat
washers, lockwashers and nuts, install the fork and assemble the motorcycle.

To remove a 2010 Touring 41 mm fork assembly FIRSTraise the front wheel, remove the front wheel, remove the front fender, and for FLHR/C remove the headlamp nacelle. And for FLHX, FLHT/C/U, FLHTK remove inner fairing cap, and for FLTRX remove the instrument nacelle, loosen the fork cap bolt, but do not
remove it at this time, loosen the pinch bolt but do not remove it, hold the fork slider to prevent the fork from dropping, remove the fork cap bolt from the fork tube plug, slide the fork tube down to remove. And loosely install the fork cap bolt to prevent loss of fork oil while working with the fork.

DISASSEMBLY
To disassemble a 2010 Touring 41mm fork assembly FIRST remove the fork assembly, the right side fork remove the axle holder from the end of the fork slider, drain the fork, install the fork spring into the fork tube, place a shop cloth or towel on the floor, turn the fork assembly upside down, press the end of the spring against the shop cloth or towel to prevent rotation of the damper tube and remove the metric screw from the end of the fork slider with an air impact wrench, discard the screw and copper washer, remove the fork spring, the damper valve (if equipped) and the damper tube from the fork tube, remove the wear ring and rebound spring from the damper tube, remove the wear ring from the damper valve, (if equipped), remove the retaining clip using an appropriate pick tool, remove the fork tube from the fork slider by using the fork tube as a slide hammer tool, slide the fork oil seal, the slider spacer and the slider bushing off from the end of the fork tube, discard the fork oil seal and the slider bushing, gently pry at the split line to expand the fork leg bushing and remove it from its groove at the end of the fork tube, discard the fork leg bushing and remove the lower stop from fork the slider.

CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Thoroughly clean and inspect all parts and replace any parts that are corroded, bent, inoperative or otherwise obviously damaged, inspect the fork cap bolt quad ring seal and the fork tube plug o-ring for cuts, tears or signs of deterioration and replace if and as necessary, replace the retaining clip if is bent or distorted, check the slider and the fork leg bushings for scratches or excessive wear and always replace bushings in a set if either bushing needs to be replaced, check both the fork tube and the fork slider for scoring, scratches and excessive or abnormal wear and replace parts if and as required, set the fork tube on V-blocks and measure its runout using a dial indicator gauge and replace it if the runout exceeds 0.008 in. (0.2 mm), inspect the upper fork spring and the rebound spring for damage or distortion, and replace the upper fork spring if its free length is less than19.27 in. (489.4 mm) for Non-Fairing Models and 18.73 in. (475.7 mm) for Fairing Models and replace the rebound spring if its free length is less than 0.938 in. (23.8 mm) or any time the upper fork spring is replaced.

ASSEMBLY
To assemble a 2010 Touring 41 mm fork assembly FIRST coat the ID of the fork leg bushing with clean fork oil, expand the fork leg bushing at the split line only enough to slip it over the end of the fork tube and into its groove on the fork tube, install a newwear ring into the groove at the top of the damper tube, install the rebound spring on the opposite end, with the wear ring topside slide the damper tube into the fork tube so that the tube end drops through the hole at the bottom of the fork tube, install the lower stop at the end of the damper tube, install the fork slider into the fork tube holder tool, slide the fork tube into the fork slider, coat the ID of the slider bushing with clean fork oil, slide the slider bushing down the fork tube, slide a 41 mm fork seal installer tool down the fork tube and using the it as a slide hammer drive the slider bushing into the counterbore of the fork slider, then remove the tool, place masking tape over edge of the fork tube to avoid damaging the lip of the fork oil seal during installation, coat the ID ofa new fork oil seal with clean new fork oil, then with the lip garter spring side facing down toward the fork slider slide the seal down the fork tube until it contacts the slider spacer, remove the masking tape from the edge of the fork tube and using the 41 mm fork seal installer tool as a slide hammer, drive the fork oil seal down the fork tube until the retaining clip groove is visible above the seal in the ID of the fork slider, remove the tool, install the retaining clip in the groove, install the fork spring into fork the fork tube, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool, place a shop cloth or towel on the floor, turn the fork assembly upside down and press the end of the spring against the shop cloth or towel to prevent rotation of the damper tube, install a new screw and a new copper washer at the bottom of the fork slider and while compressing the spring tighten the screw to 132-216 in lbs(14.9-24.4 Nm), remove the fork spring from the fork tube, fill the fork with fork oil to the specified amount and complete assembly of the fork. On the right side fork, loosely install the axle holder with its flat
washers, lockwashers and nuts.

