Question about Harley Davidson FLHT Electra Glide Standard Motorcycles

1 Answer

Bike won't start. Clicking in relay. Changed relay, Solenoid and battery.

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  • wd4ity
    wd4ity Oct 05, 2010

    what model and year.

    Steve

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  • Harley Davidson Master
  • 43,908 Answers

Hi Jeanders, and the usual suspects are:
1.Ignition/Light Key Switch not in IGNITION position.
2.Engine Stop switch in the OFF position.
3.Discharged battery, loose or corroded connections check negative cable at "BOTH" ends. (solenoid chatters).
4. Bank Angle Sensor tripped and Ignition/Light Key Switch not cycled to Off and then back to on.
5. Starter control circuit, relay or solenoid faulty.
6. Electric starter shaft pinion gear not engaging or over-running clutch slipping.
7. Security alarm not disarming
For a prime suspect please visit website below. Good luck and have nice day.
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Posted on Jun 21, 2015

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6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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goalie39
  • 469 Answers

SOURCE: Bike won't start/clicking coming from starter relay

Have you tried charging the battery or jumpstarting it with another battery?

Posted on Apr 13, 2009

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: bike wont start replace start solenoid.when

You didn't mention what year model your bike is so I'll just generalize my response. Since you said that you replaced the solenoid, I'll assume that your bike is a 1988 model or earlier.

Your bike has a starter relay if it still has the stock wiring on it. Harley has used a starter relay since 1965 on the first model of ElectraGlide. Usually, it's underneath the battery tray or the seat or around that area.

On the back of your solenoid, you have three wire connections. Two very large connectors and one small connector. Make sure your bike is out of gear (in neutral) and use an old screwdriver to short between the large connector that comes from the battery and the small wire connection. The starter should engage and try to start the engine. If the ignition switch is on, it will start the engine. The starter will turn using this method with or without the switch being in the "on" position. If the starter works using this method, the problem is in either the relay or the neutral switch. If the starter does not turn the engine over, the problem is in the solenoid.

Now, let's check a few things. The small connector on the back of the solenoid should have a green or pink (depending on year) wire on it. Using a voltmeter or a test light, make sure you have voltage at the connector when you press the starter button with the switch in the "ON' position. If not, follow the wire to it's source, the relay.

The starter relay can be one of several different designs used throughout the years. It could be a small plastic cube, a small metal can, or a round phonelic relay. The relay should have four connections on it. A "hot" wire, a wire from the handlebar switch, the wire going to the starter, and a ground. The ground may be through the case itself. On the older Shovelhead bikes (1984 and earlier) there was a small short black wire that ran from the starter relay to the transmission for the ground. This wire must be intact or the relay would not work due to lack of a ground.

When you turn the switch on, one of the wires to the starter relay should become "hot". When you press the start button, you should hear a slight click and another of the smaller wires should now be "hot" as well, the one going to the starter.

On some year (1972 and later) models, the neutral switch was wired in with the starter relay. This was to prevent the bike from starting while "in gear" by disabling the relay. You'll have to figure this one out for yourself since I don't know what year model your bike is.

Now, you said you had power to the solenoid when you pushed the starter switch. So, let's assume that the starter failed the first test to told you aboue. If so, the problem is still most likely in the solenoid. Inside the solenoid, there is a large plunger with a copper disc on it. When you depress the starter switch, the coil in the solenoid becomes magnetized and pulls the plunger towards the back of the solenoid. This does two things, it engages the starter drive with the ring gear on the outer clutch drum and makes a high current electrical connection. The copper disc makes contact between the two large connections on the back of the solenoid from the inside. This connects the battery to the starter motor through the solenoid. If the black phonelic plate on the back of the solenoid is cracked or the contacts inside of it are badly burned, it will not work.

Now, if the solenoid is working correctly and you are getting voltage to your starter, it could be the brushes or something inside the starter. This is indicated if the starter trys to turn the engine over but just can't. It won't have enough power if the starter field windings are bad.

I hope I've given you something here that will help you solve your problem. This is basically the electrical part of the starter system. There are mechanical parts as well. If you hear the starter turning but the engine doesn't turn over, you have a mechanical problem. You can either repost or you can contact me directly at wd4ity@bellsouth.net I'll help if I can. Good Luck!

Posted on Nov 05, 2009

Adrian762
  • 425 Answers

SOURCE: hi bike not starting solenoid just clicking ????

Go to http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp , and get yourself a (free) manual.

Posted on Dec 31, 2009

  • 221 Answers

SOURCE: Harley won't start.

