Question about Harley Davidson FXDBI Street Bob Motorcycles
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
hi.generally speaking hydraulic brakes are very simple,the biggest problem is air in the system,here is how i bleed up brakes (same process for front or rear),,remove the resovoir cap(clean around it first so no contaminants get into the fluid),,top up the fluid from a new bottle(fluid that has been exsposed to the air will absorb moisture and this results in a spongy feel at the lever),,pump the lever 3 or 4 times,,,then while holding the lever on,crack(undo)the bolt coming out of the master cylinder(its a banjo type bolt that holds the hydraulic line onto the master cylinder),,you should see air and fluid escpe from around the bolt,repeat this process untill all the air is gone(the master cylinder should now be bled and free of air)now go to your brake caliper locate the bleed nipple and repeat the procedure,so pump the lever a few times untill you feel pressure then crack the bleed nipple,you shouls see air and fluid escaping,remember to retighten the bleed nipple before letting the lever go or you will **** air back into the system,oh and remember to keep the resovoir full when you are doing this ,if you let the fluid level get to low it will **** air back into the system,,another point ,,clean up the brake fluid off all surfaces (especially paint)with warm soapy water straight away as brake fluid is the best paint stripper that i know of,,if you follow the above procedure you should have brakes(unless there is a problem in the caliper)but that is not normally the case,,good luck and hope this helps
Posted on Jul 31, 2009
Usually the oil tanks hold three quarts of oil and the transmission holds 20-24 ounces. Check the engine oil with the bike on the stand. The dip stick has two marks on it. The upper mark is "Full Hot" and the lower mark is "Full Cold". Maintain the oil level between these two marks. Do not overfill.
The transmission has also has a dipstick to check the level with. It's a plug that takes a 3/8" hex key to remove. Check the level with the bike standing straight up. Level should be between the end of the dipstick and the mark.
Posted on Jun 23, 2010
Did the kit come with a new needle? It sounds like it's a little lean in the mid-range. I'd pull the slide out and take the needle out of the slide. From the long end of the needle, slide a 3mm flat washer up onto the needle. Use a small dab of grease to hold it on the needle while you put it back in the slide. The small washer should be about 0.020"-0.025" thick. This will RAISE the needle just slightly enriching the mixture just a bit in the mid-range. It will not change your idle setting nor the wide open throttle jetting.
Posted on Sep 09, 2010
SOURCE: I have an Arlen Ness
It is best to oil the filter on most of the after market air filters to catch the finer particles of dirt that might otherwise get through the filter. As to what to use, since I'm not familiar with that particular filter, it depends on what the filter is made of.
If the filter is made of foam rubber, you can purchase both the foam air filter cleaner and the foam air filter oil with which to keep the filter clean and ready for use. Most any place that sells off road motorcycle accessories should have this stuff. If your filter is a cloth type filter, like a K&N, filter, K&N sells both a cleaner and an oil. Personally, on these filters I use a cleaner like Dawn dishwashing liquid. Wash and dry the fillter well and then LIGHTLY spray the filter with the K&N oil. A little goes a long way.
Do not under any circumstances use automatic transmission fluid to oil your filters. It is a petroleum product and will damage the expensive filters.
Posted on Mar 17, 2011
SOURCE: i have a 93 lowrider
Running sluggish even after adding air cleaner, this is poor fuel delivery.The carb needs to be cleaned and then checked.This should help.Keep updated.Thanks.Helpmech.
Posted on May 24, 2011
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