Question about 2001 Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic

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My starter wouldn't turn the bike over so I removed it and found the 8mm bolts were twisted. I loosened the bolts realigned them and installed the starter. It seems to work now but turning over slowly and sometimes disengages. Can the twisted starter problem cause the starter to be perminently damaged?

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I had this problem too, first try to sand your starter colector, it may works, but if not just replace your starter

Posted on Sep 13, 2010

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98 W/Glide forks out of alignment how do I straighten them?


Hi, Max if your front forks are only twisted and not bent they can be realigned, start by jacking the bike up so the front wheel is off the ground; a half-inch or so will do it.
If the forks have been removed from the bike:
1. Set the fork height in the upper clamp, and then tighten the pinch bolts in 3 equal stages to the proper torque. If you're not convinced that the heights are equal, slip the axle into place. If it doesn't glide smoothly through the forks, one leg is higher than the other, so readjust them until the axle slides through them with little or no effort.
2. Install the front fender but don't tighten the bolts.
3. Install the front wheel and axle. If the axle threads into the fork, thread it in loosely, if it uses a nut, just snug the nut down by hand. Do not tighten the axle pinch bolts.
4. Spin the wheel as fast as you can and abruptly pull on the brake lever. Holding the brake lever on, tighten the front axle.
5. Lower the bike onto the ground, and, while holding the front brake, gently pump the forks a few times. You did remember to tighten those upper pinch bolts, didn't you?
6. Tighten the lower clamp's pinch bolts in 3 equal stages, followed by the axle pinch bolts to the proper torque.
7. Tighten and torque the fender bolts.
If you suspect the forks are tweaked but don't want to go through the procedure above there is an easier way.
A. Support the weight of the bike on the jack or center stand, and loosen the front axle.
B. Remove the lock nut, and then try to slide the axle out of the fork. If it comes away with little effort, the forks are in alignment. If the axle has to be pounded out, it's a safe bet the forks are slightly tweaked or rusted.
C. To correct a slight misalignment, loosen everything but the top clamp pinch bolts (you don't have to remove anything), and start at Step #3. Anytime the wheel is removed, perform steps #4 and #5: that'll center the wheel in the fork and provide better suspension and braking action.
If your forks are aligned but your handlebars are twisted start by loosening the handlebar clamp bolts, then in a criss-cross pattern tighten the bolts in 3 equal stages to the proper torque. You will see that tightening a specific corner pulls the handle bar in a specific direction you can loosen and tighten the bolts on one clamp to achieve proper eyeball alignment, it may take a few attempts to get the desired results.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a nice day.
Harley Davidson Manuals Mark Workshop
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/stcharlesharleydavidson/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc
https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/vehicle/lookupForm
Instant Tech Relief A must have !!! Absolutely Totally "FREE"

Nov 01, 2016 | Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide...

Tip

Bottom Bracket & Spindle Replacement of LeMond RevMaster


Part 1 Video Discussing the Dis-assembly & Inspection of the Bottom Bracket & Spindle for a LeMond RevMaster Bike

