Question about 2006 Yamaha XT 125 R
Hi, Scoobywrxlj5 and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Faulty main circuit breaker and or connections.
4. Faulty ignition coil and or connections.
5. Faulty spark plug, oil or gas fouled, wrong heat range or service type, wrong gap, loose in the cylinder head, broken electrode or insulator.
6. Faulty spark plug cables, leaking or broken, internal damage check for spark leakage in the dark.
7. Faulty ignition module, switch, CKP, MAP, CMP, sensor and or any connector in the ignition circuit could have corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets
8. Burnt exhaust valve or air leak in the exhaust system.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Posted on May 29, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sounds like a battery that will not hold a charge, not enough left in the morning for a good spark. Once running for a short bit the battery gets recharged so the bike starts all day. Then the battery dissipates the charge overnight. Try a morning jump start from your car battery.
Before you spend $50 or so on a battery, look to see if there is water covering the top of the battery plates. If so then the current battery needs to be replaced. If not, add water to cover the top of the plates and ride it for a day. See if it holds a charge now. Battery may still be bad but it was worth a shot.
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).
Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.
Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
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Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.
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Posted on Apr 27, 2009
It seems the float chamber of the carbs are not getting enough fuel (gas).
Try to check this first by opening the carburator float chamber drain screws....thn select the petcock to 'prime' positon and see if theres fuel running out of those drain screws freely.If not thn it time to clean the carbs.
Not bad too to remove the spark plugs and clean them and regap.
Hope this helps!
Posted on Jul 13, 2009
fuse should be next to the battery. inline in the red wire .have you connected the leads properly? red to plus and black to minus?
Posted on Mar 07, 2010
Listen near the solenoid while trying to start--if you get a fairly loud 'click', the primary circuit is ok, but the solenoid heavy contacts are not making--repair or replace the solenoid if sealed. If no click, check the small terminals with a test light. The light should go out on one when the start switch is pushed. If the light never comes on, check the other small terminal--it should be lit at all times whenever the ignition switch is on, even when the start switch is pushed. If it goes out too, there is a poor connection between the ignition switch and the solenoid. If neither terminal loses power, trace the start button circuit back to the solenoid. It is likely open somewhere between--usually a push-together connection. Hope this make sense and helps!
Posted on May 07, 2010
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