Question about 2004 BMW R 1150 RT (ABS)

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Have a 04 R1150Rt whose transmission has gone out twice within the lst 15000 miles. the first time had to do with clutch plate splines and input shaft, Second event similar to the first. Can move through gears, but drive will not engage. Engine running fine. Have not repaired bike since second failure. Rearend bearings have not blown yet, but I have been warned to expect failure there at around 20000 miles. I expect transmission failure throughout life of bike, even after thousands of dollars of dealer fixes and in shop. I am already out 1700 dollars on first repair which got me back on the road for 3000 miles. Preparing for more shaft work by dealer whose estimates are 2200-2900 dollars. Perhaps at that cost I can be back on the road for 12000miles before the splines go again. But within 5k miles, the rearend is expected to fail according to local mechanic who works on bmw police bikes. I am the original owner of the bike. I contacted BMW Corporate who stated my bike is out of warranty, they know of no inherent problems with their transmissions, and there was no recalls on their transmissions for 04 model. Do you know of anyone who will completely rebuild the transmission and guarantee their work for 100% up to 30000 miles? 3k,5k,or 12k miles will not due it for me. It is dangerous having transmission failure on high traffic freeway.

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  • David Belcher
    David Belcher Oct 07, 2010

    Either fix it and trade it in on a different model or buy an extended warranty for future repairs.



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Who rebuild the transmission the first time? Was it done at a BMW dealer? Work done by an authorized dealer is warranted for 2 years from date of repair. If work was done by an reputable independent shop, I would think they would at least warranty the labor

If you replaced the input shaft, and clutch disc with the original repair, it is very hard to believe that it has failed again in only 3000 miles. Remove the starter motor on the LHS of the engine/trans and take a look inside.

If you live in the eastern US, you can try Anton. He seems to have a good reputation and is an independent shop.

Posted on Oct 07, 2010

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Just wonder... did you get it fixed ???

Posted on Mar 30, 2011


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2007 Mitsubishi eclipse clutch was slipping but put in new clutch throw out bearing pressure plate had flywheel shaved now I have no gears checked gear oil it's level bleed lines and still no gears

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The transmission input shaft may be binding on the clutch disc splines-because the transmission may be tilted down too much. Keep the transmission at same level and tilt as the engine, then pull straight back until the input shaft clears the clutch disc and pressure plate.
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I have fitted new clutch and pressure plates, (twice!) flywheel surfaced,new release and spiggot brgs, new master and slave cyl kits. Cannot engage gears with engine running, Stop engine, engage gear and...


It sounds like during installation one of 3 things could have happened.
1) The splines got messed up stabbing the transmission, or
2) the plate got bent itself or
3) the plate is in backwards
Also If you do have leaking on your master cylinder then that will be your problem obviously.
Your master cylinder is designed to compress DOT3 Fluid with one cylinder piston, against another cylinder piston which creates force against a clutch fork that presses your throw out bearing. Your TOB then presses against your clutches pressure plate, the pressure plate releases from the clutch disk which is transferring torque into transmission from your engine. Now you have gears within your transmission that are moving at two different speeds, and a synchronizer within your transmission slips onto teeth to match those two speeds and to lock the gears to a shaft and transfer your torque to an output shaft and then on wards towards your differential gear and thus to your wheels etc.

SO, if your clutch isnt being released enough to allow your synchronizers to lock onto the wanted gear, then its obviously not going to go into gear.
You could try and bleed it one more time but it sounds like the disc is hanging up and not allowing the transmission to spin freely. Either the clutch free play needs adjusting (non-hydraulic clutch) or the pressure plate is not stopping the flywheel and will need replaced. Try adjusting the pushrod between the pedal & master to give you more clutch travel.

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May 11, 2011 | Nissan Titan Cars & Trucks

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Clutch is worn out. How hard is this to repair myself?

You will have to a floor jack to jack the transmission up, to unbolt and pull the transmission, Un bolt the pressure plates and pull off the clutch and pressure plate assembly. To reassemble you have to use a clutch alighnment tool, place the new clutch disk against the flywheel, insert the alighnment toll and bolt down the new pressure plates. Reinstall the transmission by turning the back spline to alighn the front spline(must be in first gear not neutral) slide into position and bolt back in place. There will be a cross member with a rubber mount going to the transmission that will need to be removed first thing.

Feb 24, 2011 | 1996 Geo Prizm

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Repairing linkeage on 89 VX fox

