Question about 2002 Honda CB 900 Hornet

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2002 Honda CB 900F I am attempting to disassemble my forks to have the lowers powder coated and also replace the seals and bushings. The first one came apart easily but on the second one I can't get the damper bolt on the bottom of the leg off. It just spins the damper like it is seized. I tried reinstalling the spring etc with no luck. I wedged tapered dowels around the damper flange so it cannot rotate when i turn the bold and the bolt still spins. It seems that it is seized inside the part called oil lock piece. I suspect this part is rotating within the leg and around the damper assembly. Does the damper bold engage the oil lock piece and can i pull the damper away from the oil lock piece while the bolt is engaged? How does the oil lock piece attach to the damper?

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  • Honda Master
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Hi, Ejkovach take the fork assembly to your local bike shop and let them fix it will take 30 seconds. For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Honda CB900F Service Manual
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda CB900F Owner Manual
Honda CB 900 919 2002
Honda CB900F Wikipedia

Posted on Mar 20, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: how do i dismantle front forks to replace the oil seals

You just needed to.... remove front wheel, support bike on something, undo retaining bolts on forks, tap out fork legs from the top, using a soft mallet. Take out fork seals with a seal pick, (halfords) Replace old seal with new seals, in reverse order) sliding over the fork leg, tapping into place. Then put replace forks etc in reverse order (from dissassembly). Hope this helps

Posted on Feb 21, 2009

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: oil amount in forks

Check the service manual I sent you. All sorts of good information in it.

Again, please rate this answer. > four diamonds would be nice.

Posted on Apr 06, 2009

19ken55
  • 426 Answers

SOURCE: i am trying to replace the fork seals on my 2001

I always change the seals without taking the sliders out of the bottom legs.
If you look at the bottom you will see a bolt that holds the two together

Posted on Feb 10, 2011

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How to install lower sliders on 2008 ultra classic


Loosen the fork cap bolt from the fork tube plug at the top of the fork tube, but do not remove it at this time. THEN loosen the pinch bolt (with lockwasher) in the lower fork bracket, but do not remove it. THEN spray glass cleaner like Windex on the fork tube above the rubber fork stop and after so lubricating the surfaces move the fork stop up the fork tube until it contacts the bottom of the upper fork bracket. THEN, while holding the fork slider to prevent the fork from dropping, remove the fork cap bolt from the fork tube plug and slide the fork tube down and out of the upper fork bracket, the fork stop, the lower fork bracket, and the slider cover. THEN thread the fork cap bolt back into the fork tube plug to prevent loss of fork oil while handling the removed fork assembly. THEN move the fork to your work bench area and place a suitable drain pan on the floor underneath your vise. NOW or later you can similarly remove the other fork tube assembly.

IT IS HANDY to have a HD-41177 FORK TUBE HOLDER or similar tool.

On the first fork remove the nuts, the lockwashers, the flat washer and the axle holder from the studs at the end of the fork slider. THEN clamp end of a fork holder tool in your vise in a horizontal position with the tightening fasteners facing toward you and with the fork cap bolt at the top clamp the fork tube in between the rubber pads on the inside of the tool and tighten the fasteners to securely hold the fork tube assembly. THEN remove the fork cap bolt from the fork tube plug and remove and throw away the quad ring seal. Thenslowly unthread the fork tube plug from the fork tube being AWARE that the fork tube plug is under spring pressure which requires you to have a firm grasp on plug as the last thread is turned. THEN remove the O-ring from fork tube plug and throw it away. THEN remove the fork spring from the fork tube and remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder. THEN turn the fork upside down and drain the fork oil into the drain pan by slowly pumping the fork tube and slider at least ten times being aware that the damper valve, if it has one, may fall out of the inverted fork tube while you are draining it. THEN With the wear ring at the bottom, i.e. with the spring side up, slide the damper valve back into the fork tube when it has been fully drained.

