Question about 2005 Suzuki RM-Z 250

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I have an RMZ-250 and I took a rock into the motor case that caused a chip to bread out of where one of the water pump housing bolts to chip away. Now it leaks. Is there a fix without replaceing the complete lower case?

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You can go to Autozone and get an epoxy. You really need to get all of the water out of the system to make the epoxy stick. If you go to Autozone tell them that you need an epoxy for forged aluminum. That is what the case is made of. It is best if you can epoxy both sides of the case.

Posted on Sep 28, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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My 2004 rmz 250 4 stroke lost power died went to kick it over and it locked up what causes that?


Hi, William you may have hydraulic lock caused by excessive liquid in the cylinder or you have squeaked your top end this is commonly known as "HEAT SEIZE" the piston heats up expands and becomes extremely tight in the cylinder bore and usually occurs mainly on 2 cycle engines right after a fresh top end rebuild, but it can also happen to brand new motorcycles, these are rare instances due to better quality control and education. Overheating failures that cause pistons to seize are many and each one should be carefully diagnosed to prevent future repeat offenders and the usual suspects are:
1. Lack of lubrication due to low or no oil.
2. Among the causes of lack of cylinder, lubrication is clogging of lubricator by dirt or waste, obstruction in oil pipes/lines, leaky check valves, leaky pump packing, broken oil pipe/line, oil too cold to feed.
3. Wrong type of oil used in premix or oil tank.
4. Improper premix ratio you should start with 32:1 as a baseline.
5. New rebuild piston to cylinder tolerances set up too tight.
6. Failure to follow proper break in procedures with a 16:1 premix ratio.
7. Loose fasteners causing intake, base, or head gaskets to leak or blown crankshaft seal, failure caused by age, overheating or walking. 8. Holes in the intake manifold bent or warped intake flange or reed cage any stray air coming into a cylinder will cause a super lean condition.
9. Improper assembly of reed valve gaskets.
10. Insufficient warm up time for temperature conditions before WOT.
11. Broken, pinched or cracked fuel line.
12. Carburetor fuel passages clogged or restricted from stale fuel varnish, ethanol sludge, dirt, rust, or fuel level in float bowl too low.
13. Main jet size too small or partially clogged
14. Air filter improperly installed, missing or not sealing.
15. Faulty or improperly adjusted oil pump and or cable.
16. Failure to bleed oil pump after a rebuild/replacement or running oil tank dry.
17. Engine coolant level too low, too old, or improper mixture ratio.
18. Radiator clogged, fins damaged, or faulty cap.
19. No liquid circulation due to failed oil or water pump.
20. Cavitation due to air in oil or coolant system.
21. Water and oil mix due to blown head gasket.
22. Timing retarded due to faulty CKP sensor or CDI.
23. Improper spark plug heat range (too hot) and or gap.
24. Excessive engine load, brakes dragging, clutch slipping, transmission lubricant level too low or viscosity to high.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
08 rmz 250 locking up
http://www.vitalmx.com/forums/Moto-Related,20/2008-RMZ-450-Locked-up,1217233
Suzuki RM Z250 Owner Service Manual
OEM parts for Suzuki
Suzuki RM Z250 Owner Manual

Feb 23, 2017 | 2007 Suzuki RMZ 250

1 Answer

On a 3.8L what is the aspec diagram and tourque for the racker arm


Hi Juan, I'm AL the owner of Big As Auto Repair

Below is the torque specs for the rocker arm as you requested.

SPECIFICATIONS - TORQUE

DESCRIPTION N·m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs. Camshaft Sprocket-Bolt 54 40 - Camshaft Thrust Plate-Bolts 12 - 105 Forged Connecting Rod Cap-Nuts 54 +¼ turn 40 +¼ turn - Cracked Connecting Rod Cap-Bolts (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON & CONNECTING ROD - INSTALLATION) Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap-Bolts 41 +¼ turn 30 +¼ turn - Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap Cross Bolts (3.8L) 61 45 - Crankshaft Oil Seal Retainer Rear-Bolts 12 - 105 Crankshaft Damper-Bolt 54 40 - Cylinder Block Drain Plugs 20 15 - Cylinder Head-Bolts (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION) Cylinder Head Cover-Bolts 12 - 105 Flex Plate to Crankshaft 88 65 - Engine Mounting (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE MOUNTING) Powertrain Torque Strut 54 40 - Exhaust Manifold-Bolts 23 - 200 Exhaust Crossover Pipe-Bolts 54 40 - Intake Manifold - Lower-Bolts 23 - 200 Intake Manifold - Lower Gasket Retainer-Bolts 12 - 105 Intake Manifold Upper-Bolts 12 - 105 Lifter Yoke Retainer-Bolts 12 - 105 Oil Filter Attaching Fitting 54 40 - Oil Cooler Attaching Fitting 27 20 - Oil Filter 20 15 - Oil Filter Adapter-Bolts 28 - 250 Oil Gallery Plug 27 20 - Oil Pan-Bolts 12 - 105 Oil Pan Drain-Plug 27 20 - Oil Pressure Switch 23 - 200 Oil Pump Cover Plate-Screws 12 - 105 Oil Pump Pick-up Tube-Bolt 28 - 250 Oil Dipstick Housing-Bolts 48 35 - Rocker Arm Shaft-Bolts 23 - 200 Spark Plug 16 12 - Thermostat Housing 12 - 105 Timing Chain Case Cover -M8 Bolt 27 20 - -M10 Bolt 54 40 - Water Pump-Bolts 12 - 105 Water Pump Pulley-Bolts 28 - 250
Should you need extra help visit my website here: http://www.bigasautorepair.com/