A harley AGM battery are usaully good for three to five years the best thing to do is have the battery load tested.Now as far as your problem now depending on the batterys state of charge the solenoid will click or not.Because you store it alot you should keep a trickle charger on the battery

Posted on Apr 11, 2010

Testimonial: "Thanks for the advice, gives me a direction to pursue. Will have battery tested and hopefully that is all it is."

asthanarht
  • 258 Answers

SOURCE: My 2005 Suzuki Boulevard Will not start most of

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Posted on May 08, 2010

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2.Engine Stop switch in the OFF position.
3.Discharged battery, loose or corroded connections check negative cable at both ends. (solenoid chatters).
4. Bank Angle Sensor tripped and Ignition/Light Key Switch not cycled to Off and then back to on.
5. Starter control circuit, relay or solenoid faulty.
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For a prime suspect please visit website below and good Luck.
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Motorcycle solenoid just clicks


Hi, Trevorelgram you turn on the ignition switch press the starter button and all you get is the dreaded "CLICK" now before testing any electrical component in the Starter System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries and the usual suspects are:
1. Battery terminals have loose or corroded connections.
2. Battery cables faulty due corroded or broken internal wiring at the cable connector especially the "NEGATIVE" cable which needs to be checked at "BOTH" ends.
3. Battery voltage, must be 12.5 volts or better, voltage from the battery to the main circuit breaker to the ignition switch to the security/ignition fuse to the TSM/TSSM module to the engine stop/run switch to the starter button to the starter relay to the green wire that connects to the starter solenoid must not drop more than 1/2 volt of battery voltage.
4. Disconnect spark plug cables, with a voltmeter connected to the battery, the ignition switch in the on position, the kill switch in the run position, the starter button depressed, starter engagement should not bring voltage below 9.6 volts DC. If the voltage is below 9.6 the battery is faulty and must be replaced. I "HIGHLY" recommend a maintenance free AGM battery typically they have more amperage for cranking.
5. Faulty starter relay, check continuity.
6. Faulty starter solenoid, check contact plate and shoes for excessive electrical erosion/etching, refurbish as necessary or invert contact plate and use the virgin backside. Check contact shoes for being loose. Replace solenoid if the negative function is still a final outcome.
7. Faulty starter, bench test starter with a 12-volt battery if negative function check, decontaminate and undercut armature commutator segments as necessary, check segments with an ohmmeter probe each one and the segment next to it for shorts. Have the armature tested with a growler and field coils, and brush plate with an ohm-meter for opens, shorts or grounds. Replace brushes if less than .438" It is generally cheaper to overhaul/refurbish a starter motor than buying a new one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1 Answer

Bike won't start, new Harley battery, and starter bike 2006 FLHX Street Glide, all I get is a clicking noise from solenoid under seat


I'm not too familiar with the later model bikes but if I were getting a clicking noise under the seat and the bike was not starting, I'd investigate the source of the noise. It's possible that it is a starter relay that engages the solenoid that is an integral part of the starter. Look at the starter from the right hand side of your bike. You'll see a single small wire that connects to the end of the starter just above the end plate of the solenoid. Disconnect this wire and connect a test light or volt meter to the wire. Turn on your ignition switch and press the start button. You should hear the click under the seat and see voltage at the end of that wire. If not, replace the relay, a plastic cube about an inch in dimension.

Good Luck
Steve

Jul 02, 2011 | Harley Davidson Storm 50 Motorcycles

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Self Start problem...


Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Your description is the starter relay making the clicking sound. Problem could be any of 2 possibilities:
  • starter relay/solenoid; and/or
  • starter motor.
To determine which, jump the 2 big terminals of the starter relay/solenoid when starting the bike; if the motor turns, the relay/solenoid is defective; if the starter motor does not turn, the starter motor is defective (most likely the carbon brushes).

Of course other possibilities still exist, such as:
  • loose, corroded battery terminals, relay, starter terminal/connectors;
  • weak battery.
  • open, corroded fuse/fuse terminals.
Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.

Jan 17, 2009 | 2006 Hero Honda Karizma

2 Answers

Clicking noise when starting


Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Your description could be any of 2 possibilities:
  • starter relay/solenoid; and/or
  • starter motor.
To determine which, jump the 2 bog terminals of the starter relay when starting the bike; if the motor turns, the relay/solenoid is defective; if the starter motor does not turn, the starter motor is defective (most likely the carbon brushes).

To determine the location of the starter relay/solenoid, follow the clicking sound and would look like the image below.
d02de17.jpg

While the starter motor would look like this
47b927f.jpg
Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa. Happy Holidays.

Dec 23, 2008 | 2000 Yamaha YZF-R1

1 Answer

Would not start...just suddenly. Now clicking under the dash..relay I assume. Replaced relay, no change, still won't start, not the battery. Lights surge off and on, dash works off and on.


Changed the starter and solenoid one time. Cranked and started two times normal. The third time it did not crank, just a clicking from the dash. Checked where the clicking was coming from and found out the solenoid on the fire wall was it. Changed that part but it still did not crank just clicked. There are two soleoinds on this truck, one on top of the starter and the other one in front top of the fire wall. There the battery cables connect to that solenoid to the starter and the alternter. The truck has power to everything, just will not start.

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