Question about 2004 Ducati SS1000 DS

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Trying to remove showa suspension have all hardware loose and forks spinning in triple clamps but there is a ring/spacer around fork on top of top triple clamp.Not sure if this ring slides off top of fork to take forks off downwards and dont want to force something I should not .Cant see any other way tho????

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    Trying to remove the mufflers- they wiggle but won't slide off the pipes. All securing hardware is removed- clamps are off

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I've got a book here that says you suspend the bike so that the forks don't bind, remove the speedo cable and the brake caliper/s, It says to remove the center nut, and the whole fork assembly will slide down, But, I don't see why that would have to happen. It doesn't say anything about the rings, Pop one of those rings off and see if you can pull out a fork one at a time, You should have the rings on the top of the tubes for a guide, It will tell you where to put it back. Maybe it is just a Showa thing.

Posted on Nov 15, 2010

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1 Answer

I want to split my fz16s front fork


Before you remove the fork loosen the top triple clamp on the fork you want to remove. Now loosen the top cap of the fork. Loosen the bottom triple clamp and slide the fork out of the bike. Remove the top cap of the fork.There is spring pressure pushing against the cap, but if the fork is not being compressed it not difficult to take off or to put back on. When it is removed pour the oil in to a container and reinstall the cap. In stall the cap all the way but you don't have to tighten it.
Slide the dust cap up and off of the fork without scratching any of the chrome. Now remove the "C" clip or spring that was under the dust seal and place with the dust seal.Flip the fork upside down to access the allen head bolt in the bottom of the fork. Using an impact driver break this loose. Once loose remove the top cap and spring from inside. Now remove the the bottom bolt. Holding both tubes of the fork compress and snap apart quickly. This might take a few times but the should come apart rather easily.

Oct 23, 2014 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

How to change steering head bearings


If bearing races are removed, the bearings cannot be reused, they must be replaced.
1. Support motorcycle so front end is off floor and forks are fully extended.
2. Remove right side cover and remove maxi-fuse.
3. Remove headlamp and headlamp bracket.
4. Remove both front brake calipers.
5. Remove front wheel.
6. Remove front fender bracket with front fender.
7. Loosen but do not remove fork tube caps.
8. Loosen all pinch bolts on top and bottom triple clamps and pull fork tubes from triple clamps.
9. Remove brake hose bracket from the bottom of fork stem and bracket.
10. Remove fork stem cap and remove fork stem nut.
11. Lift handlebars from steering head with upper triple clamp attached. Be careful not to pinch or kink control cables.
12. Remove adjusting nut, seal, and upper bearing out of bearing race.
13. Pull fork stem and lower triple clamp from bottom of steering head.

Jul 14, 2014 | 2008 Harley Davidson VRSCDX Night Rod...

1 Answer

Change fork oil street bob 2007


To change the oil or to rebuild a 2007 DYNA front fork FIRST raise and support the motorcycle so that the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, remove the brake caliper and the front wheel, remove the front fender, loosen the pinch bolt screws, do not remove the tube caps, slide the fork sides downward clear of the fork brackets, repeat the procedure for the opposite fork tube and slider assembly.

To disassemble a 2007 DYNA front fork clamp the fork tube and slider assembly in a fork tube holder tool mounted horizontally in a vise, use a 12mm Allen wrench is needed to loosen but do not remove the seat pipe screw, while the internal components are still under tension and less prone to rotate, on the right fork tube and slider assembly, remove the axle holder to access the seat pipe screw, remove the fork tube cap and its o-ring, remove the long spring collar, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool and invert it over a suitable container to catch the fork oil and allowing thefork to drain, extend and retract the slider several times to push oil out of the internal fork components, the washer, and the spring will fall out of fork tube. THEN clamp the fork tube in the fork tube holder tool, remove the slider cover from the slider by inserting a brass drift into the notch in the slider and lightly tapping the cover loose, compress the stopper ring and remove the stopper ring from the groove in the top of the slider bore, Do not remove slider tube caps without relieving the spring preload or the caps and springs may fly out. THEN remove the seat pipe screw and its washer from the bottom of the slider and retain them for reuse, withdraw the slider from the fork tube until the bushing guide contacts the bushing on the fork tube (the bushing guide is a slight interference fit in the slider), then using the slider as a slide hammer, hit the bushing with the bushing guide with a quick continuous stroke until the slider is pulled free from the fork tube, drain the slider and allow the stop oil lock piece to fall free. (If you are only changing the oil or replacing the slider the remaining parts can be left assembled and the fork re-assembled) If it is still attached to the seat pipe remove the stop oil lock piece from the lower end of the seat pipe, remove the seat pipe piston and the ring assembly, remove the rebound spring, remove the oil seal, remove the seal spacer, and remove the bushing guide. Repeat the foregoing procedure for the opposite fork tube and slider assembly.