INSTALLATION
To install a 2010 Touring 41 mm fork assembly FIRST remove the fork cap bolt, slide the fork tube up and into the slider cover, lower the fork bracket, the fork stop, and the upper fork bracket, install the fork cap bolt, install the pinch bolt and lockwasher into the lower fork bracket and tighten the pinch bolt to 53-57 ft-lbs(71.9-77.3 Nm), tighten the fork cap bolt to 60-70 ft-lbs (81.4-94.9 Nm) and repeat these steps on the other fork, install the front fender and wheel, and for FLHR/C install the headlamp nacelle, for FLHX, FLHT/C/U, FLHTK install the fairing inner cap and for FLTRX install the instrument nacelle.

To change the oil or to rebuild a 2007 DYNA front fork FIRST raise and support the motorcycle so that the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, remove the brake caliper and the front wheel, remove the front fender, loosen the pinch bolt screws, do not remove the tube caps, slide the fork sides downward clear of the fork brackets, repeat the procedure for the opposite fork tube and slider assembly.

To disassemble a 2007 DYNA front fork clamp the fork tube and slider assembly in a fork tube holder tool mounted horizontally in a vise, use a 12mm Allen wrench is needed to loosen but do not remove the seat pipe screw, while the internal components are still under tension and less prone to rotate, on the right fork tube and slider assembly, remove the axle holder to access the seat pipe screw, remove the fork tube cap and its o-ring, remove the long spring collar, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool and invert it over a suitable container to catch the fork oil and allowing thefork to drain, extend and retract the slider several times to push oil out of the internal fork components, the washer, and the spring will fall out of fork tube. THEN clamp the fork tube in the fork tube holder tool, remove the slider cover from the slider by inserting a brass drift into the notch in the slider and lightly tapping the cover loose, compress the stopper ring and remove the stopper ring from the groove in the top of the slider bore, Do not remove slider tube caps without relieving the spring preload or the caps and springs may fly out. THEN remove the seat pipe screw and its washer from the bottom of the slider and retain them for reuse, withdraw the slider from the fork tube until the bushing guide contacts the bushing on the fork tube (the bushing guide is a slight interference fit in the slider), then using the slider as a slide hammer, hit the bushing with the bushing guide with a quick continuous stroke until the slider is pulled free from the fork tube, drain the slider and allow the stop oil lock piece to fall free. (If you are only changing the oil or replacing the slider the remaining parts can be left assembled and the fork re-assembled) If it is still attached to the seat pipe remove the stop oil lock piece from the lower end of the seat pipe, remove the seat pipe piston and the ring assembly, remove the rebound spring, remove the oil seal, remove the seal spacer, and remove the bushing guide. Repeat the foregoing procedure for the opposite fork tube and slider assembly.

Thoroughly clean and inspect each part and if and as necessary replace any corroded, worn, bent, broken or otherwise damaged parts, inspect the fork tube bushing and the slider guide bushing and replace if and as required, always replace all oil seals and all o-rings, check the dust cover where it rubs on the fork tube (it should have a good and continuous seal and not show excessive wear, check the fork tube where it rubs on dust the cover and the tube should show a bright, shiny surface, free of scoring or abrasions, if any spring(s) is/are broken they must be replaced, if a fork tube or slider is bent or damaged it must also be replaced now, replace all other worn or damaged components if and as necessary.

To assemble a 2007 DYNA fork FIRST insert the seat pipe assembly with the spring into the slider tube, slide the bushing guide down to the bushing on the fork tube, follow it with the spacer, the oil seal, the stopper ring, the dust shield and the slider cover, install the fork tube into the fork tube holder tool, fit the lower stop onto the seat pipe, slide the seat pipe back into the fork tube until the seat pipe is centered in the tube, gently install the slider assembly onto the slider tube and the bushing, thread the seat pipe screw and washer into the seat pipe through the bottom of the slider assembly, draw the fastener into the seat pipe but do not tighten it at this time, verify the proper action of the fork by moving the slider up and down the fork tube, locate the appropriate fork seal driver over the fork tube in front of the oil seal with the fork seal chamfered lips facing the oil in the fork, in the following order assemble thetop oil seal, the spacer and the bushing guide into the slider bore, install the stopper ring into its groove above the oil seal, push the dust seal against the oil seal and stopper ring, rotate the slider cover to match any removal burrs to the notch in the slider and snap the slider cover into place. THEN operate the slider through its full range of travel several times to verify alignment and proper smooth operation, then pulling down on the slide to apply downward force on the rebound spring, tighten the seat pipe screw to 106-159 in-lbs (12-18 Nm), vertically re-position the fork tube into the fork tube holder tool and with the slider tube compressed, fill the fork with Harley-Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL until it is approximately the amount specified below for the type or motorcycle and fork that it is.

