Question about 1985 Suzuki GSX 1100 E
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: remove license plate
Pull the 4 bolts off the bottom. Then follow the wire up. Take off the side that the wire goes up into by pushing in the center of the black clips until they pop loose. After the side is off, there is a small white wiring harness that you can pull apart and split without cutting. There is a small button on the harness you have to push in order to get it to come apart. Should take 30 minutes if you've never had the plastic off before, 10 if you have.
Posted on Nov 10, 2008
SOURCE: Slipping in second gear
The problem you are having is in the transmission. You have lost the second gear shift fork and the drive gear on the main shaft minimum, there is a good chance you also will have to replace the second gear wheel as well.
The good news is you may not have to remove the top end when preforming this repair but you will have to split the lower cases to access the transmission.
Below is the link you can access to see how the transmission is put together and it also has the prices for the parts you may need.
GSF 1200 Parts , just click on the link and it will take you to the page to see the parts. The gears are just at $100.00 and the shift fork will cost around $32.00. Essentially the parts are not too bad but you will also need a complete engine gasket set as well. I'd buy the complete set including the top end just in case you might want to freshen up the engine.
My recommendation would be to at the minimum replace the piston rings as well. Make sure you use an AN400 honing stone and you want about a 30 degree cross hatch in the hone pattern. Do NOT get crazy when honing because you are removing precious material which will increase piston to cylinder wall clearance. You pretty much want to just remove the "glaze" in the cylinders when replacing the rings. I'd also recommend doing a leak down test on the valves. All you need to do is pour a solvent down the ports to make sure they are not leaking.
I'm getting a little carried away here so if you would like further assistance please send me a reply.
Hope this helps you!
Posted on Dec 27, 2008
I have the same bike doing the same thing, I think this problem is caused by running regular or synthetic motor oils intended for cars rather than using motorcycle specific 10- 40wt. Motorcycle specific oils have friction properties that support long life of the friction plates in your clutch, regular motor oils can cause your friction plates to heat up and glaze over. I think That's what gives you that grabby all or nothing feel when taking off from a stop.
Posted on Mar 24, 2010
Wave washer on the face of the clutch basket may have lost its tension, clutch friction plates may be wearing thin as she's an old girl. Some automotive (car) oils not specifically designed for wet clutches when used in a bike will cause the clutch to slip as they are designed to leave a deposit on friction areas. This will require a thorough flush and a few oil changes in quick succession.
Check the return function of the clutch release arm on the crankcase, they can bunch up the rubber shroud and not return fully. Good luck and Cheers.
Posted on May 08, 2010
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