THEN for further disassembly install the fork spring back into the fork tube place a shop rag on the floor, and turn the fork assembly upside down and press the end of spring against the rag. Push down and compress the spring to prevent the damper tube from turning and then remove the6mm screw from end of fork slider with a strong short stroke impact wrench and 12 mm Allen socket adapter for best results. When the screw and washer are removed throw away the 6mm screw and copper crush washer. THEN remove the fork spring, the damper valve (if it has one) and the damper tube from fork tube. THEN remove the wear ring and the rebound spring from the damper tube and it has one, from the damper valve, if it has one. Then without expanding or stretching the retaining clip to avoid it becoming bent or distorted, remove it from the fork tube. THEN, using an appropriate pick tool, remove the retaining clip from between the fork slider and the fork tube and remove the fork tube from the fork slider. Use the fork tube as a slide hammerwith a moderate amount of force until the fork tube separates from the fork slider. THEN slide the fork oil seal, the slider spacer and the slider bushing off of the end of the fork tube and throw away the fork oil seal and the slider bushing. THEN gently pry at the split line to expand the fork leg bushing, and remove it from the groove at the end of the fork tube and throw away the fork leg bushing. THEN remove the lower stop fromthe fork slider.

THEN thoroughly clean and inspect all of the parts. And replace all parts that are bent, broken or otherwise obviously damaged. Inspect the fork cap bolt quad ring seal and the fork tube plug O-ring for cuts, tears or other signs of deterioration and replace whatever is necessary and/or prudent. THEN replace the retaining clip if bent or distorted and check the slider and fork leg bushings for scratches or excessive wear and always replace bushings in a set if either bushing is damaged or worn THEN also check the fork tube and the slider for scoring, scratches and excessive or abnormal wear and replace all parts as necessary and/or prudent. THEN set the fork tube on V-blocks and measure the runout using a dial indicator gauge and replace the fork if runout exceeds 0.008 in. (0.2 mm). THEN inspect the upper fork spring and the rebound spring for damage or distortion and replace the upper fork spring if the free length is less than 18.4 in. (467.3 mm) and replace the rebound spring if its free length is less than 0.938 in. (23.8 mm) or otherwise whenever the upper fork spring requires replacement.
To reassemble the fork coat the fork leg bushing ID with clean fork oil and then expand the fork leg bushing at the split line only so far as required to it slip over the end and into the groove of the fork tube. THEN install a new wear ring in the groove at the top of the damper tube and install the rebound spring on the opposite end. Now, with the wear ring on the top side slide the damper tube into the fork tube, so that the tube end drops through the hole at the bottom of the fork tube. Now install the lower stop at the end of the damper tube and put the fork slider back into your fork tube holder. THEN slide the fork tube into the fork slider. NEXT coat the slider bushing ID with clean fork oil and install the slider bushing down into the fork tube and then slide the slider spacer down the fork tube until it meets the slider bushing and then get your fork oil seal installer tool and it down the fork tube and drive the slider bushing and spacer into the bore of the fork slider and then remove the tool and THEN put some masking tape over the top edge of the fork tube to avoid damaging the lip of the fork oil seal during installation and then coat the new oil seal with new fork oil and install the seal with the garter spring facing into the fork tube and slide it down to the bore of the slider and the earlier installed spacer and then remove the masking tape and with your fork seal installation tool drive the seal down into the top of the slider until you can insert the retaining ring and then again remove the seal driver tool and install the retainer ring into its slider groove. NOW slide the fork spring into the tube and remove the fork assembly from your fork tube holder and with a shop towel or rag on the floor turn the assembly upside down and press the spring against the shop towel or rag and install a new 6mm screw with a new copper crush washer through hole at bottom of fork slider and start to screw it into the end of the damper tube. Continue to compress the spring into the assembly to stop the damper tube from turning and tighten the 6mm screw to 132-216 in-lbs (14.9-24.4 Nm). After this remove the fork spring from the fork tube and again clamp the fork slider (NOT THE FORK TUBE) into your fork holder tool with the fork tube on the top side and if it was previously removed install the drain plug at the bottom of the fork slider and tighten it to 72-96 in-lbs (8-11 Nm).

