Question about 2006 Honda CRF 250 R
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Auto Decompression problem
Dirt Bike Valve Adjustment on 04 09 Honda CRF250R Do it Properly
Honda 2004 CRF250R Service Manual
HONDA CRF250R 2006 Owner Manual
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Posted on Jun 19, 2017
Sounds like this is the decompression lever area.. did you leave/forget something out?? This lever should have a cable connected to it... If you paid someone to do this... take it back!!
Posted on Jun 19, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: crf250r starting problem
try jetting the bike. the hondas come stock with horrible jetting which make them a bear to start, even compared to other high-performance 4 strokes.
Posted on Jul 02, 2009
you better check for valve clearance.....and to be honest you're intake valve maybe to tight and kept open.....you will reajust it but this will last a ride or two...because maybe the mobdelium coating is done on the intake valve and it is getting tight all the time and kept open....put two new oem valve from honda and you will be back on the track....sometimes i also never rectify any angle on the seat of the valve, just put new one and go.....honda as getting better since 2007....more good quality of coating on the valve....if you bought new valve for an older model they will come with that upgraded and last longer.
Posted on Sep 24, 2009
The water pump seal is maybe gone.This would allow water into the trans.Get it checked and also that the bearing hasn,t spun in its location.This may cause the color change.Being a grey color,it may indicate aluminium in the oil.This may be the spun bearing turning in the housing.With what you wrote,I would get these things looked at.I hope this helps you
Posted on Nov 03, 2009
SOURCE: Valve adjustment
Hi CX'er, This is getting basic, but in a 4 stroke engine there are 2 TDC spots . One being the completion of the exhaust stroke, and the second is the completion of the compression stroke . Give her one more turn and the valves will close . I hope that you are using the 17mm port under the radiator to turn the engine . It is the same as the port you are using to view the flywheel markings . Before I begin for the first time, I re-torque the heads . You must use a torque wrench, or risk breaking a bolt ! If you do it afterwards, your valve clearance settings will change . Accuracy is very important, check for tight drag, and check with next thinner for free clearance . Too tight can burn an exhaust valve . I set them to a tight drag, about .001 under, but I verify the clearance, twice . When you do the left side, don't forget to loosen the 10mm cam chain adjusting nut one turn (in front of the flywheel view port). Listen for the little click as the tension spring snaps in to take up the slack, and tighten, that's it . Make 'em purr, J
Posted on Nov 28, 2009
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