  • This Part 1 video will demonstrate how to inspect and adjust or remove and replace the bottom bracket and spindle on your Lemond Revmaster
  • Tools needed for this procedure:
    • 8mm Allen Wrench or Socket
    • Cotterless Crank Puller Tool
    • Lock Ring Removal Tool
    • Bottom Bracket Tool
    • Phillips Screwdriver
    • 4mm Allen Wrench
    • Bungee (optional)
    • Rubber Mallet
    • 7/8" Wrench
  • To begin remove the belt cover, there are four screws
    • You will need a 4MM Allen wrench
  • Now remove the two screws on the back from the opposite side of the bike
    • You will need a Phillips screwdriver
  • Now position the crank arm as seen in the video and remove the belt cover from the bike
  • Before removing the drive belt, tighten the brake assembly so that the flywheel is locked in place and loosen the torque on both bolts using an 8mm Allen wrench or socket
    • Do not remove them at this time only loosen them by a half a turn or so
  • Using a 7/8" wrench loosen the belt idler
  • Now use a 4mm Allen wrench to loosen the tension adjustment bolt completely, but do not remove it from the frame
  • Now remove the drive belt
    • To aid in this process you can use a bungee to slide in behind the belt at the top, as shown in the video
  • Then pull away from the bike while spinning the crank arms
  • Now remove both crank bolts with a 8MM Allen wrench or socket
    • Removal of the crank bolt on the left side of the bike is the same as removal from the right side
  • Now remove the crank arms with a crank arm puller, threading the outer portion into the crank arm as shown in the video
    • Be sure to thread the outer portion in as far as possible to prevent damage to the crank arm threads or the tools threads
    • Use a 7/8" wrench to make sure the outer portion is threaded in completely
    • Now spin the handle clockwise to press the crank arm off of the bike
    • Be careful when the crank arm comes off as if you are not holding it, it can fall in the floor
    • Also use the wrench to loosen the tool before removing the crank arm from the unit
    • Now you can unthread the tool from the cranks arm by hand after removing the crank arm from the bike
  • Next inspect the bottom bracket cups for looseness, to do this use the bottom bracket tool by hand to see if you can turn either of the bearing cups
    • To further verify the adjustment of your bottom bracket use a rubber mallet to tap lightly on each side of the spindle to check for movement from side to side, if you have movement, or one or both of the bearing cups is loose, you need to re-adjust the bottom bracket. If you are only inspecting the bottom bracket and did not find any need for adjustment you would re-assemble the bike at this point
  • Once the crank arms are removed look closely at the spindle
    • It should have defined edges and be smooth
  • As you can see by the video our spindle needs to be replaced
  • Next you will need to remove the lock ring
    • The lock ring is around the bottom bracket cup on the left side of the bike
      • In the video is an example of a lock ring
    • To use the lock ring tool you slip it over the lock ring using the three notches and torque the lock ring in the proper direction
      • This one needs to be turned counter-clockwise to loosen
    • Then remove the lock ring by spinning it off the bearing cup
  • Next you will need to use the bottom bracket tool to remove the bottom bracket cups
    • Begin with the left side
      • Slip the tool into the splines of the cup and loosen
        • For stubborn bottom brackets use a 5/16"-24 x 2" bolt and some washers with a 1-1/4" wrench
          • Slip the tool into the splines and thread the bolt with the washers into the spindle
          • Get it snug but not completely tight
      • Now use the wrench to turn the cup counter-clockwise for the left side and remove it completely
    • Remove the cup from the right side now
      • Slip the bottom bracket tool into the splines of the cup and turn it clockwise to loosen
        • For stubborn bottom brackets use a 5/16"-24 x 2" bolt and some washers with a 1-1/4" wrench
          • Slip the tool into the splines and thread the bolt with the washers into the spindle
    • If you cannot get the cups loose with this method try turning the bike on its side to get better leverage as shown in the video
  • This concludes the dis-assembly and inspection procedure of the LeMond RevMaster bottom bracket & spindle
  • Click here to see Part 2, re-assembly and installation to complete the replacement procedure
Video of Bottom Bracket and Spindle Replacement Part 1 Dis assembly LeMond...

on Feb 19, 2015 | Lemond Revmaster Lemond G-Force Digital...

1 Answer

I'm having some issues with cranking my 1994 Suzuki gsxr750w, when i hit starter button i hear solenoid switch click and starter spin but it doesn't turn the motor. The bike has been sitting for a while so...


ok it sounds like it has reversed polarity, try this, loosen the long bolts in the starter and just twist the casing a little one way, pinch up bolts and try again, if still doing it loosen and turn the other way, this happened to my busa well one of them lol good luck, Ill put a fiver on it that's the problem. haha reverse this apparently profanity the daft sods pin means to slightly tighten ni9 p

Mar 23, 2015 | Suzuki Motorcycles

1 Answer

How do i change the starter 92 gmc k1500 4.3L 5spd.


