Question about Vespa Motorcycles

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In my LML Vespa Select II 1996 model, the oil from the engine leaks to the break drum, through the region where the bearing is located. i have changed the oil seal a number of times, but the oil still keeps on leaking, and due to this oil leak the back break does not work properly. Please help. the section provided as "Choose a make-" and "Choose a mode" does not have an option for "LML" nor for "vespa", so just for the sake i have choosen Bajaj and Chetak respectively.

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  • Vespa Master
  • 40,775 Answers

Oil seals leak because the shaft is not held true in the seal
check for bad bearings or bad adjustment of the bearings and shaft

Posted on Jun 07, 2017

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  • Vespa Master
  • 39,960 Answers

Hi, Richtarzan the seal is not the issue if you are confident that's where the oil is coming from then you have a venting issue or the shaft the seal is riding on is faulty and needs to be replaced.
Good luck and have a wonderful day.

Posted on Jun 07, 2017

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

glennsmart
  • 798 Answers

SOURCE: oil leak?

Whoa whoa ... You've said that the car takes 7 quarts of oil. That's 14 pints. Depending on which engine variant is fitted, engine oil capacity is either:

  • 5.75 litres + 0.4 litre if the oil cooler is drained
  • Turbo - 3.85 litres + 0.6 litre if the oil cooler is drained
  • These figures are for a UK 3 litre version of the 960
If you've filled the car with 7 quarts of engine oil that's almost twice as much oil as should be in the engine. Did you mean pints when you wrote quarts?

If you've filled it with 7 quarts it's overfull. Way too full. Check your oil dipstick - remove it, wipe it clean and then dip the oil level. At the bottom of the dipstick there is a flattened wider part. The oil level should not be below the bottom of this marker, and nor should it be above it. If the oil level is way above the flattened marker bar - you're overfull and will have to drain some oil out of the engine. An overfilled engine will try and blow oil out from wherever it can as the oil system will over-pressurised.

Ok .. so there's no problem with the engine compression. The crankcase isn't overfilled with oil (the crankcase is known as the oil sump in the UK). There's no oil fouling of the plugs and the car isn't burning oil, just leaking it. There's no misfires or running

If the engine isn't overfilled with oil there may be a problem with a broken/sticking piston ring or piston/cylinder. That high oil loss you mention seems severe. A problem with a piston/ring/cylinder can allow the compression to leak past the rings/piston into the engine oil sump and pressurise it. Under pressure, the oil will try and leak to atmosphere from anywhere it can.

A blue smoky exhaust is also an indication of piston/ring problems. A quick check is to start the car. If there's a cloud of blue smoke at start up which clears quickly, it's like to be worn valve guides. If, when driving the car with a warm engine there's blue smoke on acceleration - it points to a problem with rings/piston.

A quick check is to remove the spark plugs. Is there engine oil on one or more of them? An oiled up plug indicates that the engine oil is finding its way up past the rings/piston - and if oil can find its way up to a spark plug, then exhaust gasses/compressed fuel/air can find its way into the engine oil sump and pressurise it.

Another quick check is to start the engine and remove the oil dipstick. If fumes are 'chugging' out of the tube or oil is spitting out, that's another sure-fire sign that the oil sump is becoming pressurised due to a piston ring/piston/cylinder problem.

If you possess or can borrow an engine compression tester there is a further test you can do yourself to confirm whether or not there are piston/ring problems. Basically, a compression tester is just a gauge that screws into the cylinder head in place of the spark plug.

Warm the engine for 5 minutes so that the pistons expand fully in the bores.
Remove the spark plugs
Fit the compression tester into No1 cylinder and crank the engine for 10 seconds. Make a note of the compression reading on the gauge.
Do the same for each cylinder.

Here's an example of what you might find (the figures are for example only)
Cylinder Reading
1 115
2 120
3 118
4 95
5 96
6 117

Figures vary, but there should not be more than a 10% difference between the readings.
In the example above you can see that cylinders 4 and 5 have readings that are well below those of the other cylinders. This is indicating problems within those two cylinders. The lower compression could be due to a head/gasket fault or piston ring/piston problem. A split or worn exhaust valve in the head may cause low compression, a misfire and uneven running but it won't cause the engine oil sump/crankcase to pressurise. Now, some fine tuning to locate the exact problem:

Put a liberal squirt of oil into each cylinder - something like Redex, WD40 or engine oil.Put a cloth over each spark plug hole and spin the engine to get rid of the excess oil. The idea is that the oil you have squirted into the piston bores will form a 'seal' around the outside of the piston/rings.

Do the compression tests again and note the readings. If the readings go up significantly it indicates that the rings/pistons/bore has a problem. Readings that go up significantly are due to the oil forming a seal around the piston which raises the compression whilst testing. Here's an example:Cylinder Reading on 1st test 2nd test
1 115 118
2 120 121
3 118 120
4 95 110 Significant rise - more than 10%
5 96 98
6 117 119

Ok .. all this means is that cylinder 4 has compression problems due to the rings/piston/bore. The 2nd compression reading (with the oil squirted in) is higher simply because the oil formed a seal. Cylinder number 5 still has a low reading which didn't increase significantly on the 2nd 'wet' (when oil is added) test. This suggests that the problem is an exhaust valve/head gasket/head problem.

If there had been no significant increase in the reading on number 4 cylinder, this would suggest valve/gasket head problem. Low readings on adjoining cylinders (and which don't increase with the 2nd compression 'wet' oil test) would indicate a faulty head gasket between those two cylinders.

I'll continue this article ... ran out of word space

Posted on Sep 18, 2008

  • 119 Answers

SOURCE: 7mge have oil leak

hi if your engine 22R front engine first in side timing cover where engine bully fitted there is oil seal, next valve cover front side between cover and head there seal not like oil seal half cercle shap it makes leak also front side of the camshaft there is oil seal..

Posted on Nov 08, 2008

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: 99 CBR 900 Front fork seals

If the seal has been cracked by the cold weather it should be replaced. For someone mechanicly inclined and with the proper tools this is not a hard job. For the novice it can be one of those times you could have sent it to the shop and spent less time and money, and gotten better results....
As to a seal conditioner, the seals today are generally made of synthetic material. No "conditioner" will work. If the seal is made of rubber you have a 90% chance that a product called 'MARVEL MYSTERY OIL' will solve the problem. This prouduct was created in 1917 and marketed in 1923. Google the product name for more hystory and uses today. Basicly, the oil causes rubber to swell. This tightens seals and thus fixes the problem. Most any good auto parts store has this stuff on the shelf. By the way, if the bike was purchased new, wouldn't this be a warranty repair?

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

goofduck
  • 490 Answers

SOURCE: water leak/mixing with oil

change the seal behind the water pump impeller
the shifter shaft seal will stop leaking
if it continues to mix water and oil you will have to change the head gasket

Posted on Apr 13, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: CANT GET FRONT LIGHT AND INDERCATORS WORKING BACK LIGHTS ALL WORK OK

check fuses and then retrace each indicator conector wire back to the fuse . Once this is done check the fuse to power line if it is a factory problem then they should be able to fix the problem directlly and frre of charge regardless if you brought the bike new or used it is there responsibilty.

Posted on May 06, 2009

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