How do I change a brush? I can't get the axle locked to get the nut off. Can you help me?

raise and support the pickup. remove tire. remove brake caliber. remove
rotor. unbolt axle and remove. remove lock clip. remove axle lock nut
2 and 9/16. pull bearing assembly. remove and replace seal. clean up
all parts has they will prob be oily. replace lock nut (2 and 9/16) and lock
clip, from your dodge dealer. check rear end lube when all back together
has you will lose some.

Jack up car and apply e-brake. car will roll if one of the front tires leaves the ground. remove tire , spindal nut and lower ball joint bolts. remove axle from hub then use a prybar to pop it out of trans. the passenger side will have a braket holding axle to engine , remove bolts from braket or squeeze snap-ring to rmove axle from braket.

Remove the bolts or nuts at the end of the axle and remove the axle from the axle tube. There will be a little gear lube that will come out that you will need to replace before you use the vehicle again after you replace the wheel seal. That will expose the axle nuts to the axle hub that you will need to remove to replace the inner wheel seal. It's basically very simple once you get the axle out you will see how it all comes apart. Be sure to torque the axle nut and locking nut correctly upon reassembly.

The quick release axles on this chair have an adjusting nut on the outside end to adjust the length. The nut may have a disc cover on it for decoration. To adjust the axle length hold the end with the two balls on it with an adjustable crescent wrench set for the axle diameter and at the location of the balls. This way when you adjust the nut, the axle will turn until the balls contact the crescent wrench and the axle will stop turning. Turning the nut counterclockwise will lengthen the axle. All the nuts require a 3/4" wrench. Once you have made the axle longer you may need to put a washer between the hub and the axle receiver to keep the hub from rubbing.
In my experience, the hub may be rubbing because the camber tube is not even where the frame connects/clamps to it. Loosen the camber tube mounting bolts or clamps. Measure both sides and correct by marking the original camber tube position first, then adjust left to right for even spacing. Only adjust left to right do not rotate the camber tube since that will change the camber (unless you have zero camber). If you lengthen the axles this way check that the new adjustment allows the axle to lock in the camber tube. Tug on the wheel to make sure it is locked in the tube before getting in to ride. Hope this helps.

first jack up side you will be working on and place jjackstand under the frame, next remove the wheel,to make it easier remove the caliper and tie away, dont remove the brake hose!, then remove the rotor it slides off you may need to tap backside with a hammer, next is to remove the bolt and nut from the lower balljoint, then use balljiont tool to saperate the lower control arm from spindle, you may need a pry bar to pull down on control arm to completly separte move spindle to side and let arm up, next remove the axle (cv) nut on the front, then use pry bar to pop out of trany, install new axle hold straight and slide into tray as far as you can then with nut on the axle a little tap to axle in to trany the rest of the way you will feel it go in and lock and then reverse direction to put back together, hope this helps.

remove front wheel, remove nut on cv joint, next remove bolt from lower balljoint, break free to sperate balljoint from spindle, use a fork and hammer and a pry bar to pry lower arm out of the spindle, pull sindle back and slide axle out of hub, use wire to tie spindle back out of the way as far as it will go, caution of abs wire and brake hose, dont pull to far away, next use a long pry bar and go between back of axle joint and trany, give a quick pry to pop out of trany, to install new one apply grease to the lock ring on the end of axle that goes into trany, center the clip best you can, slide into trany then at other hit with a hammer you may want to put nut on so not to damage threads, you will feel axle pop in and lock, reverse order to put together. hope this helps.

Set the bike on its center stand, then loosen the rear axle by removing cotter pin from hex nut and loosening the nut. There are two adjustment bolts, with lock nuts - one on each side of the rear axle. They are easily work with from the rear of the bike. Loosen the lock nuts and turn the adjustment bolts clockwise. this will draw the rear axle (wheel) backwards - tightening the chain. Take care to turn each side the same amount, so the rear wheel remains straight. Usually the flex in the chain should be about a quarter inch. After adjusting, tighten lock nuts to hold position of rear axle and tighten the axle nut, replace cotter pin.

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I'm not positive what type axle you have but the order of parts should be the anti lock free running hub assembly, a lock washer then the wheel bearing lock nut. The lock nut could look like a thick washer with 5 or 6 holes in it.
But depending on your front axle you may have a rotor and hub assembly that's a single unit or they could be separate. If they are separate then you may need a sledge hammer to get the rotors off. Ford's front rotors can be a real pain in the a$$ to get loose. Regardless which type you have if the order of what you have taken off so far matches what I said then washer is probably the locking nut. The only way to get it off is a special spanner wrench or a punch and hammer. If you are still uncertain about it let me know and give the axle make and type and I'll be glad to help.
Good luck
If

reomve tire securing the vehicle with tire hanging at it's lowest possition, remove the brake caliper & brake disc , remove nut lock on axle also axle nut , mark and remove strut bolts and push strut out remove ball joint lower bolt and use a fork ( tooling) seperate from hub slide hub off of axle , reverse steps to replace .

If you drove this truck with a lose wheel bearing you will have to change the bearing/hub. Now the large nut in the center of the axle is reuseable. I have been doing it for years and never had to replace one unless I had to change the axle itself. The nut is locked in place by a castle nut, it is pressed out of steel. The cotter pin passes through the castle nut to lock it in place. You can pick one up at any wrecking yard if you want to remove it. The nut size is a 32- 36 mm. I'm in Canada. And most auto stores like Parts pro? will lend the tool out for free. They also have online video to help you repair the axle. I hope this helps. If you take on the repair, you can spend a good afternoon on it if you are not use to doing that kind of work. Let me know how you make out.