THEN refill with the correct amount of fork oil. It is very important for the correct and safe operation of the bike that the CORRECT amount of oil be installed. FOLLOW the correct procedures for doing this.

Aug 10, 2014 | Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

2009 harley street bob fork seal replacement


I have never seen seals replaced without dismantling the forks. The seal will come in a fork revbuild kit whether the bushings etc are used or not. Obtained separately but necessary in any case are new lower fork bolts and copper washers. I suppose it might be possible to get the seal out of the fork leg without completely dismantling the fork but the normal way of removing the seal is to use the slider as a slider hammer tool to drive the upper bushing and seal from the fork leg which requires removal of the lower bolt and washer and pretty much fully dismantling the fork. You will also need a special fork holder tool or at the least a pair of vise soft jaws and it is critical how much fork oil is added back into the fork as too much will make the ride unacceptably hard and too little will allow the fork to compress too much and be too soft. You also really need an appropriate seal installer to reinstall the seal and upper bushing etc. All that being said:

May 23, 2014 | 2006 Harley Davidson FXDBI Street Bob

1 Answer

How do i rebuild 41mm forks


Depends on how much rebuilding you want to do.
See below:

FRONT FORK 2.16
CHANGING FORK OIL On a 2010 Touring Motorcycle 41 mm Fork
If only replacing the fork oil remove the for, clamp a fork holder tool in a vise in a horizontal position and with the fork cap bolt topside securely clamp the fork into the tool, remove the fork cap bolt, remove and discard the quad ring seal, carefully remove the fork tube plug from the fork tube and because it is under strong spring pressure have and maintain a firm grasp on the plug as the last thread is turned because it will want to fly upwards under the spring pressure, remove and discard the O-ring fork tube plug o-ring, remove the fork spring from the fork tube, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool, being aware that the damper valve if one is installed (All touring models, with the exception of Road King, have a damper valve type fork on both the left and right sides. Road King uses the conventional type fork on both sides.) will fall out when the fork tube is inverted for draining turn the fork upside down and drain the fork oil into a suitable drain pan while slowly pumping the fork tube and slider at least ten times and then allow about 10-15 minutes for the fork assembly to completely drain. THEN with the fork tube right-side-up securely clamp the fork slider (not the fork tube) into the fork tube holder, install the drain plug at the bottom of the fork slider, if it had been removed and tighten the plug to 72-96 in-lbs (8-11 Nm).

MODEL FORK TYPE AMOUNT
OZ. ML IN. MM
All models Damper Valve 10.7 317 4.92 125
Except FLHR/C
FLHR/C Conventional 11.0 325 4.92 125

Pour slightly more Harley-Davidson Type E Fork Oil directly into the fork tube than is specified for the fork type, slowly pump the fork tube until some resistance is felt and then pump a few more times and then for all models except FLHR/C (i.e. for damper valve type forks), install a new wear ring in its groove in the damper valve, with the wear ring at the bottom (spring side up) slide the damper valve into the fork tube, install the fork spring into the fork tube, use the fork spring to push the damper valve to the bottom of the fork tube, remove the fork spring from the fork tube, slowly pump the fork tube a few more times to eliminate air from the damper valve, adjust the ring of a fork level gauge 4.92 inches or 125mm and then with the fork tube bottomed in the fork slider insert the tube of the gauge into the fork slider until the metal ring rests flat on the top of the fork tube and use the gauge plunger to draw oil from fork (if no oil is drawn out, add a small amount to the fork tube and repeat the process) until the oil level is at the specified level in the fork slider, install the fork spring into the fork tube with the tighter wound coils at the bottom, remove the fork slider from the fork tube holder tool, clamp fork tube into the fork tube holder tool, install a newO-ring onto the fork tube plug, install the fork tube plug into the fork tube and tighten it to 60-70 ft-lbs (81.4-94.9 Nm), install a newquad ring seal onto the fork cap bolt and install it into the fork tube plug to prevent loss of fork oil while working further with it. THEN on right side fork, loosely install the axle holder with its flat
washers, lockwashers and nuts, install the fork and assemble the motorcycle.