Apr 15, 2015 | 2005 Chrysler Pacifica

1 Answer

I have 2005 rmz 250 I just got rebuilt after getting it back from the shop and rode it the oil turned milky. Not sure if it's from condensation cause it's cold outside or from water pump seal. Any help is...


If all the oil in the gearbox has gone milky or a bit like mayonnaise then the water pump is leaking coolant into the oil.this can he caused by either a damaged seal or a worn shaft or bearing.it can also be caused by a head gasket leaking and blowing burnt glass not the water jacket which highly compresses the cooling system and forces the water past the seals into the oil.

Feb 27, 2015 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

Tourqe specs for 2.8 liter motor.


Camshaft Sprocket: 15-20ftlbs
Camshaft Rear Cover: 6-9ftlbs
Torsional Dampener: 67-85ftlbs
Exhaust Manifold: 15-23ftlbs
Water Pump: 6-9ftlbs
Thermostat Housing: 15-23ftlbs
Intake Manifold: 23ftlbs
Timing Chain Dampener: 14-19ftlbs
Rocker Arm Cover: 6-9ftlbs
Rock Arm Nuts: 15-20ftlbs
Oil Pan: 15-23ftlbs(M8 Bolts) 6-9ftlbs(M6 Bolts)
Main Bearing Caps: 63-83ftlbs
Connecting Rod Main Cap: 34-40ftlbs
Cylinder Heads: 33ftlbs(+ an additional 1/4 Turn)
Engine Mounts: 34ftlbs
Oil Filter Adapter to Engine: 34ftlbs
Oil Filter Adapter Bolt: 63ftlbs
Oil Pressure Switch: 10ftlbs
Oil Pump Drive Bolt: 25ftlbs
Oil Pump Mounting Bolts: 30ftlbs
EGR Valve: 19ftlbs
EGR Tube Nut: 19ftlbs
Fuel Line Nuts: 17ftlbs
Fuel Rail Attaching Bolts: 88in.lbs
Fuel Rail Inlet Fitting: 35ftlbs
Fuel Rail Mounting Bracket: 28in.lbs
Fuel Rail Outlet Fitting: 30ftlbs
Fuel Pressure Connector: 88in.lbs
Fuel Pressure Regulator Bracket: 28in.lbs
Idle Air Control Valve: 30in.lbs
Idle Air/Vacuum Signal Housing: 30in.lbs
Intake Air Plenum Bolts: 16ftlbs
Thorottle Body Attaching Bolts: 18ftlbs
Throttle Position Sensor: 18in.lbs
Crankshaft Sensor: 71in.lbs
DIS Assembly to Block: 15-22ftlbs
Knock Sensor: 14ftlbs

Dec 15, 2010 | 1989 Chevrolet Celebrity

1 Answer

I have a water leak from where motor meets the housing (housing gasket) even after I replaced it (housing gasket). I don't notice any crack in casing. What did I do wrong?


Your seal plate could be warped or check for dirt at the base of the housing when you take it apart also check the brass gromets the six bolts screw into on the main housing. If these are pulled out at all you will need to replace the housing.

Jun 26, 2010 | AO Smith Pool Pump Motor Hayward Swimming...

1 Answer

I have a rmz 250 2004 and it will not start. i have checked for a spark and it is strong. so its gotta be the motor side any ideas??


it can be the fuel. drop the fuel outa the carbuerator take bottom drain bolt off. put it back on try that

Feb 13, 2010 | 2004 Suzuki RM-Z 250

1 Answer

I'm trying to replace the failed water pump for my 2005 grand caravan. I've removed the pully bolts and housing bolts and moved the pully inward between the pump housing and the hub, but don't seem to have...


you can pry the engine over.. there will be just enough clearance to get
it passed the frame... just be carefull when prying it over not to slip cause you'll break the water pump on installation if the engine rocks back.