You will need more tools than your hands can hold, it seems you always have to go back for a look-for.
Take off the negative battery cable- if it is side post, use an 8mm box end wrench. Tuck the cable end away, so no chance of slipping back and making contact. Then rumple yourself under the truck. GM starters have two 15mm mounting bolts, inserted from underneath straight up into the engine block. Sometimes there is a small support bracket on the front end of the starter, held by a 10mm screw or bolt. But first, you want to take off the electrical connections, and note carefully where they are attached. The end of the positive battery cable and any accompanying wires will be on the large post on the starter solenoid (mounted on top of the starter motor). Loosen and remove the nut for this post and pull the wires off. A small purple wire will be on another smaller post, held on by a small nut, about 8mm, or 5/16 in. maybe. This is the wire from the ignition switch that in start is hot and connects the positive battery cable to the starter motor. Keep note of how and where they came from. Now take out the mounting bolts and the starter should be free. Sometimes there is a small plastic hood or shield that covers the mounting bolts. A small 10mm screw holds it on.
Now put the new one on in reverse order.
Sometimes happens that the electrical connections are most difficult to reach and to loosen or tighten when the starter is bolted up. If you have to, loosen or remove the mount bolts, and tip the starter down to get to those connections. Just don't let the starter hang by the wires. Make sure the connections on the new starter are clean and tight..

May 30, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do I remove a starter on a 1996 Chrysler lhs.


Remove positive battery cable. Look for starter on transmission bell housing. there will be two bolts to the housing, and three wire connections all to loosen and remove. But first make notes, mental or physically make a diagram, to correctly install new starter. It may take twisting starter to get it out from it's location. Reverse process.

May 09, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

How do i remove the oil pump


    1.Loosen the wheel nuts on both front wheels
    2.Raise the front of the vehicle, both sides
    3.Removes the front wheels
    4.Remove the both side ball joint bolts and lift the suspension of the ball joint using a steel bar or similar,
    5.Remove both inner cv joints from the vehicle
    6.Remove the battery and the plastic battery housing;
    7.Remove the air intake pipe
    8.Drain the oil from the sump
    9.Remove the resonator from the gearbox, hydraulic hose from the gearbox, reverse gear switch, speedo cable.
    10.Remove the two bell housing bolts on the top (next to the cylinder head). Take one bolt to a local tools and hardware and source the exact thread bolt but buy bolts that are approx 5/6cm longer - buy 5 bolts to be safe. Replace the two bolts removed with the longer ones.
    11.Remove the starter motor and power cables;
    12.Remove the bolt above the starter motor and insert a long bolt here
    13.Next remove all bolts mounting the sump,
    14.At the back of the engine (side where the manifold is) remove all bolts and insert one long bolt. Note none of the long bolts should be mounted into the oil pan (sump).
    15.Use a support bar to support the engine and gearbox assembly (I made one using a steel pipe and bolted this onto the engine strut bolts;
    16.Using a 17 socket and long extension remove the gearbox mounting (3 nuts), Lower the gearbox side of the engine so that the mounting bolts clear the engine mounting;
    17.Insert a large screw driver or similar between the engine and gearbox assembly and separate them (note most gearbox will separate itself);
    18.You will notice a +/- 4 to 5 cm space between but the gearbox and engine is still joined together by the longer bolts.
    19.Using a long 8mm "t" socket as shown below, insert this between the fly wheel and onto the sump bolt (x2) and remove them. Using a normal 8mm spanner / socket remove all other sump bolts. The sump can now be removed from the vehicle.
    20.[Information for using a 8mm special tool: note that the Gedore 8mm or similar will not work between the fly wheel and sump]. I had bought a cheap small 8mm socket {it comes 8mm, 10mm and 12mm in a three way small socket - cost about R12} I cut off the 8mm from this and joined a long steel rod to it and also a handle which made is a "special" T socket spanner, similar to the image below.
    Once the sump is off you will be able to remove the oil pump
    21.Install in reverse order as described above.