To remove a 2010 Touring 41 mm fork assembly FIRSTraise the front wheel, remove the front wheel, remove the front fender, and for FLHR/C remove the headlamp nacelle. And for FLHX, FLHT/C/U, FLHTK remove inner fairing cap, and for FLTRX remove the instrument nacelle, loosen the fork cap bolt, but do not
remove it at this time, loosen the pinch bolt but do not remove it, hold the fork slider to prevent the fork from dropping, remove the fork cap bolt from the fork tube plug, slide the fork tube down to remove. And loosely install the fork cap bolt to prevent loss of fork oil while working with the fork.

DISASSEMBLY
To disassemble a 2010 Touring 41mm fork assembly FIRST remove the fork assembly, the right side fork remove the axle holder from the end of the fork slider, drain the fork, install the fork spring into the fork tube, place a shop cloth or towel on the floor, turn the fork assembly upside down, press the end of the spring against the shop cloth or towel to prevent rotation of the damper tube and remove the metric screw from the end of the fork slider with an air impact wrench, discard the screw and copper washer, remove the fork spring, the damper valve (if equipped) and the damper tube from the fork tube, remove the wear ring and rebound spring from the damper tube, remove the wear ring from the damper valve, (if equipped), remove the retaining clip using an appropriate pick tool, remove the fork tube from the fork slider by using the fork tube as a slide hammer tool, slide the fork oil seal, the slider spacer and the slider bushing off from the end of the fork tube, discard the fork oil seal and the slider bushing, gently pry at the split line to expand the fork leg bushing and remove it from its groove at the end of the fork tube, discard the fork leg bushing and remove the lower stop from fork the slider.

CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Thoroughly clean and inspect all parts and replace any parts that are corroded, bent, inoperative or otherwise obviously damaged, inspect the fork cap bolt quad ring seal and the fork tube plug o-ring for cuts, tears or signs of deterioration and replace if and as necessary, replace the retaining clip if is bent or distorted, check the slider and the fork leg bushings for scratches or excessive wear and always replace bushings in a set if either bushing needs to be replaced, check both the fork tube and the fork slider for scoring, scratches and excessive or abnormal wear and replace parts if and as required, set the fork tube on V-blocks and measure its runout using a dial indicator gauge and replace it if the runout exceeds 0.008 in. (0.2 mm), inspect the upper fork spring and the rebound spring for damage or distortion, and replace the upper fork spring if its free length is less than19.27 in. (489.4 mm) for Non-Fairing Models and 18.73 in. (475.7 mm) for Fairing Models and replace the rebound spring if its free length is less than 0.938 in. (23.8 mm) or any time the upper fork spring is replaced.

ASSEMBLY
To assemble a 2010 Touring 41 mm fork assembly FIRST coat the ID of the fork leg bushing with clean fork oil, expand the fork leg bushing at the split line only enough to slip it over the end of the fork tube and into its groove on the fork tube, install a newwear ring into the groove at the top of the damper tube, install the rebound spring on the opposite end, with the wear ring topside slide the damper tube into the fork tube so that the tube end drops through the hole at the bottom of the fork tube, install the lower stop at the end of the damper tube, install the fork slider into the fork tube holder tool, slide the fork tube into the fork slider, coat the ID of the slider bushing with clean fork oil, slide the slider bushing down the fork tube, slide a 41 mm fork seal installer tool down the fork tube and using the it as a slide hammer drive the slider bushing into the counterbore of the fork slider, then remove the tool, place masking tape over edge of the fork tube to avoid damaging the lip of the fork oil seal during installation, coat the ID ofa new fork oil seal with clean new fork oil, then with the lip garter spring side facing down toward the fork slider slide the seal down the fork tube until it contacts the slider spacer, remove the masking tape from the edge of the fork tube and using the 41 mm fork seal installer tool as a slide hammer, drive the fork oil seal down the fork tube until the retaining clip groove is visible above the seal in the ID of the fork slider, remove the tool, install the retaining clip in the groove, install the fork spring into fork the fork tube, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool, place a shop cloth or towel on the floor, turn the fork assembly upside down and press the end of the spring against the shop cloth or towel to prevent rotation of the damper tube, install a new screw and a new copper washer at the bottom of the fork slider and while compressing the spring tighten the screw to 132-216 in lbs(14.9-24.4 Nm), remove the fork spring from the fork tube, fill the fork with fork oil to the specified amount and complete assembly of the fork. On the right side fork, loosely install the axle holder with its flat
washers, lockwashers and nuts.

