Question about 1989 Honda GL 1500 Gold Wing

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I have a 1988 1500 i am getting a noise like a rattle coming from the front wheel this is after i had a new tyre fitted checking the brake calipers i see that the right side is tight and the left side is very loose on the brackets is this right can the noise come from there its only noisy when i pull away

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The caliper should be bolted on tightly at the mounting points, but should float back and forth so the pads do not wear unevenly. Other things to check for odd front end rattles. Are your steering head bearings tight? That can cause rattling or knocking as well as handlebar shaking. A bad front wheel bearing can cause rattling or knocking (one side is bad and the wheel is twisting/rocking. Elevate the front wheel , grab it in the 10 and four position, and see of you can notice the wheel moving where the bearing hits the axle. Fork lower has worn out and the bushing is banging when it rocks. Rare but possible. Should see unusual wear on tube and movement wear tube meets lower. With wheel off , grab bottom of lower tube and top of lower tube check for movement.

Posted on Oct 08, 2010

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Front tyre makes noise while braking


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I have a 2000 chevy malibu. I recently replaced the front brake pads. After this when driving down the road when i hit bumps something in the frontend rattles, i can hear and feel it.. when i hit or ride...


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I have a noise coming from the left side front wheel are. It is a rattle - took it to a local Toyota dealership who said it was the steering RAC well that was a $1000 mistake because the noise did not...


1) Take car to non dealer shops willing to give FREE opinion

2) Not likely you have a shock in Driver Front wheel, more likely a strut. Not likely strut needs to be replaced, but strut has a STRUT MOUNT (3 bolts of which can be seen when opening your hood) below this it is connected to STRUT BEARING which below it connects to UPPER SEAT OF STRUT or SPRING INSULATOR, that if loose will rattle. Usually, shops will not tighten, because to tighten is same labor as replace the parts. (Since you already dropped $1000 on ToyotaDealer, ask them to tighten FOR FREE since rattle is still there.)

3) There is a part called a "link," connects strut to stablizer bar, that if bushings are bad will rattle.
4) If stabilizer bar bushing(s) bad, will rattle early on but eventually clunking
5) Bad ball joint or tie rod can rattle as well

Never permit any shop to do expensive work on your car w/o first getting a second opinion somewhere else first. Do not tell second shop that you are there for a second opinion.

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1) Bad tire in front, bad tires in front, verify inflation of tires
2) Wheel alignment may be out
3) Front suspension parts (mentioned several above)

Highway speed to suddenly braking shakes steering wheel
1) Front brake rotors need to be inspected for warping
2) Test calipers on empty road at 40 mph, going straight on very LEVEL ROAD, hit brake pedal SOMEWHAT hard while barely touching steering wheel. If car jerks to one side, instead of braking straight on, you may have a caliper, ABS, or brake fluid pressure regulator off.
3) If brake rotors are warped, may as well replace front brake pads at same moment. Use ceramic.
4) When you drive on VERY LEVEL road on highway, steering wheel must be centered, let go lightly of steering wheel. Did car stay in middle of lane? No? Get a 4-wheel alignment.

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If they are not worn beyond tollerance they can be machined on the vehicle.
Also make sure its not tyres or wheel bearings.

remove wheel
remove brake caliper( leave the hose connected)
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unscrew bearing hub nut
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refit rotor, outer bearing,washer,nut,lock, splitpin and centre cap
(tighten nut until no play in bearing plus 1\8 of a turn)
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Grinding noise comming from front passenger side. 2001 saturn L


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MOT Test


a) Sitting on machine check:1. All controls switches and horn 2. Front suspension forks handlebars and head bearings. b) At the front of the machine check: 1. Front lights and indicators 2. Front brake master cylinder (if fitted) c) Place the machine on its stand and raise front wheel check: 1. Steering, front forks and head bearings 2. Front brake and wheel bearings 3. Wheel and tyre condition. d) Lower front wheel and go to right side of vehicle and check: 1. Frame, VIN, seat and foot rest 2. Exhaust system 3. Final drive (if fitted to RHS of machine) 4. Rear wheel, tyre and brake e) Raise the rear wheel and check: 1. Rear wheel, rear brake/components and tyre condition. 2. Rear suspension and final drive f) At the rear check: 1. Rear position lamp(s)/stop lamp(s)/reflectors and indicators. 2. Rear suspension. 3. Registration Plate g) On the left of the machine check: 1. Frame and foot rest 2. Exhaust system 3. Final drive (if fitted to LHS of machine) 4. Rear wheel, tyre and brake. h) At the front of the machine check: 1. Wheel alignment 2. Headlamp aim 3. Brake performance,,,

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Brakes


first make sure to ask if the cv joints or axels are new or rebuilt,
if they are rebuilt, make sure to have the ring close to the sensor inspect for posible crack on it, and on the brake light most of timesx they come with a wear sensor, make sure that sensor is been replaced, since here you are not explaning if you replace the brakes your self or a shop did it, you might explained but i did not see it or pay atention , any way make sure to doble check than the wear sensor for brakes is been replaced, since not all the auto repairs will do it, and finally i suspect than one of your calipers might be loose, just have your car take to a diferent auto repair than offer free brake inspection and have them check for posible loose calipers

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