If by fixing the clutch you mean replacing it ?
Replacing the clutch is relatively straightforward:
Parts needed:
Throwout bearing
Transmission clutch kit including pressure plate and driven plate
rear main seal for the engine
rear transmission mount rubber.
Shifter linkage rebuild kit ($20 bux from the parts place, google on web)
3 qts redline MTL transmission oil
17 mm hex wrench to drain and replace fluid (think Sears here)
Borrow of buy a clutch alignment tool (no not the rabbit style)
With vehicle on ground loosen the front wheel hub nuts (they are on VERY tight >150Lbs/ft torque)
Remove the battery ground connection after noting any radio securoty codes you may have.
Chock the wheels , jack up the front of the vehicle, secure on jackstands.
remove the drive shafts on both sides baggie the CVs so you don't contaminate them.
Mark and emove the starter wires, remove the starter.
If starter is old consider getting it rebuilt at this time.
remove the shifter linkages, replace all the worn plastic bits, bag and lay aside.
Support the engine with a floor jack. Loosen the front engine snubber mount (near the crankshaft pullry)
remove the transmsiion mount (looks like a sqaushed starred donut) under drivers feet (approximately) Remove the mount bracket
I suggest you renew the mount at this time
Remove the clutch cable from the clutch lever
remove the bolts holding the tranny to the engine
Lower the engine at the rear
SUPPORT the transmission and slide the unit off the pilot bushing. PUT NO PRESSURE on the transmission input shaft!!!
Lower tranny to ground and remove from under unit.
mark the pressure plate (clutch cover) as to orientation with a witness mark. Remove it and the clutch driven plate, don't breathe the dust. (BAD for humans) Note the driven plates spline orientation.
Clean the pilot bushing in the center with carb cleaner, regrease when dry with a smear of MOS2 greas (black and ugly type) Not too much just a thin smear.
Clean the transmission shaft with WD40 or Kerosene, dry with clean rag.
Remove and replace the throwout bearing, if you've been breaking clutch cables lately the pivot point on the side of the case where the thowout shaft lives is dirty. It needs to be cleaned w/cleaner and lubed with MOS2 grease.
Place the clutch plate in position, make sure you get the splines oriented correctly.
Clean the steel surface of the clutch pressure plate with a light hydrocarbon like lighter fluid, no grease here... I've used starting fluid here in a pinch, no smoking ;-)
Place the clutch cover (new unit? orient the same as the old one) over the plate. Use the tool to center the plate under the cover. If you mis-align the plate putting the unit back together will be a painful experience... so be careful, check your work. Tighten the plate into position, use a cross pattern on the bolts. Don't be sloppy here , a bolt coming loose would be bad $$$$$...
Add a small amount of grease onto the transmission input splines. This helps the clutch action, not a lot just a bit to make the shaft shiny.
If you're strong enough you can lift the transmission into position and slide it onto the plate splines. Otherwise use a floor jack to lift into position. Put the tranny in gear so that you can spin the axel adapter to move the shaft splines to get them to align.
Reverse this procedure to finish up.
I recommend driving the car after initially adjusting the pedal for 12mm or 1/2 free play. Drive the car and re-adjust as needed.
Get the transmission hot by driving for an hour.
Drain the fluid.
replace the bottom plug after it stops dripping
Add fluid to the side plug till the fluid runs out. replace the plug.
Enjoy the new clutch.

Dec 18, 2010 | 1989 Volkswagen Fox 4 Door

1 Answer

How does clutch work

Your clutch is both complicated and simple ( confused? That's because there are many types and variations of clutches)
OK, I'll give you the simplest version.
When you step on the clutch pedal, it is either attached to mechanical linkage, a cable, or a master cylinder that works the same as the one for your brakes. Jeeps use a master cylinder.
The fluid pressure at the master cylinder pushes a slave cylinder on the bellhousing (just like the wheel cylinder on a drum brake...only difference is that a wheel cylinder has a piston on each end, a clutch slave has one piston) When you make the piston move, it pushes on a part called a clutch fork which is a simple lever...push on one end and the other end travels in the opposite direction. That lever is attached to a bearing (called a throwout bearing) that is positioned around the input shaft of the transmission, sliding back and forth on it. When the bearing is pushed against "fingers" on the clutch pressure plate assembly, it forces the actual plate to move back away from the clutch disc. The disc is normally held tightly sandwhiched between the plate and the flywheel by springs in the plate cover.
Further clamping force is sometimes applied by counter weights on the "fingers" that react to engine rpm. (depending upon clutch design)
So, when you step down on the pedal, you are moving the slave piston, the fork and the bearing which causes the clamping force on the disc to be relieved, allowing it to spin free and since it is connected to the input shaft of the transmission which is splined so the disc (also splined)can drive it. Bottom line is that when the disc is compressed between the flywheel and the pressure plate it turns the transmission gears, moving the car. When you push the clutch pedal down, it releases that pressure and no power goes into the transmission.
Jeep also uses an alternative design that eliminated the clutch fork but essentially everything else still works the same.

Oct 15, 2010 | 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

I have a 97 jeep wrangler with I-4 manual trans. Rattle in trans at a stop with clutch in and out. at one time there was a whine also but now that is gone. I dont drive this much. only 52,000 miles on her....

Rember when you press the clutch in, the pressure plate releices the clutch disc and input shaft in the transmission. If you still have noise, It can only be either a broken spring on the pressure plate or the throw out berring. Neither can be serviced. There is a fill plug on the side, It takes ATF

Jun 18, 2010 | 2004 Jeep Wrangler

1 Answer

How to remove the pressure plate or throw out bearing from the input shaft on a 2002 sebring 3.0 engine

These parts are for a manual clutch.
First, you will have to remove the transmission. This requires a special jack, because of the size and shape.
The pressure plate comes off by itself when you remove the tranny, because it floats on the shaft next to the splines, which will have to be replaced also (in the clutch kit). The spline plate has bolts around it holding it on, and comes off with a socket wrench.
The throwout bearing will need to be removed with a slide-hammer. You can borrow one from some auto parts stores. I bought one for under $20 at Harbor Frieght...They can go for over $150. The bearing is made of brass, and is soft, so be careful putting in the new one. Use a wood drift, not metal.
The clutch parts are easy to deal with. Removing the transmission will be the challenge. Drain it first.
Good Luck!

Feb 01, 2010 | 2002 Chrysler Sebring

1 Answer

I have a Volvo S40 2.0 diesel manual and have difficulty in selecting reverse gear from cold. The vehicle has done 36000 miles only

clutch hydraulics should be ok could be clutch plate sticking on input shaft splines i would drain and refill gearbox with correct grade of oil then try it try putting clutch down wait a few seconds before selecting reverse see if this helps you

Nov 09, 2009 | 2002 Volvo S40

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