remove-oil-pump-j5ekklqbg0r4og3swv24qsbc-4-0.png

Dec 10, 2012 | 2005 Ford Bantam 1.3i

1 Answer

How I remove the starter for Jeep Liberty 2002


you must remove front prop (if 4 wheel drive) 8mm bolts after removeing half the bolts put transfer in nutural turn the prop and remove rest of bolts,. prop will compress and can be moved out of the way. be sure battery is disconnected.starter is held on with 15mm bolts losen these and the 13mm and 8mm electrical connectorbolts starter can now be removed reverse procedure to install.

Aug 15, 2010 | 2002 Jeep Liberty

1 Answer

Replace the starter


For 1997 Ford Aspire 1.3L EFI SOHC 4cyl check this procedure...

Removal & Installation
Models With Automatic Transaxle
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the two upper starter motor retaining bolts.
  3. Raise and support the vehicle using safety stands.
  4. Loosen the two intake manifold support bolts and remove the support.
  5. Loosen the support bracket bolts and remove the bracket.
  6. Loosen the starter motor support nuts and washers, then remove the support.
When removing the hard shell connector at terminal S, grasp the plastic shell. Do not pull on the wire.
  1. Disengage the S terminal connection from the solenoid.
  2. Loosen the B terminal washer and nut, then disengage the electrical connection from the solenoid.
  3. Loosen the lower starter motor bolt and remove the starter motor from the vehicle.
6884007.jpg

Fig. 2: Starter motor mounting and electrical connections-models with automatic transaxles (click for zoom)


To install:
  1. Position the starter in the vehicle.
  2. Install the lower starter motor bolt and tighten to 23-34 ft. lbs. (31-46 Nm).
  3. Engage the S and B terminal electrical connections.
When installing the hard shell connector, be careful to push it straight on and make sure it locks in position with a notable click or detent.
  1. Install the starter motor support and tighten the retainers to 35-44 inch lbs. (4-5 Nm).
  2. Install the support bracket and tighten the retaining bolts.
  3. Install the intake manifold support bracket and tighten the retainers to 12-14 ft. lbs. (16-22 Nm).
  4. Lower the vehicle.
  5. Install the starter motor upper retaining bolts and tighten them to 23-34 ft. lbs. (31-46 Nm).
  6. Connect the negative battery cable.

Models With Manual Transaxle
See Figure 11
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Loosen the B terminal washer and nut, then disengage the electrical connection from the solenoid.
When removing the hard shell connector at terminal S, grasp the plastic shell. Do not pull on the wire.
  1. Disengage the S terminal connection from the solenoid.
  2. Remove the two starter support bolts.
  3. Loosen the starter motor support nuts and washers, then remove the support.
  4. Loosen the starter motor bolts and remove the starter motor from the vehicle.
807a17f.jpg

Fig. 11: Starter motor mounting and electrical connections-models with manual transaxles (click for zoom)



To install:
  1. Position the starter in the vehicle.
  2. Install the starter motor bolts and tighten to 23-34 ft. lbs. (31-46 Nm).
  3. Engage the S and B terminal electrical connections.
When installing the hard shell connector, be careful to push it straight on and make sure it locks in position with a notable click or detent.
  1. Install the starter motor support and tighten the nuts to 35-44 inch lbs. (4-5 Nm).
  2. Install the starter motor support bolts and tighten them to 14-18 ft. lbs. (19-25 Nm).
  3. Connect the negative battery cable.


Hope helps (remember comment and rated this).



Aug 05, 2010 | 1997 Ford Aspire

1 Answer

Changing the starter on a Kia Spectra


Here's step-by-step instructions on how to access, remove and re-install your alternator. Hope it helps! Have a great day!