a. FXDWG- approximately 29.6 oz (875 cc) and distance from the top of the fork tube = 4.4 in (112 mm); and
b. All other Dyna models- approximately 26.6 oz (787 cc) and distance from the top of the fork tube = 4.3 in (110 mm)
THEN slowly pump the slider 8 to 10 times to remove air from the fork assembly and fully compress the slider to properly measure the oil level which is measured from the top of the fork tube, with the spacer and the spring removed and the fork fully compressed, then using an appropriate oil level gauge tool adjust the oil level to appropriate level for the fork type and model, pull out the slider and install the spring in the fork tube with the tightly wound end at the bottom, install the washer and the spring collar, carefully to avoid cross threading, install the fork tube cap with a new o-ring and tighten it to 16-43 ft-lbs (22-58 Nm). Repeat the process for the other fork tube and slider assembly.

To install the fork in a 2007 DYNA FIRST insert the fork tube and the slider assemblies up through the lower triple clamp and the upper triple clamp so that the fork tubes will protrude above the upper triple clamp 0.450-0.500 in. (11.4-12.7 mm) with the measurement taken at the midpoint of the fork tube between the top surface of the triple clamp and the top of the fork cap and when properly positioned tighten the pinch bolts to 30-35 ft-lbs (41- 48 Nm), install the front fender and bracket, install the front brake caliper(s), install the front wheel and align the wheel to the forks.

Many times a common cause the rebound dampening of the forks them selves. Forks have large springs internally as well as tubes with various holes the restrict the fluid flow. When you carry your front wheel or pop a wheelie the springs immediately pop the forks to the max extended position and make a metallic clunk. Check your owners manual for correct fork fluid viscosity and volumne. Replace and set correctly.
Check for cable guides that may interfere with fork travel. They may have to be repositioned.
Your front fender may have loose fasteners and the bracket between the tire and the fender is clanking.
Keep on riding,
TF

I have no diagrams for you. MAke your own as you take it apart etc and take lots of cell phone pictures if you need help remembering how to put things back together.

Table 1-6. Type E Fork Oil Amounts

MODEL OZ CC IN. MM

FXDXT 11.5 341 6.10 154.9

FXDWG 12.0 356 7.28 184.9

FXDL 10.7 316 7.20 182.9

FXD 10.6 314 6.69 169.9

Changing fork oil is a simple mater for some models and requires fork disassembly for others. Here is the procedure for all 2001 DYNA models:

2001 DYNA FRONT FORK OIL 1.18

REPLACING FORK OIL Replace front fork oil at every 20,000 mile (32,000 km) service interval and/or prior to storage.

ALL BUT FXDX & FXDXT models

Raise and support the motorcycle so the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, on FXDL models, remove the center plug from each fork cap, on all other models, remove the fork tube caps, remove the drain screws from the bottom of each fork and drain the fork oil, replace the drain screws and washers and tighten the screws

to 13-17 in-lbs (1.5-2.0 Nm) THEN see Table 1-6. and fill the fork with Harley-Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL (Part No. HD-99884-80) as set out in the Table. THEN if apart assemble the forks as follows:

a. FXD, FXDXT, FXDWG models: install both fork tube caps and tighten them to 11-22 ft-lbs (14.9-29.8 Nm).

b. FXDL models: install center plugs and tighten until secure.

Fork oil amounts can be measured two ways: use the oz./cc measurement if fork is left in frame; use the in./mm measurement if the fork is disassembled in which case the oil level is measured from the top of the fork tube with the spring removed and the fork fully compressed.

Table 1-6. Type E Fork Oil Amounts for 2001 DYNA

MODEL OZ CC IN. MM

FXDXT 11.5 341 6.10 154.9

FXDWG 12.0 356 7.28 182.9

FXD 10.6 314 6.69 169.9

PART NO. SPECIALTY TOOL

HD-41177 Fork tube holder

HD-41549A Fork spring compression tool

HD-41551 Spring plate tool

HD-36583 Fork seal installer

HD-59000A Pro-level oil gauge

FRONT FORKS: FXDX & FXDXT 2.20

REMOVAL

Raise and support the motorcycle so the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, remove both front brake calipers and the front wheel, remove the front fender, remove the front fairing, remove the headlamp bracket and attach the headlamp to the frame using a rubber bungee strap, loosen the upper and lower triple clamp pinch bolts and pull the fork sides from the brackets.

