Question about 1993 Harley Davidson FXR Super Glide

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Hello, Two of my friends have E-Glides with stock pipes, both have a stumble at the 50-60mph range. Do I need to put a bolt in the end of the main exhaust pipe to get rid of that stumble? Thanks, Ole Cod

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If the stock mufflers are on the bikes, you should have enough backpressure to eliminate the stumble. That's what the bolt does, produce just a bit of back pressure on the exhaust system. Now, if the mufflers have been gutted, the bolts may help. It doesn't cost that much, try it.

Good Luck
Steve

Posted on Sep 16, 2010

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Bottom drawer of kenmore range rests on the floor when opened


At the back of your drawer, there should be 2 guide or glides. These glides have a slit in them.... Now pull out your drawer and look inside the frame of the range where the drawer goes. You will see a horizontal bar or or rail that goes from the front of the drawer area to the back, on both sides of the range. Those glides on the back of your drawer are supposed to "hug" that rail. Or to put it another way, that rail must go in the slot of the glides. Of course, if you are missing 1 or both of the glides, or if they are broken, then that is why the drawer falls to the floor when you open it.

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I took off the factory mufflers on my suzuki m50 that is fuel injected and put straight pipe on it. Drove it for awhile and now it wont run unless the air cleaner is off. How can I adjust it?


There is no adjustment on the fuel injection model unless you put it on a computer and have it remapped.

When you put straight pipes on the bike, you did away with a baffle that was in your stock pipes.
so now there is no back pressure, and your bike is breathing now.
But it can't breath if it can't get the air.
When you remove the air cleaner it breaths.
So you need to purchase a High-Flow air filter.
If you have an airbox, you may need to eliminate that as well, but start with just the high flow fliter first.
When putting on straight pipes and a high flow air filter , you will also need to increase your carburetor main jet size at least 1-2 numbers:example:stock 120 go to 122.
if you don't increase the main jet your bike will run lean and hot.

Once done you'll be able to crack that throttle and the whole neigborhood will here ya.
Loud pipes save lives.
Best Regards
Big Al

May 28, 2011 | 2005 Suzuki Boulevard M50

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Hello, I need a microwave mounting bolt that is at least 6 inches long. Can you help?


You should be able to buy bolts that long, depending on the diameter, but for mounting a microwave I would suggest you go for 5/16' (8 mm). If you cannot get bolts, use threaded rod and cut it to the length you need, using washers and nuts on both ends to create your long bolts. Most better hardware stores will stock the threaded rods but long bolts may be stocked by fastener merchants only. Good luck and please rate this answer.

May 19, 2011 | Microwave Ovens

3 Answers

What is the main difference between pipe threads and bolt thread?


pipe threads taper. measurements are different.names are drefferent.pipes are called ips or iron pipe size.bolts are by size and noumber of thread per inch or mm

Dec 06, 2010 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

I installed straight drag pipes on my 2002 super glide. Runs great but second cylinder pops on decel and pops when idles. Also shows some sign of black soot at end of this pipe. Gets 48 mpg plus. there...


This is typical of all Harley's that I know of. rejetting is not going to help. Since the engine is a single carburetor engine, if you rejet to lean the rear cylinder out, you also lean the front cylinder as well. If it's running correctly now, rejetting to lean the rear will cause the front cylinder to become too lean and overheat.

Since you're complaining of "soot" in the rear pipe, I'm assuming that there is no soot in the front pipe. Most Harleys do tend to have a little difference in the mixture between the two cylinders but this sounds like a bit too much difference to me. The reason for the soot is that the rear cylinder is running richer than the front. A reason for that could be a vacuum leak to the front cylinder causing that mixture to be lean and diverting the fuel to the rear cylinder resulting in a rich mixture in that cylinder. Check for vacuum leaks at the intake to heads junction, at the vacuum port off the carb.

Another suggestion is that usually drag pipes have a "flat spot" in their performance at around 55 to 65 mph due to a lack of backpressure, I'd install a bolt in the rear of the pipes. On most drag pipes, there is a hole to bolt the baffles into the end of the pipe with. Take a 1/4" X 1 1/4" stainless steel bolt and insert it into the hole. Up inside the pipe, put three stainless steel nuts on the bolt. Do this to each pipe. It does not effect the sound of the pipes but does provide just enough backpressure to almost completely eliminate the flat spot.