Alternator Kia_Sephia_Rio_Spectra_Optima_1998-2006
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Temporarily loosen the water pump pulley bolts, 1.6L (VIN 3) engine only.
  4. Remove the front air intake inlet pipe bolts, 1.8L engine only.
  5. Remove the top hose from the air intake inlet pipe, 1.8L engine only.
  6. Remove the air intake inlet pipe clamp and the pipe, 1.8L engine only.
  7. Remove the power steering pump, 2.0L engine only.
  8. Remove the power steering pump bracket, 2.0L engine only.
  9. Remove the alternator B terminal cover cap.
  10. Disconnect the alternator electrical connections.
  11. Loosen, but do not remove the alternator pivot bolt and the tensioner mounting bolt.
  12. Remove the drive belt(s); relieve tension on the belt by rotating the adjustment bolt.
  13. Remove the water pump pulley, 1.6L (VIN 3) engine only.
  14. Remove the power steering pump, 1.6L (VIN 3) engine only.
  15. Remove the power steering pump bracket, 1.6L (VIN 3) engine only.
  16. Remove the alternator tensioner mounting bolt and the belt tensioner.
  17. Remove the alternator pivot bolt.
  18. Loosen the bolt at the base of the adjusting bracket and rotate the bracket up.
  19. Remove the alternator. 0900c15280028419.jpgAlternator mounting—1.5L and 1.6L (VIN 5) engine shown 0900c1528002841a.jpgAlternator mounting—2.0L and 1.6L (VIN 3) engines shown 0900c1528002841b.jpgAlternator mounting—2.4L and 2.7L engine
To install:
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Install the alternator.
  3. Install the alternator pivot bolt and hand-tighten at this time.
  4. Rotate the adjusting bracket into position, place the belt tensioner into position. Hand-tighten the mounting bolt.
  5. Install the drive belt.
  6. Adjust the belt tension by rotating the adjustment bolt.
  7. The belt deflection for 1.5L, 1.6L (VIN 5), 2.4L and 2.7L engines, is as follows:
    1. New belt: 0.22-0.28 in. (5.5-7mm).
    2. Used belt: 0.24-0.28 in. (6-7mm).
  8. The belt deflection for 1.6L (VIN 3) engine is as follows :
    1. New belt: 0.13-0.15 in. (3.3-3.7mm).
    2. Used belt: 0.17-0.19 in. (4.2-4.7mm).
  9. The belt deflection for the 2.0L engine, is as follows:
    1. New belt: 0.22-0.31 in. (5.5-8mm).
    2. Used belt: 0.33-0.45 in. (8.5-11.5mm).
  10. The belt deflection for the 1.8L engine, is as follows:
    1. New belt: 0.23-0.31 in. (6-8mm).
    2. Used belt: 0.28-0.35 in. (7-9mm).
  11. Tighten the tensioner bolt to 14-19 ft. lbs. (19-26 Nm) and the pivot bolt to 28-38 ft. lbs. (38-51 Nm).
  12. Connect the alternator electrical connections.
  13. Install the alternator B terminal cover cap.
  14. Install the power steering pump and adjust the power steering belt tension, 2.0L and 1.6L (VIN 3) engines only.
  15. Install the water pump pulley, 2006 1.6L engine only.
  16. Install the air intake inlet pipe and fasten the clamp, 1.8L engine only.
  17. Install the top hose to the air intake inlet pipe, 1.8L engine only.
  18. Install the front air intake inlet pipe bolts, 1.8L engine only.
  19. Connect the negative battery cable.
 

Nov 23, 2008 | 2003 Kia Spectra

3 Answers

STARTER - 1993 cutlass ciera


According to Chilton's, and assuming you have the 3300 V-6, it won't be fun. The first instruction is to drain the air conditioning system, and remove the front manifold. The starter is between the engine and the radiator. The deal breaker for me is the A/C draining/refill. If anyone knows of a way to avoid the A/C drain, let me know. Otherwise, I may just preemptively replace mine before my buddy runs low on R-12.

Jul 02, 2008 | 1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera

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