Question about 2008 Harley Davidson FLHX Street Glide

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On 2009 super glide does it have to be in neutral to adjust clutch

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Being in gear or in neutral has noe effect on the way the clutch is adjusted, or any effect on the adjustment itself.

Posted on Sep 27, 2010


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I have a 08 Harley super glide fxdx. the clutch will not engage

Well, the compensator should not be making noises so you might be well advised to look further into that. Give some history of the clutch problem. What was done with the bike just before the present problem??? Has the cable been properly adjusted?? Has anyone taken the clutch release cover or the cable out recently????

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Trying to change primary oil for 2009 Harley Dyna Super Glide - have drained but not sure where to put oil to re fill.

Pour the oil into the primary through the "derby cover" hole. Remove the derby cover and pour oil in until the level comes up to the bottom of the clutch spring with the bike standing straight up. When you look at the clutch, you can see the outer "aluminum colored" drum. Just inside this, you'll see a black colored disc, this is the clutch spring. Do not fill any higher than the bottom of this disc with the bike standing straight up. It will cause the clutch to "drag" making finding neutral with the engine running impossible. Usually it takes 36 - 44 ounces of oil.

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2009 street glide when I let the clutch in first gear I hear A clunk noise

If your engine is running with the clutch out and you pull in the clutch and put the transmission in first gear, you'll hear a clunk, this is normal. The reason is that although your transmission is a constant mesh transmission it is not a synchronized transmission. I don't know of any motorcycle that has synchronizers in the transmission. When the engine is idling in neutral with the clutch out, the gears and shafts in the transmission are spinning. When you pull the clutch in, wait a second or two for the spinning transmission components to slow down or stop spinning before you kick the transmission into low gear. The hotter the transmission is, the thinner the lubricant in it and the longer you need to wait.

A clunk is normal but if the bike trys to pull forward and you have to hold the front brake to keep the bike from moving or you cannot find neutral with the engine running, you need to adjust the clutch. To adjust the clutch, find the rubber bellows in the middle of the clutch cable. Slide the bellows up and break the locknut loose. Shorten the cable as much as possible. Remove the derby cover from the left side of the primary cover. In the center of the clutch assembly, you'll see a clutch release rod adjustment. Break the locknut loose and adjust the center bolt inwards until a resistance is felt. Do not force the bolt, just until a resistance is felt. Back off on the bolt 1/2 to 1 full turn and lock the nut. Replace the derby cover and adjust the cable so that you've vote about an 1/8 inch of freeplay at the clutch lever. Lock the lock nut and replace the bellows. Good Luck, Steve

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1 Answer

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50 ft lbs and it is a left is tight nut...don't worry about adjuster nut on clutch just good ole tight will work on that one. compensating nut ( one in front) is 150 ft lbs.

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