DISASSEMBLY

Remove the stopper ring, remove the spring preload adjuster but DO NOT unthread the rebound adjuster from the damper rod because incorrect assembly could result in reduced adjustment range. THEN unthread the fork cap from the fork tube and allow the fork leg to drop, exposing the spring, THEN get a FORK SPRING COMPRESSION TOOL (Part No. HD-41549A) on the spring collar, turn the screws in to engage the holes in collar, compress the spring until the SPRING PLATE TOOL (Part No. HD-

41551) can be positioned between the spacer and the spring collar, THEN hold the fork bolt and compression adjuster, remove the fork bolt from the compression adjuster, remove the spring adjuster plate from the fork bolt, remove spacer, spring collar and spring, pour out the fork oil by pumping the fork leg and rod 8-10 times or until rod the moves freely. THEN position fork slider in vise using a FORK TUBE HOLDER such as (Part No. HD-41177) to avoid damage. THEN remove the socket head bolt, remove the damper from the fork tube, remove the cover from the slider, remove seal and stopper ring, pull the fork tube out of the slider, remove the oil seal, spacer and guide bushing from the fork tube.

CLEANING AND INSPECTION

Measure the fork spring free length and replace the spring if it is shorter than 17.00 in. (431.8 mm), check the fork tube and the slider for score marks, scratches or abnormal wear, check the slide and guide bushings for excessive wear or scratches, set the fork tube on V-blocks and measure runout which should not exceed 0.008 in. (0.2 mm).

ASSEMBLY

Coat the oil seal with TYPE E FORK OIL, before installing the slide bushing and guide bushing, lubricate them with fork oil, THEN install the guide bushing and the spacer seal noting that the guide bushing opening must be oriented to the side and NOT to the front or rear, THEN slip the slider into the fork tube, place the slide bushing over the fork tube until it rests on the slider, drive the guide bushing with the spacer seal into the slider, lubricate a new oil seal with TYPE E FORK Oil, drive the oil seal into the slider using FORK SEAL INSTALLER (Part No. HD-36583). install the stopper ring and dust seal, (if the rebound adjuster was removed from the damper rod bottom the lock nut on the threaded portion of damper rod, holding a thumb on the detent spring and ball, back out (turn counterclockwise) the rebound adjuster to the last "click." and then turn down (clockwise) 17 "clicks", thread the rebound adjuster onto the damper rod until the adjuster stops at maximum thread engagement (but do not force it), thread the locknut onto the damper rod up until it contacts the base of the rebound adjuster and tighten it in place), THEN holding the slider in a vise while being careful not to damage it. install the damper tube into the fork tube and tighten the socket screw and washer to 22-29 ft-lbs (29.8-39.3 Nm). THEN pour half the TYPE E FORK OIL into the fork tube, slowly pump the damper rod 10 or more times, position the damper rod in the fully bottomed position and pour the remaining amount of TYPE E FORK OIL into the fork tube. THEN using a PRO-LEVEL OIL GAUGE (Part No. HD-59000A) or similar adjust the oil level to 5.04 in. (128 mm). THEN carefully clean and install the spring, the spring collar, and the spacers with the sharp edge created when they were stamped out when manufactured, facing the collar. THEN using a FORK SPRING COMPRESSION TOOL such as (Part No. HD-41549A) push spring collar down and place a SPRING PLATE such as (Part No. HD-41551) between the spacer and the spring collar, install the fork cap and tighten it against the rebound adjuster to 22-29 ft-lbs (29.8-39.3 Nm). THEN tighten the fork cap onto the fork tube to 11-22 ft-lbs (14.9-29.8 Nm), install the spring adjuster plate, replace the O-rings on the spring preload adjuster and lubricate them with fork oil. THEN install the spring preload adjuster and the stopper ring and carefully drive the slider cover into the slider.

INSTALLATION

Insert both fork side assemblies up through the fork stem and bracket and upper bracket and tighten the fork stem bracket pinch bolt(s) to 30-35 ft-lbs (40.7-47.5 Nm). Then re-install the headlamp bracket, install the front fender, install the front wheel and the brake caliper When the motorcycle is again ready for the road adjust the headlamp and road test the motorcycle.