Thoroughly clean and inspect each part and if and as necessary replace any corroded, worn, bent, broken or otherwise damaged parts, inspect the fork tube bushing and the slider guide bushing and replace if and as required, always replace all oil seals and all o-rings, check the dust cover where it rubs on the fork tube (it should have a good and continuous seal and not show excessive wear, check the fork tube where it rubs on dust the cover and the tube should show a bright, shiny surface, free of scoring or abrasions, if any spring(s) is/are broken they must be replaced, if a fork tube or slider is bent or damaged it must also be replaced now, replace all other worn or damaged components if and as necessary.

To assemble a 2007 DYNA fork FIRST insert the seat pipe assembly with the spring into the slider tube, slide the bushing guide down to the bushing on the fork tube, follow it with the spacer, the oil seal, the stopper ring, the dust shield and the slider cover, install the fork tube into the fork tube holder tool, fit the lower stop onto the seat pipe, slide the seat pipe back into the fork tube until the seat pipe is centered in the tube, gently install the slider assembly onto the slider tube and the bushing, thread the seat pipe screw and washer into the seat pipe through the bottom of the slider assembly, draw the fastener into the seat pipe but do not tighten it at this time, verify the proper action of the fork by moving the slider up and down the fork tube, locate the appropriate fork seal driver over the fork tube in front of the oil seal with the fork seal chamfered lips facing the oil in the fork, in the following order assemble thetop oil seal, the spacer and the bushing guide into the slider bore, install the stopper ring into its groove above the oil seal, push the dust seal against the oil seal and stopper ring, rotate the slider cover to match any removal burrs to the notch in the slider and snap the slider cover into place. THEN operate the slider through its full range of travel several times to verify alignment and proper smooth operation, then pulling down on the slide to apply downward force on the rebound spring, tighten the seat pipe screw to 106-159 in-lbs (12-18 Nm), vertically re-position the fork tube into the fork tube holder tool and with the slider tube compressed, fill the fork with Harley-Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL until it is approximately the amount specified below for the type or motorcycle and fork that it is.

a. FXDWG- approximately 29.6 oz (875 cc) and distance from the top of the fork tube = 4.4 in (112 mm); and
b. All other Dyna models- approximately 26.6 oz (787 cc) and distance from the top of the fork tube = 4.3 in (110 mm)
THEN slowly pump the slider 8 to 10 times to remove air from the fork assembly and fully compress the slider to properly measure the oil level which is measured from the top of the fork tube, with the spacer and the spring removed and the fork fully compressed, then using an appropriate oil level gauge tool adjust the oil level to appropriate level for the fork type and model, pull out the slider and install the spring in the fork tube with the tightly wound end at the bottom, install the washer and the spring collar, carefully to avoid cross threading, install the fork tube cap with a new o-ring and tighten it to 16-43 ft-lbs (22-58 Nm). Repeat the process for the other fork tube and slider assembly.

To install the fork in a 2007 DYNA FIRST insert the fork tube and the slider assemblies up through the lower triple clamp and the upper triple clamp so that the fork tubes will protrude above the upper triple clamp 0.450-0.500 in. (11.4-12.7 mm) with the measurement taken at the midpoint of the fork tube between the top surface of the triple clamp and the top of the fork cap and when properly positioned tighten the pinch bolts to 30-35 ft-lbs (41- 48 Nm), install the front fender and bracket, install the front brake caliper(s), install the front wheel and align the wheel to the forks.

