Question about 1995 Suzuki GSX 750 F (Katana)

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My clutch lever is really hard to pull in on my suzuki gsxf 1995 functions fine but how do i ease it up a bit

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Try this site.

Good Luck

Posted on Sep 14, 2010

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Clutch is slipping on 80 Suzuki gn 400x

Is it time to re-adjust the length of the clutch cable because it keeps pulling all the time? Is the small spring near the sprocket still there? (this problem happens on gsxF and bandit). Is your mileage so high that the clutch gets tired and the friction elements must be replaced?

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Old clutch cable snapped, tried replacing with new one, no pressure on the cable?

The first thing that comes to mind is that the new clutch cable is not the correct length (too long). Did you compare the old one with the new one? When you pull in the clutch lever you should be able to see the clutch release lever at the transmission move. If the lever is not moving then the cable is too long or needs adjustment.

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1. Is it a new bike for you? or do you own it for a while?
2. try checking the clutch. it might need tightning. try from the lever on the top. if you don't know how to, then ask a mechanic.

3. check if you need to "rev it up". when lowering a gear, you let go of the throttle, pull the clutch, give a quick twist of the throttle (pull and let go) while lowering a gear to match the rev's of the engine to the gear, and ease of the clutch off.

4. check you oil level. Some bikes are very sensitive to low oil. My v strom when hitting half, will start acting out with the gear.

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Mar 21, 2014 | 1988 Suzuki GSX 750 ES

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Suzuki gsxf 750 katana manual in english

Try a download from

Oct 26, 2013 | Suzuki Motorcycles

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1997 Suzuki Intruder VS800...starts, runs, stalls

Hi, Anonymous the ignition circuit cut-off system comprising of the side stand switch, clutch switch and neutral switch has the following functions:
a. It prevents starting when the transmission is in gear and the side stand is up, but the clutch lever is not pulled.
b. It prevents starting when the transmission is in gear and the clutch lever is pulled, but the side stand is still down.
c. It cuts the running engine when the transmission is in gear and the side stand is moved down.
Periodically check the operation of the ignition circuit cut-off system according to the following tests.
With the engine turned off:
1. Move the side stand down.
2. Make sure that the engine stop switch is set to "RUN"
3. Turn the key to "ON".
4. Shift the transmission into the neutral position.
5. Push the start switch if the engine does not start the neutral switch may be faulty.
With the engine still running:
6. Move the side stand up.
7. Keep the clutch lever pulled.
8. Shift the transmission into gear.
9. Move the side stand down if the engine does not stall you may have a faulty side stand switch.
After the engine has stalled:
10. Move the side stand up.
11. Keep the clutch lever pulled.
12. Push the start switch if the engine does not start you may have a faulty clutch switch.
This check is most reliable if performed with a warmed-up engine.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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How do I change fork seals

Thank you for contacting FixYa with your inquiry.
With new clutch frictions you will notice you have to pull the clutch lever a little further to disengage. This is normal but there are a couple of things you can do to help ease the pull.
  1. Go down to a Power Transmission Distributor or Industrial Bearing Supply House and purchase a can of graphite lubrication with the long metal dispensing tube. It's needle thin nozzle fits between the casing and the clutch wire and will allow you to lubricate your clutch cable and ease a lot of the pull tension. Give it a good coat frequently.
  2. Make sure your clutch cable is not pinched or kinked anyplace or has sharp turns. Wire ties can help cable management.
  3. You might be able to lengthen the small clutch engagement lever which really helps a ton. We used to cut them and weld a 1/2 inch adder in the center which increased the leverage and the pull became a one finger operation. Might be some longer aftermarket levers. Wrist muscles and tendons get sore after a long day riding with a lot stops that require clutching. Normal riding/racing you seldom use the clutch other than to get started.
Let us know if we can be of further service.
Kind regards,

Jul 01, 2011 | 2005 KTM 525 MXC Desert Racing

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Can it be that after 11,000 miles the clutch is burned, bec i am feeling it slipping a bit?

It is possible, but really depends on how the bike was treated for those 11K miles. One thing you should check is that the clutch cable is properly adjusted. There should be some free-play at the clutch lever - see the owner's manual, but the first 1/4" or so of clutch lever movement should do nothing except take up slack out of the cable. Insufficient free play at the lever will cause the clutch to not engage fully, and slip.

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is there any slack in the cable, i mean can you pull the clutch lever in just a bit with no tension? im not certain with that bike, but there my be a internal adjustment that may help. if not then its likely you need to replace the clutch plates. hope this helps..

May 19, 2009 | 2001 Suzuki DR 200 SE

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Ease Clutch Pull

STM Clutch Slave Cylinder: 30mm - will make the clutch pull easier and CRG Roll-A-Click Brake/Clutch Lever: Brembo - will give a more comfortable distance for you.

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