Hopefully you will glean all you need to know from this but if you want or need more information or more FXD specific information PLEASE H

Hopefully the information below will be okay BUT if you need any more or any more specific information please post a comment and describe what you want/need.

REPLACING FORK OIL Replace front fork oil at every 20,000 mile (32,000 km) service interval and/or prior to storage.

ALL BUT FXDX & FXDXT models

Raise and support the motorcycle so the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, on FXDL models, remove the center plug from each fork cap, on all other models, remove the fork tube caps, remove the drain screws from the bottom of each fork and drain the fork oil, replace the drain screws and washers and tighten the screws

to 13-17 in-lbs (1.5-2.0 Nm) THEN see Table 1-6. and fill the fork with Harley-Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL (Part No. HD-99884-80) as set out in the Table. THEN if apart assemble the forks as follows:

a. FXD, FXDXT, FXDWG models: install both fork tube caps and tighten them to 11-22 ft-lbs (14.9-29.8 Nm).

b. FXDL models: install center plugs and tighten until secure.

Fork oil amounts can be measured two ways: use the oz./cc measurement if fork is left in frame; use the in./mm measurement if the fork is disassembled in which case the oil level is measured from the top of the fork tube with the spring removed and the fork fully compressed.

Table 1-6. Type E Fork Oil Amounts for 2001 DYNA

MODEL OZ CC IN. MM

FXDXT 11.5 341 6.10 154.9

FXDWG 12.0 356 7.28 182.9

FXD 10.6 314 6.69 169.9

PART NO. SPECIALTY TOOL

HD-41177 Fork tube holder

HD-41549A Fork spring compression tool

HD-41551 Spring plate tool

HD-36583 Fork seal installer

HD-59000A Pro-level oil gauge

FRONT FORKS: FXDX & FXDXT 2.20

REMOVAL

Raise and support the motorcycle so the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, remove both front brake calipers and the front wheel, remove the front fender, remove the front fairing, remove the headlamp bracket and attach the headlamp to the frame using a rubber bungee strap, loosen the upper and lower triple clamp pinch bolts and pull the fork sides from the brackets.

DISASSEMBLY

Remove the stopper ring, remove the spring preload adjuster but DO NOT unthread the rebound adjuster from the damper rod because incorrect assembly could result in reduced adjustment range. THEN unthread the fork cap from the fork tube and allow the fork leg to drop, exposing the spring, THEN get a FORK SPRING COMPRESSION TOOL (Part No. HD-41549A) on the spring collar, turn the screws in to engage the holes in collar, compress the spring until the SPRING PLATE TOOL (Part No. HD-

41551) can be positioned between the spacer and the spring collar, THEN hold the fork bolt and compression adjuster, remove the fork bolt from the compression adjuster, remove the spring adjuster plate from the fork bolt, remove spacer, spring collar and spring, pour out the fork oil by pumping the fork leg and rod 8-10 times or until rod the moves freely. THEN position fork slider in vise using a FORK TUBE HOLDER such as (Part No. HD-41177) to avoid damage. THEN remove the socket head bolt, remove the damper from the fork tube, remove the cover from the slider, remove seal and stopper ring, pull the fork tube out of the slider, remove the oil seal, spacer and guide bushing from the fork tube.

CLEANING AND INSPECTION

Measure the fork spring free length and replace the spring if it is shorter than 17.00 in. (431.8 mm), check the fork tube and the slider for score marks, scratches or abnormal wear, check the slide and guide bushings for excessive wear or scratches, set the fork tube on V-blocks and measure runout which should not exceed 0.008 in. (0.2 mm).

