1996 piaggio hexagon, battery not receiving charge from engine, indicators and lights go funny with revs, is it the rectifier, the battery was brand new (gel type) fully charged about three weeks ago, bike runs ok.please help.
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Re: 1996 piaggio hexagon, battery not receiving charge...
Find the reg/rect. check the AC voltage going in, should be about 18-26v & 3000RPM. If you have voltage check the out put Red and frame should be above battery voltage.If not turn off engine and check voltage at reg/rect Red wire (+) and Black(-) if fitted could be conected through body to frame..It should be at battery voltage.if not check for burnt or dirty conectors on the red lead and or the black lead if fitted or the mounting bolt for the reg/rect.
If you have battery voltage and AC voltage at the reg/rect suspect the reg/rect. some units have an extra wire that can be an ignition feed that has power on it when the key is on, but sure these dont have it.
If you dont have AC voltage check the (usualy) yellow wire some can have 1 or 2 wires. If it has 2 wire check voltage across both, if it only has one check yellow and the frame.
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Hi, did you charge the battery before use? Is the battery maintenance free or top up type as both need to be charged before using for the first time. Take battery out of bike (make sure you remove the negative lead first) and charge at no more than 1 amp for as long as possible. When charging is completed refit the battery (make sure you refit the positive lead first). You then need to make sure the battery is being charged by the alternator/rectifier circuits. Start the bike connect a volt meter set to DC (use a range of more than 20 volts) across the battery (make sure red lead goes to positive). The reading you get should be at least 12.5 volts, start engine and increase the revs slowly and you should see a rise in voltage to about 14.4 volts. Decrease revs slowly and watch the meter it should either remain near or above 14 volts or drop to about 13.5 in either case your bike is working OK. Hope this helps.
PS if you do not get these readings on your meter with the engine running I would look at the rectifier. They do cook themselves and blow up from time to time
Check the charging voltage of your battery. It should be about 14.5 volts DC with the engine at twice idle revs. If it is higher than this, you will need a new regulator. if the voltage is in AC you need a new rectifier and battery. The reason the lights dim is due to insufficient current being available to run the lights and the engine at the same time, an indication that the battery is not holding a charge.
Hi, Bumgrapeking before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from the regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from the regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads for viewing or printing that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. 150cc Scooter not charging Scooter Doc Forum How to test and repair the charging system on scooter PIAGGIO Fly Workshop Manual piaggio hexagon 125 150 1996 Parts PIAGGIO X9 Evolution 125 Owner Manual
you will know if the regulator/rectifier goes, if 1, all your lights go much brighter and blow when you rev the bike, or 2, if your battery is not charging. a simple test is to check the voltage at the battery with engine idling, should be about 14volts. There is nothing you can do to prevent the rectifier from going.
Charge the battery and refit to the bike, start the engine and check that the charging system is working ok. Set multimeter to DC and check that it is charging between 12.5 - 14.8volts at a steady rate when revs increased steadily. If the voltage is not increasing or very erratic then it is a good indication that the regulator/rectifier is at fault. If the battery is charging well above the 14.8 then the battery is at fault.
This is indication of the battery being in good shape and almost fully charged. The light on the dashboard is an indication that your dynamo is producing sufficient current, which increases when you rev up and the vehicle is no longer drawing any charge from the battery. On idling, dynamo produces less current, thus to keep the electrical parts running it draws a small amount of charge from the battery thus lighting the indicator is very dim. Do not worry. Everything is OK with your cars engine & battery...........sodeep
Check the rectifier and its related fuses. The rectifier gets the charge from the dynamo. However if the rectifier may not be passing the appropriate amount to battery, thus the battery is slowly getting drained out..........sodeep
When there is no charging system operational, the bike will run wih battery in total loss mode. When it gets to a certain point of discharge, the first indication is indeed as you saw, the intruments go blank. There is little power left at this point and need to get home asap!
Either the R/R (rectifier/regulator) and/or the stator is bad - both are unfortunately quite common failures on these bikes.
You can find a diagnosis guide that I personally authored at this site: http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-forum/104504-charging-system-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.html
Follow those guidelines and you will be able to determine which or both is failed. Also is a recommendation for a retrofit/upgrade to a better component if you do need to replace the R/R.