Question about 1985 Honda VT 500 C

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I am struggling with the neutral light not working. The light bulb is fine and there appears to be a live power to it but still it does not work. Any clues???

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  • dean_shaun Oct 24, 2010

    I can now not get the bike to change down past 3rd gear and cant engage neutral. Light problem fixed. I have had a split water seal with a water pipe going into the near side fo the rear block. Could over heating cause this issue?? Or maybe wrongly adjusting gear lever??

    07554202394.. This bike is also for sale on ebay.

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Replace neutral safety switch, that should take of the problem, being
the age of the bike . it is probaly worn to the point where adjustment
would be highly unlikely...........

Posted on Oct 24, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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if the neutral light isnt working the bike assumes its in gear so it wont start with the stand down unless you pull the clutch in ,but it will cut out if you let the clutch out with the stand down.the neutral light works on a simple system it has a live feed to the bulb and the earth for the bulb goes to the neutral switch ,this is only earthed when in neutral which completes the circuit to the bulb.so check your bulb is ok then check your neutral switch is earthed when in neutral,lastly check the bulb for a live feed.

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Ive got a 1997 suzuki marauder and wvery thing is woking but no neutral light and not starting but will turn over if u jump the starter seliond it has a new battery


Ok the starter circuit relies on the bike being n neutral to start a unless you pull in the clutch as there is a switch on it.if the switch is faulty or not connected it won't start if the neutral light is not on.the neutral switch works like this.
there is a small brass sprung loaded plunger in the end of the gear selector drum which turns around when you change gear.when in neutral the plunger rubs on a switch face and send an earth up to the neutral bulb ,the other wire on the bulb goes to an ignition live wire so as so on as its earthed it competes the circuit and the bulb lights up.so if it don't work it's either a blown bulb,faulty neutral switch,bad earth wire from the switch which is near the front sprocket or no live feed from the ignition when it's turned on.

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First check the bulbs. To many times I have replaced bulbs. If bulbs are good then you have to go to the neutral safety switch. It on the drivers side of the transmission. You have power in, because other things work. Check power out. Usually a purple or purple/white wire. No power out. Replace the switch. Personally, I would just live with it.

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Why don't my 1998 s10 backup lights work when car is in reverse, stop and tail lights work fine all bulbs and fuses seem to be good ?


if the backup bulbs are good then check the neutral switch as this is where the reverse switch is, its part of the neutral switch. it may have stopped working and need replacing. you will be replacing the neutral switch. if you have power out of the switch then check for power and ground at the light socket as there could be a bad wire or connection.

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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Neutral light bulb burnt out.
2. Faulty neutral switch.
3. A loose bulb in the socket.
4. Faulty wiring from the neutral switch to the light.
5. Grounded neutral light circuit.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
neutral light wont come on when in neutral and wont start with kick stand...
Neutral light will not come on bike won start
Yamaha Motorcycle Manuals Service manual zip file
OEM parts for Yamaha
Yamaha SR250 Manual Owners manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

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1994 pontiac sunbird;i turn key on everything inside works.turn key over i get nothing


could have faulty starter or starter solenoid.hook test light make you a test light with longer wires and 12 volt bulb with socket go junk yard find good bulb with socket.hook test light to starter and see if test light lights up if so your starter or starter solenoid has a open winding. if test light dont light up could have blowed fuse to transmission neutral switch or neutral switch could be bad.try to start vechicle in neutral if vechicle starts your transmission neutral switch out of adjustment or neutral switch faulty check make sure wires going to neutral switch is damaged.

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1 Answer

I have ceiling 240v spotlights and want to connect up 12 all together onto one switch tried wiring the lights thru the neutral and keeping the lives all one cable but when i tried the lights nothing...


Run two wires ((L)ive and (N)eutral) across each light and connect each light to these 2 wires till all 12 are connected. Then connect N to mains Neutral and connect the L Live to a switch and connect the switch's other wire to the main Live wire. You will need to wire a fuse in series. Use a switch that can handle the current total capacity or 12 lights. Use appropriate caution by switching off power when working on the wiring.

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I have a switch hooked up to a lamp that occasionally starts blinking, I know that there is a minimum load required, so I installed a 75 watt incandescent bulb. Still blinks occasionally. I have two...


What gives me pause on this is the fact that the problem stays with the application and that your other applications work OK.

What ths issue sounds like is a neutral connection issue.. Many of the Cooper sensor/switch products require a neutral connection to avoid the issue you're describing. If there was no neutral connection, the sensor would draw power, and then dump it out through the light fixture - causing the lamps to flash (like you're seeing). But if you add a neutral connection to the device, the sensor can dump it out through the neutral and not excite the light bulbs.

So why does it work in the other installations and not here? Well, one possibility is that maybe those other installations have a LOT of load (multiple fixtures) so that spike of current isn't enough to make them blink. The other possibility is that maybe there isn't a neutral connection in the box, or maybe the neutral connection was disconnected from the box. I struggle with both these answers especially since you were able to do it successfully in two other locations, but the problem mode you discuss SCREAMS neutral issue.

If you can't solve it by those means, I recommended replacing it with the Lutron equivalent, the MS-OP600M-WH (dimmer) or MS-OPS6M-DV-WH (switch). Neither of these device leak a lot of current and work without requiring a neutral connection.

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My 52" Hunter Ceiling Fan with remote has been a gem. Last week when one of the light bulbs burnt out, I replaced the bulb, and then neither of the lights (it's a 2 light bulb fan) would come on. The fan...


The two bulbs are just having a separate live cable in parallel with the one of the motor.

So since you have mentioned that you had a burned bulb this sometimes causes a short inside the receptacle of the bulb. So you just need to disassemble the receptacle of the burned bulb and check both the wires live and neutral they are loose or disconnect or even melt and disconnect.

Is a simple operation since you need to check only two wires however it not so easy to remove the bulbs and reconnect the wires.

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