Question about 2000 Ducati 750 SS i.e. N-C

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2000 750 ss have lites but no power to the starter selniod or fuel pump or spark each one tests out what may be problem? is it a relay maybe my ecu thanks dave

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Hi, Bikerdad1368 and the usual suspects are:
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Bank angle sensor tripped and ignition/light key switch not cycled to the "OFF" position and then back to the "ON" position.
5. Faulty starter button/switch.
6. Faulty jiffy stand or clutch pull in switch/sensor.
7. Security alarm needs a reset.
8. Starter control circuit, relay, or solenoid faulty.
9. Electric starter shaft pinion gear is not engaging or over-running starter clutch slipping.
For more information about your issue and valuable free downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have nice a day.
1999 750SS engine turns over but won start Ducati ms The Ultimate Ducati...
ducati 900ss no spark
Free Ducati Motorcycle Service Manuals for download
Ducati OEM Parts Fiche Lookup and Online Ordering
Ducati Maintenance

Posted on Feb 04, 2016


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I have got toyota noah which wont start. the cranking its there. battery is good. there is no powere to fuel pump. fuse all ok. even changed the engine control unit.

If the vehicle is fitted with an immobiliser that could be the problem. Have you checked for a spark?

If an immobiliser is fitted the new engine ECU will have to be coded before it will work.

A wiring diagram is almost essential to diagnosing the problem. There is likely to be a relay controlling the supply to the fuel pump but what controls the relay? If the relay is controlled by the engine ECU there will be no supply until the immobiliser is disarmed.

If the vehicle was presented to me I would check for a spark and if a spark is present I would provide a temporary supply to the fuel pump to test if the engine starts, proving the fault is not immobiliser-related but a wiring or switching problem.

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Maybe this will help ---

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Fuel system wiring diagram

which engine? 2.5 or 4L ,,, always engine first...... ill post for 4liter.
the first test on all EFI, (varies rules) but here it is.
many cars only have power to the pump cranking and running (ONLY)
(crash and burn rules... dig it?)
so use the meter this time and crank.
fuses first check.

btw, has that, login and look, like us.
see schem linked here. its real simple and is online. (goggle)

this EFI pump in 1993, is 100% controlled by the ECU. at all times
Fuse 1, blown kills pump dead.
software (firm) in the ECU controls this.

if cranking , pump is dead, check coil for 12v, on fuel pump relay
if not 12v across coil, cranking the ECU is bad.
or ECU detects spark loss, again, crash and burn logic in the ECU.

the ecu monitors spark at all times. if bad it cuts fuel
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Could be a problem in the ignition circuit. Check or test coil and ignition module-one of them may be shutting down or shorting out when they get hot.
Verify by checking for spark at a plug wire immediately after it shuts off: if no spark, it is an ignition problem. Besides the coil and ignition module, other possibilities are the crank position sensor, cam position sensor, ecu, the ASD relay (automatic shuit down relay-it's in the power distribution box under hood). If that relay fails, all power is cut to coil and fuel injectors, and maybe the fuel pump also.
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I have a 2000 eclipse and the night before it ran fine. The next morning I went to start it and it cranks but that's about it. I checked for spark and after I cleaned the oil off there was spark, but...

Providing a accurate diagnosis is difficult. All previous advice could be correct.

I'd look into the fuel delivery issue first. The MPI (fuel pump) relay is controlled by the engine computer (ECU). If this is OK, your Check Engine Light should be off. A test with an OBD-2 code reader will tell if the ECU really is OK, and show any error codes.

If the ECU is OK, and the fuel pump is getting power, open the gas tank cap and see if this helps the car to start. (might be worn pump issues).

If you are actually getting fuel and spark, a no-start condition will generally throw an ECU error code, see above. There may be a crank or cam sensor that has failed.

The next thing to check is that the timing belt has not slipped a few teeth. This does happen. Your engine is probably a 4G64, and you MAY get away with it without bending valves. Or maybe not.

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I have an 89 ford ranger that i cant get the fuel pump to run. i jumperd after the relay and from after the relay the pump runs. i cant get tghe relay to work at all and i even put a new one on.

Hi, if the car runs with the jumper wire, maybe the wire from the ECU is bad. The pump is powered by the 30 amp fuse #1 in the box under the hood. The relay coil is powered by the EEC power relay, and receives it's ground connection from the ECU. If fuse 1 is good, odds are the relay is not getting the ground signal. You can verify this by connecting a test light to the positive battery terminal and probing the relay socket. The pump terminal will dimly light the test light, and when the key is on the ground signal from the ECU should make the light bright. If you don't get this light, either the ECU is not turning the pump on, or the wire from the ECU is bad. Going back to my first question--does the car run with the jumper? If yes, I would guess the wire is bad. If no, I would say there is a reason the ECU is not trying to turn on the pump--like maybe a security system or safety interlock. An easy way to force the relay to come on is to cut the tan/light green wire from the ECU and ground the side that goes to the relay. The pump will run when the key is on, but the ECU will noit be able to shut it off. Please let me know if you have questions.


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