(2005 Road King)When I sit in traffic for a long period of time it sounds like my engine is runnung on one cylinder. Is the common and is suppose to shut down one cylinder when getting to hot?

It's the low oil pressure warning lamp. It's suppose to come on at every start up. It will stay on for a couple seconds after the engine starts. This is normal.

Harley 20w50 is better

I ran your VIN through Motoverse...
VIN: 5HD1FRW135Y700148
World region: North America
Manufactured in: USA
Year: 2005
Make:
Harley-davidson
Model:
FLHRCI = Touring Road King
Body style:
Road / Street
Drive type:
RWD
Cylinders:
2 Cylinders
Engine type:
Fuel-injected Big twin

A 2004 RK with 8K on the clock shouldn't have anything wrong with it other than it may have been sitting for an extended period of time. In that case, the carb or the fuel injection system my need to be serviced with a thorough disassembly and cleaning. But, if the bike runs good at idle and highway speeds, I'd change the lubricatants and ride that bike. Something that it really needs.

Good Luck
Steve

You could have the dealership install the 103 CI kit if you like but no it didnt come from the factory with that engine in it already, only the CVO bikes such as the FLHRSE and FLHRSEI came with the 103 CI motor installed from the factory.

They should NOT have come off, they are supposed to be stuck on.
Ride Safe
Bike-Doc

Please mark this as useful (if it has been!!)

First of all, you need to install a temp gauge as, even if your motor is running within the red-line (below 300degF, preferably lower than 280) the exhaust can still be several hundred degrees. Even if you add most cooling units that claim to lower engine temperatures, lowering your engine temp as much as 20-40 degrees may lower the exhaust as much as 100 degrees or possibly a little more however, lowering exhaust pipe temps from 5-600 degrees down to 4-500 degrees is going to help your engine but, it is still going to produce a lot of heat radiating to the human body.
Have you tried the heat diverter panels that fit on both sides of the upper frame. they are made to divert heat away from your legs. Also, most of the Harley drill teams use a heat blanket that does the same thing. It works a little better but, it doesn't look quite as nice.
I have a new cooling system that actually does work well and is designed specifically for the conditions you described and it has worked wonderfully. It keeps the engine cool enough that the rear cylinder cut-out never even actuates. It completely eliminated the engine overheating issues. None the less, it is still hot on me even though I never hit the red line anymore. If your interested, I can give you the product name. I'll check this site occasionally to see if you respond.
Heat is one of those negatives that are going to occur when riding on an air-cooled bike with a V-twin as the pipes have to be mounted high under the rider. There are a couple companies that claim to produce internal ceramic pipes that supposedly removes nearly all heat down the pipe and out the rear yet, they will be very costly and I haven't heard any actual feedback from anyone using them so, it would be an expensive investment that may or may not remedy your issue.
Wish there was better news. If I had actual oil and/or engine temps to go on, I could possibly give you a better answer. Good luck..................Erik

Sounds like the intake manifold is leaking. The area where the leak usually happens, are those two rubber sleeves that go from the heads, (Cylinder heads) to the intake. Sometimes the clamp/s loosen up. Sometimes these rubber sleeves deteriorate, and cracks form.

This makes the engine backfire, pop, and idle fast.

The added air at the wrong time cause a backfire, when you let off the throttle. The added air causes the engine to pop, because the exhaust valve has sucked up some cold air.
The engine idles fast, because more air is being introduced, and not metered by the injection system.

(The exhaust valve thing. Exhaust valves are supposed to open, and let exhaust out right? Well there is a thing called Valve Overlap.
The Exhaust valve hasn't closed all the way yet, and the Intake valve is opening.
The 4 stroke engine, (Of which a Harley is), has these four strokes.
1.Intake Stroke. Fuel/air is sucked in.
2.Compression Stroke. The piston comes up and squeezes the fuel/air mixture.
3.Combustion Stroke. The spark plug lights the fuel/air mixture off.
4.Exhaust Stroke. The spent gases are expelled out.

Your Road King has one camshaft. There are four cam lobes on it.
Intake, Exhaust, Intake, Exhaust.

If you had the camshaft in your hand, and had the gear end facing you, look down the camshaft. You will see those egg shaped cam lobes. You will notice that No.1 cylinder Intake lobe is facing to the left.
No.1 Exhaust is facing to the right.

If you put a degree wheel on the gear end of the camshaft, and had the No.1 Exhaust lobe ramp nose facing straight up, you would see that it's about 110 degrees, before the Intake lobe ramp at .050 lift, comes into play. (The roller, of your roller lifter has raised the Exhaust valve up .050 inch) There is about 55 degrees before the Exhaust valve hasn't quite shut.
This is okay for normal running. Introduce a vacuum leak, and the surge of extra cold air, makes it pop.

Solution? I suggest checking to see if the clamps on those rubber sleeves are loose. You can also spray WD-40 towards the ends of each rubber sleeve, when the engine is idling, and see if it speeds up. Means, one or more, of those rubber sleeves has deteriorated.

The injected bikes have a heat management system, that will make them skip a stroke from time to time in an attempt to cool the engine down, the hotter the engine gets the rougher the ride, if heavy traffic is a constant issue and you live in a warm climate area. there are parade fans available which blow air across the cylinders while at low speeds, most police bikes have these as they regularly are used un heavy traffic.