There is no need to bleed the system unless you opened the lines or the reservoir ran dry. The pedal should stiffen up once the pads have reseated. If you do have to bleed, leave the top on or you will spill fluid. To bleed, have one person pump up the pedal and hold it down while you open and close the bleeder. They should not release the pedal until the bleeder is closed. Do this repeatedly until no air bubbles come out. Am I making sense?
Testimonial: "yes it does im just wondering if the mc was damaged when i pushed the pistons back in "
no, you did it the same way we all do--should not damage anything. And, yes, it always spills out there unless you draw some fluid out before retracting the pistons.
i done everything and still no luck the pedal is still soft , i changed the brakes this way on all my vehicles through out the years and never had a problem like this , the only time i had a problem like this was in my 300zx with the clutch master i had to rebuild it then everything was fine but im stuck maybe the pistons bottomed out when i pressed them back in i dont know ???
puzzling. bottoming the pistons is OK--that is how they come from the factory.
Here is the exact procedure from autozone.com:
Turn ignition switch OFF and disconnect ABS actuator and control unit connector or negative battery terminal.
Connect a transparent vinyl tube and container to air bleeder valve.
Fully depress brake pedal several times.
With brake pedal depressed, open air bleeder valve to release air.
Close air bleeder valve.
Release brake pedal slowly.
Tighten air bleeder valve to: 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm).
Repeat steps 2 through 7 until no more air bubbles come out of air bleeder valve.
Bleed the brake hydraulic system air bleeder valves in the following order:
Right rear brake Left front brake Left rear brake Right front brake
Only thing to notice is step to disconnect battery. Not sure what effect that would have.
ABS does complicate things. If you have air in there you probably have to bleed all wheels--did you do that?
i didnt unhook the battery ive been bleeding them with the truck running im going to try it with the truck off now and unhook the neg battery term
ive done it that way now its alot better but its still not where it used to be am i missing something
brakes fell fine when its off but when truck is on they still have to much give
Well, seems you're making progress tho not ready to yell victory. It's normal for pedal to sink farther when engine is running, but the pedal should be going back to where it was before this all started. Did you get any air out this time? Do you have someone helping you so you can close the bleeder while the pedal is held down?
yeah i have someone helping me but theres no air coming out of the calipers straight fluid. im going to try bleeding them with the truck off but the battery still hooked up and see what that does now
ive tryed it now three different ways and still no luck i have brakes but ther not the best im stuck
A good brake shop will have a pressure bleeder that can probably get the bubble out. Suspect it's hiding in the ABS. If you want to hire a pro, make sure they have a pressure bleeder, as you have done all anyone can do without a machine. Sorry I couldn't be more help.
thanks dude
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