INSTALLATION
To install a 2010 Touring 41 mm fork assembly FIRST remove the fork cap bolt, slide the fork tube up and into the slider cover, lower the fork bracket, the fork stop, and the upper fork bracket, install the fork cap bolt, install the pinch bolt and lockwasher into the lower fork bracket and tighten the pinch bolt to 53-57 ft-lbs(71.9-77.3 Nm), tighten the fork cap bolt to 60-70 ft-lbs (81.4-94.9 Nm) and repeat these steps on the other fork, install the front fender and wheel, and for FLHR/C install the headlamp nacelle, for FLHX, FLHT/C/U, FLHTK install the fairing inner cap and for FLTRX install the instrument nacelle.

May 15, 2014 | 2010 Harley Davidson FLHX Street Glide

1 Answer

I have had the same fork leak after being replaced two times,on my o1 rd king,whats the deal was that a bad year fork seals,leaking again.


First off, make sure you or whoever is doing the work is installing the correct seal in the proper direction. A seal put in backwards will leak like crazy. Also, make sure you're putting the correct amount of fork oil in once you get finished. There are usually two different quantities of oil listed. One is a "WET" quantity that you add when you simply drain the tubes and refill them. The other is a "DRY" quantity that you put in whenever you disassemble the tubes. I usually use 30 wt. fork oil. You shouldn't be having a problem unless you have something really bad wrong. The fork tube must be sized to fit the bushings inside the lower fork tube (slider) so the seals should work.

Good Luck
Steve

Apr 19, 2011 | 2001 Harley Davidson FLHR - FLHRCI Road...

1 Answer

How do i change the oil seal of the front suspension of my kawasaki 1994 zxr 750?


You need prop the bike up on front and rear stands. The fron stand needs to be the type that holds the bike up by the headtube. Remove brake calipers, front wheel, fender. Then loosen the upper and lower triple clamps. Loosen the clip ons. But before loosening the lower triple, loosen the fork tube top caps.

Drop out the legs. take off the top caps, pour out the oild, and compress the spring. I'd use a fork compressor, race tech makes a nice one. Loosen the top cap from the damping rod. Remove the top cap then pump out the rest of the oil from the damper.

Next, remove the outer dust seal. Remove circlip. Then you need to just extend the fork several times quickly to "bang" out the oil seal and bushings.

The outer bushings, if they look good, need to be gently pryed off using a thin flat head screw driver in the **** of the bushing. Same with the inner bushing. Now the oil seal, metal washer and circlip all come out together. Remember the order.

Lube up the new seals with fresh oil. put back on the fork lowers in the same order they were taken off. Replace bushings at the same time if there's any brass showing. I usually do it any way since the seals seem to go at the same rate as the bushings for me.

Once back together, seat the seals. There's a tool for this, but I usually **** the old oil seal so I can get it on the lower fork tube between the new oil seal and new dust seal. and I quickly compress (bang) the fork a few times until the groove on the upper leg is showing so the circlip will lock back on. Probably not recommended but I haven't ruined a dust seal in about 20 years now.

