Question about 2005 Suzuki Boulevard C90
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
yes, you are correct, those are the two pieces that could solve your problem, but i would go first for your cdi, you may choose to have it tested first also, before you jump out to buy a new one.
Posted on Nov 24, 2008
I have a '07 C90T.
I have just replaced my stator. I replaced the reg/rectifier earlier this year. I replaced the battery one year ago in October.
I firmly believe what started the problem. Two guys that I told I didn't need help, but they pressured me to let them help. They hooked a battery backwards to my bike. A lot of people believe that's what shortened the life of the rectifier and stator.
But keep this in mind. The connections for the regulator/rectifier are not waterproof. I had done a lot of rainy riding and I first found a burnt connector on the discharge side of the reg/rect. My mechanic told me I needed to replace the reg/rect so I did but I soldered the wires and made them waterproof. I didn't do this on the stator side of the reg/rect and a few months later, when the bike quit charging again, I found that connector burnt, so I cut it out and soldered and waterproofed it.
Two days after we got back from a 700 mile round trip to Red River, NM, my bike quit charging again. This time though, I have a voltage meter on the bike, so I was aware of the problem before the bike could strand me someplace. Get one of those btw.
When I checked the old stator after I replaced it, I found the stator good but the pulse signal generator bad. It's required that you replace both btw. You have to, they are joined at the grommet.
Ok well, the battery cost $60 last year and I replaced it myself.
The reg/rect cost $140 through my mechanic and I replaced it myself.
Got the stator online for $173 shipped and they advertise a better stator that puts out 20% more power.
Not counting little things like solder, tape, heatshrink and such, I'm out a little less than $375 on my charging system.
I hope it's a done deal.
Again, some think the problems began when the battery was hooked up wrong, but I lean to believe the sub-standard Suzuki connections may have a hand in this.
Hope this helps. . . Joe
Posted on Sep 28, 2009
I've got a 2006 and just found this while surfing around...
Realistically, diagnosing the problem behind a bike that won't start, can be a frustrating experience, as there are many potential problems that can create the same symptoms. Here are a couple of guidelines to help determine the root of a "labored" starting problem, and by "labored", we mean that the starter motor kicks in and attemps to turn the engine over, but either can't get it over the "hump", or does so with a lot more effort than usual.
If your battery is over two years old, and you CONSISTENTLY have a labored start, then the first suspect will be the battery.
If she starts cold with no problems, but CONSISTENTLY has labored starting while hot, then the charging system should be checked. A grounding rectifier can actually discharge your battery while you ride. The battery can somewhat recover while sitting, so it may well start the bike while its cold, but then not be able to start it after only a few miles of riding.
If everything on the bike seems to be in perfect order, and you OCCASIONALLY have a labored start, or no-start, for no apparent reason, and with no perceived pattern, then very likely, the rear decomp cam is loose. A good test for this is to place the bike in second or third gear when it won't crank, and push it backwards a few inches while in gear, then try again. If it starts then, you definately have a loose rear cam. Pushing the bike backwards while in gear moves the rear piston back off its compression stroke enough to give the system a running start at it when you push the button. This will only happen when the rear cylinder stops on its compression stroke. Therefore, it seems impossible to predict when it won't start. Might be cold, might be hot, might only happen once today, but maybe three times tomorrow...This occasional no-start is the prime indicator that the problem lies with the rear decomp cam. (If the front cam were out of adjustment, it would NEVER start properly, as both cams would then be off their specs.)
---Quoted from http://www.moccsplace.com/images/decomp/decomp.htm
Posted on Feb 15, 2010
Testimonial: "I thought it might be something with the compression stroke as well, it appeared to labor. Finally replaced the starter, hasn't given me a problem sin"
The site below (exploded views - part chart) should get you mobile again, see electrical and wiring harness sections . The rest of the bike is there also. Cheers.
Posted on May 20, 2010
Battery is good place to start, have had chg problems on both sides, last Stator i installed was fron Ricks Stators, and I done away with plug in (it had been hot before) used solder and shrink tubing, also had to correct a B problem by running new wire with fuse inline and replaced Gnd wire to eng Hsg this worked for about 1 year, then had an episode with Rectifier/Regulator, Used same brand to replace and extended wiring to mount in front of battery so it could get more air, and it charges better than it ever did, The c90 has some flaws in the ground connectors that i feel caused my problems (corrosion
Posted on Aug 25, 2010
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