Question about 2001 Yamaha SR 125

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1982 Yamaha sr250 runs great but when I come to a stop the idle will run up. I have worked on carb and replace almost every part inside.

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  • Yamaha Master
  • 40,026 Answers

Hi, Stephens1302 and the usual suspects are:
1. Throttle cables improperly adjusted, pinched or need lubrication.
2. Idle adjusting screw needs to be backed off.
4. Air fuel mixture adjusted too lean start with 2 full turns.
5. Intake system air leak.
6. Fast idle choke ramp is not releasing.
7. Broken throttle return spring.
8. Damaged diaphragm or slide.
9. Faulty MAP, TPS, ATS, O2, sensors or wiring/connector
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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82 GL1100 Idle speed increases LOTS
Yamaha SR250 Yamaha SR250G Years 1980 1983 Service Manual Download Manuals... $10
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-sr-owners-manuals

Posted on May 29, 2017

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  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 9 Answers

SOURCE: 2005 yamaha yzf 250-unstable idle

I had the same problem, Turns out that my shims were finished, replace the chims and check clearences.

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

SOURCE: 2003 yamaha wrf 250 carb problem

(1) You will need to adjust the float pin to get the correct amount of fuel in the float chamber of the carburator.
(2) You will also need to set the air-mixture screw , but before you do tht remove the spark plug and see whats the condition of it, is it black , is it brownish, or is it whitish.
If its blackish = means rich too much of fuel, if its browinsh= ok, if its whitish = its too lean.
(3) As for hesitation, check the needle at carbs piston on the accelerator cable, and blow the main jet with high pressure.
(4) Check too the spark plug gap and if its as per the manufacturers specs.

Hope this helps!

Posted on May 12, 2009

crnckshft
  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: vacuum hose that attaches to the fuel petcock behind fuel line

my 81 xj750 vacumm line attaches to a pip on the boot that attches it to the head. Have you investigated to diaphram in your fuel pet ****. I know mine had a small pin hole which made my idle weak at times. i even went as far as resynching the carbs and changing the plugs before i found it . just enough to bleed off vacuum . Hope that helps

Posted on Jun 10, 2009

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: yamaha blaster runs but wont rev

ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors.
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb.
Before putting the slide back in the throat of the carb, move the clip on the jet needle one notch lower. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.

849880b.gif Please rate this solution. Thanks!

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

  • 20 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 1972 Yamaha Enduro. When running, the

may be the packing

Posted on Sep 08, 2009

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I just got a 1981 yamaha sr 250 and the idle runs high i have lowered the ajustment screw but after a bit it runs high and then drops and stalls


Hi Tony,
It sounds to me like your diaphragm in the carb has a hole in it. take the cover off the top of the carb and lift the diaphragm, slide and needle out of the carb. Hold it up to a light and if you see any light through the diaphragm you will need to replace it. Remove the needle and fit it into the new slide which comes with the new diaphragm.
Don't waste your time trying to fix the old diaphragm. I have tried every trick in the book and i can assure you that in the end you will have to get a new one.This is not a cheap part, but it will be your only solution.
As for the compression problem, it could be valves or rings. Take a compression test and then squirt a little bit of sae 40 into the spark plug hole and then take another compression reading. If the compression improves after adding the oil it means that your rings need replacing. if it makes no difference, then it will probably be a valve problem.
good luck
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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
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find a running sr 250 and swop his cdi unit with yours if the bike runs, fine. if not put his cdi back in and try again. if the good bike now starts it will indicate that your cdi is faulty. the cdi is located under the tank inside the frame. don't buy a second hand cdi unless you can test it on a working bike. they are very expensive and you don't want to buy a dud

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Hi, Mblanchardd2 the vast majority of service, parts, and owners manuals on the internet are "FREE" to download and all service manuals contain wiring diagrams in the back pages. The rest usually charge a modest fee around $10 sometimes more and there is a handful of obscure, rare, obsolete, and very old models that are no longer or never were available, then there is eBay where you may be able to find what you need at a very high price because of its age and rarity. Most of the "FREE" manuals will cover your exact make, model, and year otherwise one will be provided that comes as close as possible to your bike and will have most of the same info that an exact manual would have.
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These bikes need the carbs ajdusted rather frequently, once they get out of adjustment the they juste don'e idle good. Also as old as this one is I can guess that you may have some air leaking around your some of the gaskets and this is why after it warms up it runs better, the gaskets get heated and the swell a little and then start sealing better. It would do you good this winter if you replaced all your intake and carb gaskets and get the carbs adjusted by a trained technicianan you will be ready to roll when summer comes around.

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