Question about kawasaki KLX 400 R Motorcycles

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I have a Kawasaki KLX 450 R and need a wiring diagram for engine , stator etc, When connect battery can hear relay lick on , checked it has current draw because relay is swicthing on, when unplug stator harness current draw dissapears , plus when running it won't charge battery. Help! please!

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 254 Answers

SOURCE: need a (free) wiring diagram for headlight on 91 Kawasaki Voyager

try this site http://www.manualz.info/

they have mauals online for a lot of bikes.

hope this helps

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: my charging system isnt charging on my Kawasaki

have you tried testing the regulator rectifier i am sure this has an effect on the charging circuit also is it definetly the charging circuit not working or could the battery be not holding the charge thats put to it.

Posted on Apr 21, 2009

sodeep
  • 3267 Answers

SOURCE: battery wont charge more than 12.25 at 2000 rpm

Check the rectifier, its responsible for charging the battery when running, the fuse too, however the rectifier if it can not be repaired, better to buy a new one......................sodeep

Posted on May 26, 2009

  • 130 Answers

SOURCE: i need a wiring harness

http://rapidshare.com/files/58031637/KR-1.zip

click the above link and download the service repair manuals.it has all the wiring harness diagrams on it and are easy to understand.
goodluck

thanks and please do not forget to rate the solution and keep updated.

Posted on Jun 07, 2009

polarcycle
  • 1392 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2008 Kawasaki KLX 450 R with an oil leak

It is an output shaft seal. Shouldn't be too hard to do depending on your skill level. You will need to have something to pull the seal out, and make sure you put the seal in squarely.

Posted on Jul 29, 2009

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I have problem with my aura classic 110 for my charging system.what is the skematic diagram of the rectifier?


Hi, Josephine before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from the regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from the regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads for viewing or printing that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
kawasaki aura classic 110 wiring diagram Google Search
GY6 scooter rectifier regulator
http://www.family-motorsports.net/GY6-50cc-150cc.pdf
Spare parts for Kawasaki AN110
http://absolutelyscooterparts.net/pdf/CGEN_dawg_scooter_manual.pdf

Aug 07, 2017 | kawasaki Motorcycles

1 Answer

1988 Kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan not charging


Hi, Wally before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from the regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from the regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads for viewing and printing that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
help 1500 not charging battery and other electrical issues
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
http://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki/kawasaki-vulcan-owners-manuals

Jul 29, 2017 | 1996 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic

1 Answer

Whats the correct procedure for measuring the resistance on the Stator, 2001 KLX 300. Which wires get tested and in which order?


Not familiar with this exact model but I have tested other stators. There should be 3 wires of the same color at the connector. This would be a 'Y' wound stator, all 3 are connected to each other. I f you don't have the ohm specs just check for resistance with an ohm meter. All 3 should show continuity to each other no matter what order you test. And, NONE should show continuity to ground. If the stator is removed, ground would be to the iron stator core.

May 22, 2014 | 2001 kawasaki KLX 300

1 Answer

KLX 110 not getting enough spark i think to burn the fuel


Hi, Jason and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a "LOAD" test if necessary, your battery may show 12.5 volts but have little or zero amps and needs to be replaced.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, points/condenser ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.
10. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
11. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
12. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
13. Fuel tank empty.
14. Fuel tank contaminated with ethanol sludge.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
16. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
17. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.miniriders.com/ask-the-tech-masters-/33469-klx-110-wont-start.html
05 KLX 110 Wont Start
Kawasaki KLX110 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
Kawasaki KLX110 Owner Manual

Apr 06, 2017 | 2005 kawasaki KLX 110

1 Answer

Brand new battery dosent stay charged. charge battery and bike runs fine....then battery goes dead...charge battery bike runs good but pull a wire off battery and bike dies. Im thinking stator is bad...how...


You need to check the charging current and also the discharging of the battery in the IDLE mode.
Please check this link for some tips.

http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5824824-draining_car_battery_charge


Use a multimeter to check the charging current and also discharging rate when the engine is switched off.

The alternator and accessories must be checked.

Jun 13, 2011 | kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Motorcycles

1 Answer

Thermo fan will not work on 1996 klx 650, when engine is running or hot, there is a wire to the sensor and another which is broken, beside it. Should the broken wire be connected to something? If so, what?...


Hello;
Let's figure this out. Broken or otherwise disconnected wires usually cause an open circuit preventing adequate current to a componant. Two wire switches act as light switches do. they either close or open a circuit.In this case, the warning lamp or fan relay is ativated when the temp rises. Cold, the circuit is open/ broken preventing any controlled componant from activating.
First check for any power/voltageat the disconnected wire and the connected wire. Which ever wire that is powered is the supply wire. The one without is your controlled componant wire. Touch the two wires together, bypassing the switch. The fan should come on and turn off when disconnected again. Ignition switch needs to be on.Because of the load the fan pulls, a relay is between the fan and switch.
The switch closes powering the relay, then relay close contacts closing a secondary circuit which in turn permits power to the fan. The fan circuit is powered by the battery and controlled only by the relay.
Yuup, two circuits. Switching and fan drive circuits. Yes, Hook the wire back onto the switch after testing as outlined here. Good Luck and remember to always verify power (fusec ondition). _Ned_

Apr 03, 2011 | kawasaki KLX 650 R Motorcycles

2 Answers

My 1987 Kawasaki is losing it's charge! new battery keeps dying


FIRST OFF, EVEN THOUGH THE BATTERY IS NEW TO YOU, IT MAY HAVE BEEN ON THE SHELF AT THE DEALER FOR SOME TIIME. VERIFY A GOOD BATTERY WITH THE APPROPRIATE TESTER. AFTER THAT YOU CAN CHECK YOUR STATOR BY VERIFYING CONTINUITY AND OPENS IN THE STATOR HARNESS. EASIER WAY IS TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY AFTER YOU START THE BIKE AND IF IT CONTINUES TO RUN THE STATOR IS LIKELY OK. AND YOU SHOULD LOOK AT THE REG/RECT AT THAT POINT. YOU'LL NEED CORRECT MEASUREMENTS FOR THE READOUTS ON THESE TESTS. QUICK CHECK THE STATOR BY TESTING ACROSS THE 3 YELLOW LEADS. YOU SHOULD GET CONT. WITH ANY COMBINATION OF THE THREE WIRES. NOW TEST EASH YELLOW LEAD TO GROUND. THERE SHOULD BE "NO" CONT. BETWEEN ANY YELLOW AND GROUND. IF THERE IS, IT IS SHORTED AND WILL NEED REPLACING.
ON A BIKE OF THIS AGE IT ISNT UNUSUAL FOR THE STARTER BUTTON TO "RESIST" SOMETIMES. THIS IS IN THE PSUH BUTTON ITSELF.SOMETIMES YOU CAN REPAIR THESE CONTACTS AND SOMETIMES YOU CANT. IF IT CLICKS WHEN YOU PRESS THE START BUTTON, THAT COULD BE THE START RELAY OR A BAD WIRE CONNECTION. CHECK THESE ALSO WHEN YOU CHECK YOUR BATTERY!

Oct 22, 2009 | 1986 kawasaki ZL 900 A2 Eliminator

1 Answer

KLX 250 won't fire - new battery


-check the fuse right hand side below the fuel tank and seat, see if it is blown.
- Check to see if plug has spark, replace if necessary .
- Did you run the bike with a low battery before replacing it? could be that your stator is shot.
-Is bike trying to start but won't?

Mar 21, 2009 | 2007 kawasaki KLX 250

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