Feb 12, 2010 | 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan

1 Answer

Water not draining away


Servicing the Water Pump

Of all washing machine parts, the water pump probably takes the most punishment, because it is constantly in use. When the pump fails, you can hear or see the trouble: a loud rumbling inside the machine, or a failure of the water to drain out of the tub. Here's what you can do to fix the problem:


how-to-repair-a-washing-machine-4.jpg
©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
Take the pump apart and clean
away all debris inside the pump.
Also clear away debris from
the water tubes.

Step 1: Check the drain hoses to make sure they are draining properly. Remove the water supply hoses from the back of the washer. With long-nosed pliers, extract the filter screens from the valve ports in the washer or from the hoses themselves. Wash the screens thoroughly. Then replace them and reattach the hoses. If the machine still rumbles or doesn't drain, examine the pump.

Step 2: To access the pump, first bail and sponge out any water in the machine's tub. Then tip the washer over on its front, using a heavy blanket or pad to protect the washer's finish. Remove the back service panel. The pump is usually located along the bottom of the machine, but with the unit tipped on its front it's easier to remove the pump through the back than through the bottom of the washer.

Step 3: Locate the pump. It has two large hoses attached to it with spring or strap clips. If the clips are the spring type, pinch the ends of the clips together with pliers to release them, and slide the clips down the hoses. If the clips are the strap type, unscrew the metal collar to loosen the clamp. Disconnect the hoses by pulling them off the connections. If the hoses are kinked or crimped at these connections, straighten them as best you can and reconnect them. Then try the machine again to see if this kinking was causing the problem. If the machine still doesn't drain, you'll have to remove the water pump.

Step 4: To remove the pump, loosen the bolt that holds the drive belt taut and move the washer motor on the bracket to loosen the belt. Move the motor out of the way and unbolt the pump; it's usually held by two or three hex-head bolts located on the bottom of the pump housing. As you loosen the last mounting bolt, support the pump with your hand. Then lift the pump out of the washer.

Step 5: You should take the pump apart if you can, because the trouble could be lint, dirt, or pieces of cloth or paper clogging the pump impeller. Clean away all debris inside the pump and clear any debris out of the water tubes. Then reassemble the pump. Hook up the pump again and test it. If cleaning the pump doesn't put it back into working order, or if the pump housing can't be removed, replace the pump with a new one of the same kind.

Step 6: To install the new pump, set it into position and connect the mounting bolts to the pump housing. Move the motor back into position. Tighten the drive belt on the motor by prying it taut with a hammer handle or pry bar; it should give about 1/2 inch when you press on it at the center point between the two pulleys.

Step 7: Reconnect the hoses leading to the pump.

Aug 30, 2009 | Zanussi FJS1225W Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Sospension original set up


The best way to set up your suspension is to have someone hold the bike while your on it. Then a thrid person to watch. You with your feet on the pegs jump down on it with out sitting on seat. This thrid person is there to watch to make sure that the bike will rebound or come back to normal, with both the front and rear coming up at the same time. As far as the best set up, it is all a weight thing. Keep it where it is take to woods, if you don't like it adjust it. Keep doing this until you like it. It took me 2 days on my bike just to race one Harescramble.

Jan 08, 2009 | 2005 Suzuki RM-Z 250

4 Answers

Amana washer belt replacement


Steps for Replacing the Belt

Tools needed:
Nut driver or socket set.
Torex screw driver.

1. Unplug the power cord from the
electric socket and remove the
front panel.
2. Disconnect the power coupling
from the motor.
3. Disconnect the 2 hoses from the
pump. Be aware that the pump
still contains between 1 and
2 cups of water, and it WILL
all come out.
4. Remove the belt from the idler
arm, pushing the belt UNDER the
idler arm. Yes, your hands will
now be quite greasy.
5. Remove the belt from the main
transmission by pushing the belt
under the transmission pulley.
6. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the
motor assembly to the washing
machine body. Remove the motor
assembly with belt from the
washing machine.
7. Turn the motor upside-down. With
the torex screwdriver, remove the
3 bolts that hold the pump to the
motor. Remove the pump from the
motor (in my case, the motor shaft
fit into a slot in the pump; while
it was snug, it was not melted or
rusted, and did just come out).
8. Clean pump and motor as desired.
9. Install new belt and reverse the
steps to re-install.

Nov 07, 2007 | Amana ALW480DA Top Load Washer

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