Good Luck
Steve

Oct 13, 2010 | 2001 Harley Davidson FXD Dyna Super Glide

1 Answer

Hi wondering what i need to do to make my 2003 800 volusia run right at low rpm. the person i bought the bike from hollowed out the exhaust so it seems to be loading up. i changed the main jet to 130 ...


Stock pipes (debaffled) & stock airbox:
128 or 130 main, 30 or 32.5 pilot jet, dyno spring, dyno needle on 3rd notch, mix screw at 2.5 - 3 turns. Adjust idle knob as needed to reach 1100 rpm.

Aug 03, 2010 | 2003 Suzuki VS 800 Intruder

1 Answer

I have a 98 kx125 that starts and idles fine, but wont throttle up reliably and stumbles. I have a 42 pilot, 152 main, needle on 3rd position and an FMF fatty pipe, they recommend 3rd position 40 and 160...


I don't know a lot about Kawasaki motorcycles nor the carbs they put on them. But, I do know a bit about jetting carbs. The first thing that strikes me is the 152 main jet when a 160 is stock. This represents a very large move. Usually when we put a set of open pipes on a bike, we wind up richening up the mixture by one jet size. The difference in yours is at least three steps. I'd go back to the original and start over. This is going to be the least expensive way to go anyway.

As for the solenoid, it depends on what that solenoid does. If it opens a "mid range port" somewhere, that could indeed be the problem as well. Without knowing what this solenoid does, it's hard to say. You could take the solenoid out and spray that carb cleaner in the hole and find out where it goes and determine what it does. Someone may know how to test it for proper operation.

Also, it could be an exhaust restriction. check the pipe and I think what you're talking about is the variable exhaust port operation. (KIPS?) If the exhaust is not opening or restricted, it won't rev up either. Good Luck and sorry I couldn't be of more help.

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3 Answers

How do i adjust a S&S super B carb, cold start mostly


The Super B carb is not as forgiving of improper jetting as the Super E model carb due to the lack of an accelerator pump. The only adjustment you have on the carb is the idle mixture screw and idle stop screw. The idle stop screw simply adjusts the idle speed of the engine. The idle mixture screw should be adjusted somewhere between 3/4 and 1 1/4 turn out from the bottom. If it is out of this range, the carb is not jetted correctly.

Through experience over the years I've found that the Super B used on a Big Twin Harley should be jetted 29.5 on the slow jet with a 70 or 72 on the main jet. If used on an Ironhead Sportster, slow jet of 26 with either a 66 or 68 main jet.

The way to tune the carb slow speed circuit is to allow the engine to warm up and adjust the idle mixture screw one turn off the bottom. Then try to rev the engine. If the engine does not rev cleanly, try coming out a half turn on the idle mixture. If it seems to help, continue until it revs cleanly. If this is the case, you slow jetting is too lean, install a richer jet and repeat the above procedure. Once you get it tuned to where the engine revs cleanly with the idle mixture screw at one turn out, you low speed jetting is correct.

The high speed jetting is not quite as simple to set as this has to be done on the road. I usually find a long uphill run to test the jetting to keep top speeds reasonable. At about 55-60 miles per hour, roll the throttle on in high gear. Feel the way the engine pulls. If it pulls good, back off on the throttle about 1/8th turn. If it pulls better, it's just slightly lean. If when you roll the throttle on, the engine starts spitting back through the carb and doesn't run well, you are way lean. Either way move upwards on your jet size one step at the time and retest.

If the bike seems sluggish and blows black smoke when you do the "roll-on", you're too rich. Install leaner jet one step at a time.

Now, most people confuse a "mid range stumble" with a carb problem. All efforts to tune this stumble out done on the carb are futile. The problem is in the exhaust system. Most bikes do not like open drag pipes for street use. They will exhibit this mid range stumble. The remedy is to put a bolt with three nuts on it on the inside of the pipe or any other means to create just a bit of backpressure on the exhaust. This usually cures the problem or at least makes it easier to live with.

Full tuning procedures can be downloaded on the S & S site. Go to "Technical" page, then "Installation instructions" to download the full paperwork that came with your Super B.

I hope this helps and Good Luck.

Feb 03, 2010 | 1993 Harley Davidson FXR Super Glide

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