May 11, 2014 | 2006 Harley Davidson FXDBI Street Bob

1 Answer

How do i remove the front forks? i took off the nut on top and now i cant get the bearing out?


Hi There.
There is no bearing in the forks. you are trying to take aparts the triple trees.
to remove the front forks
jack bike up
remove front wheel
remove fender
loosen the clamps that go around the forks.
there are 2 triple trees, upper and lower , the upper has the nut your taking off, of course the lower is the bottom. both have clamps that hold the forks in.
then just pull and twist in a downward motion to get the forks out.

reinstallation is reverse steps.
note how much fork is sticking up through the hole in the top triple prior to removal.

if you do want to remove the triple trees and replace your neck bearings, you will have to cut the bottom bearing off, i've never been able to remove those bearings without ruiing them.
that bearing is a very tight fit.

Hope this helps you out.
thumbs up to the do-it-yourselfers
Best regards
Big Al

May 22, 2011 | Honda XR 250 R Motorcycles

1 Answer

Hi,I am working on a 1991 VT600c,I have changed the fork oil following the instuctions on the manual.I tried to make the bottom drain bolt loose so i could drain the oil out.This bolt broke loose but does...


Put the fork back together. The spring tension from putting the fork top/cap on is what allows you to loosen and tighten the socket bolt on the bottom. It is easiest to work on the fork with the tube clamped into the upper and lower triple clamp of the motorcycle. When you first get access to the socket bolt on the bottom, you take it out. Do not loose the sealing washer. if you are not ready to drain the fork , you put it back in loosely. When you are ready to fill the fork, you put the socket bolt and sealing washer in and snug them up just enough to keep the fork oil from leaking out. Do not over fill your fork it will damage the tubes.. After the fork top is back on and screwed down , you tighten the socket bolt on the bottom and continue reassembling the bike.

Sep 23, 2010 | 1991 Honda VT 600 C Shadow

1 Answer

Fork needs charging how do I go about it?I need to put new seals and fluid in the left side fork. How do I go about it?


Start by lifting the bike off the ground and making sure it is steady and won't fall over. Remove the front wheel and front fender. Make sure you keep up with where each spacer goes.

Loosen the clamp bolt in the lower triple tree. Take the large "nut" off the top of the fork tube at the upper triple tree. At this point, the fork leg should start to slide downward out of the triple trees. But, most of the time they won't. Take a small chisel and locate the slot on the lower triple tree. Drive the chisel into the slot from beneath to spread the clamp. Make sure the clamp bolt is all the way out or at least very loose to allow the triple tree to expand. You can use a brass drift to help drive the fork leg down from the top. Use plenty of oil to help it slide.

Once you have the fork leg out, you can drain the fluid by either removing the drain plug on the lower slider and pumping the fluid out or simply take the top cap out of the tube. When you take the top cap out of the tube, the large sping in the tube will push the cap up. I don't think it will be too strong to get back in. On the earlier models, they weren't. With the top cap off, take the spring out and pour the old fluid out. Look at the lower slider where the axle goes through, you'll see a hex head bolt. Use an 8mm hex key to remove the bolt. This is a special piloted key. You can use a regular hex key but it must be in very good shape. I'd recommend using one with an air wrench. Once you get the bolt out, simply pull the upper tube out of the lower slider.

Replace the seal in the lower slider and reassemble in reverse order. Make sure you install the large spring with the tapered end down. Refill with the appropiate amount of fluid for a "dry" fork tube. I used 30 weight fluid in mine but that may be too stiff for you. If so, 20 weight is the next common. Honda may have a 25 weight fluid. Honda has some wierd fork oil weights.

Good Luck
Steve

Jul 11, 2010 | 2001 Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide

1 Answer

How do u disassemble forks


Here is a diagram of your forks:
http://216.37.204.203/Yamaha_OEM/YamahaMC.asp?Type=13&A=140&B=28
Assuming you have already removed your fork cap, you will need to remove the clip # 5 and the bolt # 18 then in a slide hammer type action, pull the upper tube out of the lower tube. There is a washer underneath the fork seal that will pull the fork seal out with the upper tube, so you have to compress the fork tube, then give it a good yank to pull the seal and separate the tubes.