ASSEMBLY

Coat the oil seal with TYPE E FORK OIL, before installing the slide bushing and guide bushing, lubricate them with fork oil, THEN install the guide bushing and the spacer seal noting that the guide bushing opening must be oriented to the side and NOT to the front or rear, THEN slip the slider into the fork tube, place the slide bushing over the fork tube until it rests on the slider, drive the guide bushing with the spacer seal into the slider, lubricate a new oil seal with TYPE E FORK Oil, drive the oil seal into the slider using FORK SEAL INSTALLER (Part No. HD-36583). install the stopper ring and dust seal, (if the rebound adjuster was removed from the damper rod bottom the lock nut on the threaded portion of damper rod, holding a thumb on the detent spring and ball, back out (turn counterclockwise) the rebound adjuster to the last "click." and then turn down (clockwise) 17 "clicks", thread the rebound adjuster onto the damper rod until the adjuster stops at maximum thread engagement (but do not force it), thread the locknut onto the damper rod up until it contacts the base of the rebound adjuster and tighten it in place), THEN holding the slider in a vise while being careful not to damage it. install the damper tube into the fork tube and tighten the socket screw and washer to 22-29 ft-lbs (29.8-39.3 Nm). THEN pour half the TYPE E FORK OIL into the fork tube, slowly pump the damper rod 10 or more times, position the damper rod in the fully bottomed position and pour the remaining amount of TYPE E FORK OIL into the fork tube. THEN using a PRO-LEVEL OIL GAUGE (Part No. HD-59000A) or similar adjust the oil level to 5.04 in. (128 mm). THEN carefully clean and install the spring, the spring collar, and the spacers with the sharp edge created when they were stamped out when manufactured, facing the collar. THEN using a FORK SPRING COMPRESSION TOOL such as (Part No. HD-41549A) push spring collar down and place a SPRING PLATE such as (Part No. HD-41551) between the spacer and the spring collar, install the fork cap and tighten it against the rebound adjuster to 22-29 ft-lbs (29.8-39.3 Nm). THEN tighten the fork cap onto the fork tube to 11-22 ft-lbs (14.9-29.8 Nm), install the spring adjuster plate, replace the O-rings on the spring preload adjuster and lubricate them with fork oil. THEN install the spring preload adjuster and the stopper ring and carefully drive the slider cover into the slider.

INSTALLATION

Insert both fork side assemblies up through the fork stem and bracket and upper bracket and tighten the fork stem bracket pinch bolt(s) to 30-35 ft-lbs (40.7-47.5 Nm). Then re-install the headlamp bracket, install the front fender, install the front wheel and the brake caliper When the motorcycle is again ready for the road adjust the headlamp and road test the motorcycle.

jack the bike up so it will be stable with the front wheel off of the bike.
Take the caliper and fender off of the forks.
Remove the wheel and loosen the tripple tree fork tube bolts so you can slip the forks out of them.
Take the fork tube top nuts off of the forks ( there is a spring in them , so be careful not to be in the way when it springs out !
Take the drain screw out of the bottom front of the forks and using the fork tube like a pump... push down and compress the fork tube to pump out the oil in the tube...
Take the bolt that goes up from the bottom of the tube out... This will release the upper portion of the tube enough to remove it from the assembly... you may have to drive the seal up toward the top of the tube by using the upper as a slide hammer... but it will come off.
Thoroughly clean the tube and parts in a pats cleaner or solution... and reassemble in reverse order.

It could be a weak spring inside the shorter fork, or possibly the longer fork is not fully seated in the head stock assembly. Did you try to compress each fork to test for equal tension? Does the bike tend to drift to one side when ridden? Both forks may need to be completely dis-assembled to note any differences inside. Hope some of this helps!

To replace the front seals on your Heritage, you'll have to pull the windshield and the nachelle off the front of your bike. Lift the bike off the ground and remove the front wheel and fender. Then loosen the pinch bolt on the lower triple tree and take the top cap nut off at the upper triple tree. Then slide the entire fork assembly out of the steering head. Take the top plug out of the upper fork tube. There will be a large spring under this plug. When you take the spring out, there should be a tapered end on the sping. Look closely and make sure you put it back in the correct direction.

Underneath the lower fork slider where the axle goes, there is an 8mm socket head bolt. This bolt takes a special "piloted hex key" to remove it but I have gotten them out using a "brand new hex key socket" and an air wrench. The hex key socket must be brand new since the depth of the hex key socket is so shallow.

Once you have the bolt out, you can pull the fork tube out of the lower slider. The seal is in the top of the slider. Remove the snap ring and pry out the seal, Notice the direction the seal is facing. After you assemble the fork tube assembly, pour in the appropiate amount of the correct oil for a "dry" rebuild.

Reassemble that tube and do the next one. Only do one tube at the time. Don't forget to torque the pinch bolt on the lower triple tree. 25-30 foot pounds. Reinstall nachele and windshield.

Good Luck
Steve

You should be able to do this job provided you have a way to get the bike off the ground. Lifting the bike off the ground enables the forks to extend all the way. This is necessary because the stock spring will be longer and stiffer requiring a bit of compression when reassembling the fork. You may need a tool or a helper to compress the spring while you thread the fork tube cap back into the top tube. There is a special tool that is made to assist with this. Whether or not you'll need this tool, I'm afraid I can't answer that with guaranteed accuracy. I know that I've serviced many front fork assemblies without any special tools. This information applies to the standard Hydro-Shock front end only, not the Springer front end.