I have the engine stripped down but cant split the engine. - how many components need to be removed

Yes, you will need to split the casing in order to replace the kick start shaft. The exact details of the process vary depending on the model of your dirt bike, but it will likely involve draining the engine oil, removing the side cover and clutch, and then removing the kick start shaft. Once the shaft is out, you can replace it with the new one and reassemble the engine.

Question edited for clarity.

Not many bikes have a strainer and if they do, it will mean stripping the engine and splitting the crankcases. As long as you change your oil, you don't need to worry about a strainer.

https://www.google.com/search?q=hardknock+kikker+remove+and+clean+oil+strainer

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Why do you need to strip out the diff for an oil pan? The pan is bolted to the engine block and may only be blocked by the Front Axle. Try this website. Repair Guides Engine Mechanical Components Oil Pan AutoZone com

if the split is just behind the prop then wont interfear with gears ? ! does the control lever move the connections on the engine ? if not look inside the control box , if yes then remove gear cable on the engine and move the linkage by hand and check if it goes in F n R , if yes then cable stretched or out of adjustment ! if not then remove the gearbox and check the gear rod ! mite have to strip the box and check inside !

Split nut remove bearing check threads on spindle if there ok replace nut if not replace spindle and nut & koter key

No, you do not need to remove the cylinders to fix the tranny.

Check for any splits on the rubber intake sleeve.this is what connects the carb to the bike.If this does not rectify the fault then strip down and clean the carb jets especially the idle jet as it may be slightly blocked causeing such symptoms.good luck

if it has a diaphram carb the dia.could be split
u may have a missfire-coil, leads or spark plugs may be braking down{run the engine in the dark u may then see sparks from the components] or water in the petrol.

Hi,
I think that the drum bearings have gone on the machine..
To open the door and spin the empty drum quickly by hand and you should hear the noise or say a less amplifed one.. Also another way to check is to move the inner durm up and down to see if there is any play in it
Check for bearing failure by seeing if there is any vertical movement between the moving stainless drum and the fixed outer drum. There should be no vertical movement between them - if there is the bearings have failed and will soon collapse. Check for rusty spray around where the pulley shaft enters the outer drum - early indication of seal and bearing failure. Another method of checking is to remove the drive belt and rotate the drum by hand - there should be no noise, roughness or resistance to rotation. Changing bearings is an involved job, only attempt if you are mechanically competent.
As for changing the bearings.
Power off, remove covers. Disconnect drive belt, remove drive pulley. Remove heater, thermostat and pressure switch. Check if drum splits at front, rear or the middle. If the drum is a plastic welded one- ie one which doesn't split, then its game over. If it splits at front or middle, drum will prob. need removal from machine. This involves dismantling the suspension and damping system and removal of door seal and concrete weights. Undo the drum fixing system - either a clamping ring or a series of peripheral bolts and split the drum. If the drum splits at the rear, removal from machine probably not required. Remove the clamping system and pull off the rear plate. Seal and bearings will come away with the plate. Seal needs to be dug out with a suitable lever and the old bearings hammered out with a punch from opposing sides of the backplate. Refitting is, as they say, a reversal of the above process.
However Unplug the appliance and take the top off.
Check the weight on the top to see if it's slack.
Open the door and with your palm upward put it on the edge of the drum.
Lift it until the weight comes on. Is there a lot of movement?
Press down on the inner drum and swing it side to side, does it sound/feel rough?
Finally, tip the machine rearward a little and from underneath check to see if the front weight is loose.
If all of the above are ok then it's likely the drum support spider has broken one of it's legs and the inner drum is knocking as it spins.
To sort this out you would need to strip the appliance down and remove the inner drum to try and change the bearings and the inner drum support.
This is a major strip down of the appliance.
Hope this helps

Thanks for contacting fixya.com

• drive shaft - 4
• wiith carrier br g-6
• crossmember2-4 removal from trans
• clutch slave cylinder -2
• trans to bell housing -4
• Shifter- floor screws -4
• shift stick - Under boot press down and rotate stick retainer cup
• Safety, ease of removal and damage prevention to engine components: SUPPORT REAR OF ENGINE.
• clutch pressure plat -6
• clutch pilot bushing - bronze- split w/small chisel- must replace- tap new bushinG into clean hole - lube with light amout of grease
• Clutch release brg. replace and properly situate on fork and retainers
• Note! check clutch disc for proper spline match with trans input shaft.
• Note, Use clutch pilot tool (Parts store available) to center clutch disc while tightening pressure plate.
• Check trans fluid level after assemby is complete. Good luck.FORCE NOTHING