A couple of tips here. First, to loosen the fork cap, loosen the top triple tree pinch bolt at each fork leg before removing the forks from the bike, then loosen the fork cap. You don't have to take the cap off at this time, but break it loose. It is very difficult to hold the fork tube and prevent it from turning once the fork is off the bike and out of the clamp. It is much easier to break it loose and leave it finger tight before dropping the forks out of the triple clamps. The key thing to remember is loosen the pinch bolt before attempting to loosen the cap. The pinch bolt applies extra pressure to the cap and can complicate the process of loosening the cap if left tight.
The other tip would be to use a 3/8" air impact wrench to loosen the allen bolt in the bottom of the fork leg. The internals will want to spin if you try to do it by hand.

Oct 03, 2009 | 1994 Yamaha FZR 600

3 Answers

82 honda sabre fork seal replacement


No special tools other than maybe an air-impact whench to remove the Allen bolts in the bottom of the fork sliders. These hold the botom of the metering rods into the forks and will spin if you don't have Honda's special tool which fits down the inside of the fork tube. Air wrench spins them off no problem.

V65 Sabre has fule filter behind battery and fule shutoff valve under seat.

Loosen upper triple-clamp pinch bolt before trying to remove fork cap.

Drain oil out of fork, then remove axle and access the metering rod holder bolt at the bottom inside the area whre the axles goes. Use an air wrench and appropriate Allen bit.

Remove fork cap, being careful of the spring pressure.

Remove fork from bike and take out spring and metering rod. Pry dust seal out of fork slider and use snap-ring pliers to remove retainer from beneath dust seal. Use fork tube to hammer seal and slider bushing out of fork slider.

Replace seal and use old seal to cushion it. Make a fork seal driver from split PVC pipe and hammer seal and slider bushing back in. Remove old seal and replace retainer clip. Install dust seal.

Reinstall on bike and install spring. With bike properly supported, stand on pegs and use ratchet, extension and socket to apply pressure to spring and thread cap carefully onto top of fork tube. Reinstall metering rod holder bolt in bottom of fork using thread-locker and air-wrench. Don't over-tighten; just ue high speed to conteract tendency of metering rod to spin inside slider.

Remove fork cap again and fill to appropriate level with 5 weight fork oil (Pro Honda SS-7 or equivalent). Use turkey-baster to remove excess oil to proper level (5 1/2 to 7 inches fully compressed depending on damping quality desired).

Jun 03, 2009 | 1985 Honda VF 1100 Sabre

1 Answer

What are the stock suspension settings for a 2003 Honda CR 250 R?


set your compression out 10 or 11 your rebound 9 or 10 and your fork oil height to roughtly 380cc.since its in 03 u should drain the fork oil out, u have to unscrew the top cap of the fork while its in the triple clamps( because its easier this way), loosen then take the fork out of the clamps, unscrew the top caps and pull the fork tube down and turn the fork upside down to drain the oil out then hang the forks up upside down for about 15 minutes then add the new oil right in the fork tube were you'll see a spring, just add the oil in there and you'll be fine and u should replace it with a good medium weight oil

Feb 04, 2009 | 2003 Honda CR 250 R

1 Answer

Will 1098 forks fit 996


will the 1098 Showa forks fit a 996 have done a search but haven't found much. I know they will fit in the standard 996 triple clamps but will my standard 996 wheel and brake rotors fit or will i need different offset rotors?The 1098 forks are actually pretty much the same as the xx9 forks. The xx8 bikes use a different diameter upper fork tube, so it won't just fit in. I think the xx8 is 53mm top and 54mm bottom and the 848/1098 is 54mm all the way through. So you'd have to change the triples, which isn't a big deal, you should be able to fit a xx9 triple on there. Even after that, they are radial mounts and you'd have to get a different set of rotors and calipers. Its not a big deal to do any of this... If you want a better front end on your 996, I highly suggest re-building the stock showa's with ohlins inserts. If you want better braking, buy a set of the older gold series 4pod/pad calipers, they work fantastic and mount to all the older forks. Radial mounts are a gimmick and a rebuilt fork is always gonna be better then a stock one...,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2001 Ducati 996

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