Fill fork with proper oil viscosity and volume (don't remember how much or weight for zx7s). cycle the damper about 20 times to make sure they're full of oil too. insert spring, re-compress, lock on top cap to damping rod. screw on top cap. reassemble fork on bike. Remember to torque the top cap with the top triple clamp loose otherwise the caps can bind.

Mar 22, 2011 | 1994 kawasaki ZXR 750

1 Answer

Forkseals


Assuming the forks are off:

Turn each fork upside down and clamp the axle mount(protected) in a vice. Remove the valve from the very bottom of the fork. Turn the fork rightside up and fluid will drain out the hole you just created.

Now, use a flat screw driver to remove the dust seal from the fork. Under the dust seal, you'll see a wavy wire ring retaining the seal. Use a small tool to work this spring loaded ring out. Now, by yourself or with assistance, try to **** the upper tube out of the lower fork leg. It'll take a few tries. Each time, slide the tube back in a ways and pull out really fast. Soon, your fork seal, along the bushings and entire upper tube will pop out. Then just slide the seal up and off the top of your upper fork tube.

*Help me out. Rate me!

Jun 10, 2010 | 1992 Honda CB 750F2 Seven Fifty

1 Answer

I have a honda qr50 and i need some dirrections on


The bolt at the top only holds it into the top triple clamp, You need to unscrew the crome nut on the top of the lower legs, with large multi grips to separate the upper and lower forks. but I think you will only find a spring and some grease and a nylon bush

May 25, 2010 | 2003 Honda Honda Fusion

1 Answer

My front forks on my 94 rm125 compress but won't


Most likely cause is worn bushings in the forks. This will require total disassembly and replacing the bushings along with the fluid and seals.


*Help me out. Rate me!

May 09, 2010 | Suzuki RM 125 Motorcycles

1 Answer

94 shadow vt1100 front forks to soft.


Does it have a bad fork seal? Check this by popping the dust cover off the lower legs and if you see fork oil on top of the seal than it has gone dad and needs replaced. Adding oil to the forks will stiffen then back up but if you have bad seals then you will be adding more oil again in a very short time and also this is dangerous cause the oil can get on the brake pads and cause brake fade when you need them.
Good luck.

Oct 17, 2009 | 2003 Honda Cb 400 Super Four

3 Answers

82 honda sabre fork seal replacement


No special tools other than maybe an air-impact whench to remove the Allen bolts in the bottom of the fork sliders. These hold the botom of the metering rods into the forks and will spin if you don't have Honda's special tool which fits down the inside of the fork tube. Air wrench spins them off no problem.

V65 Sabre has fule filter behind battery and fule shutoff valve under seat.

Loosen upper triple-clamp pinch bolt before trying to remove fork cap.

Drain oil out of fork, then remove axle and access the metering rod holder bolt at the bottom inside the area whre the axles goes. Use an air wrench and appropriate Allen bit.

Remove fork cap, being careful of the spring pressure.

Remove fork from bike and take out spring and metering rod. Pry dust seal out of fork slider and use snap-ring pliers to remove retainer from beneath dust seal. Use fork tube to hammer seal and slider bushing out of fork slider.

Replace seal and use old seal to cushion it. Make a fork seal driver from split PVC pipe and hammer seal and slider bushing back in. Remove old seal and replace retainer clip. Install dust seal.

Reinstall on bike and install spring. With bike properly supported, stand on pegs and use ratchet, extension and socket to apply pressure to spring and thread cap carefully onto top of fork tube. Reinstall metering rod holder bolt in bottom of fork using thread-locker and air-wrench. Don't over-tighten; just ue high speed to conteract tendency of metering rod to spin inside slider.

Remove fork cap again and fill to appropriate level with 5 weight fork oil (Pro Honda SS-7 or equivalent). Use turkey-baster to remove excess oil to proper level (5 1/2 to 7 inches fully compressed depending on damping quality desired).

Jun 03, 2009 | 1985 Honda VF 1100 Sabre

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