Question about 2006 MV Agusta F4 1000 S 1-1

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F4 2007 312r . front brakes fading .brake lever slowly pulling into handle grip? have bled brakes but no different.

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The master cylinder seals are worn and will have to be replaced. The reason the lever alowly comes closer to the grip is brake fluid is leaking past the seals back into the reservoir. No amount of bleeding will solve this.

Posted on Sep 11, 2010

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Front brake not working.changed pads and bled system


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Tighten loose front grip on harley


Sorry but I do not understand your question, what year and model Harley do you have?

What do you mean by front brake grip as there is a front brake lever and a hand grip on the right handlebar. I do not see how the wind could blow the brake lever back as you would be going forward and the wind would blow the lever back which is the direction it would go to release the brake switch. If the hand grip is loose the whole control bracket and switch assembly would have to be very loose to cause such a symptom but anyway with more of a clear description of your problem someone may be able to help you figure out a fix for whatever is wrong.

Aug 19, 2014 | Harley Davidson Motorcycles

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I have rebuilt the calipers new seals and pistons plus the master cylinders and i cant get to work bled them still no brakes any ideas


Hi, this will be air in the system which needs to be bled out, after a rebuild the air can become traped.the first thing you need to do is make sure you remove the air from the master cylinder end, tou will need a brake hose clamp, if you dont have one you can use 2 small sockets between a pair of grip jaws, clamp the hose as close as you can to the mastercylinder, now pull the lever and feel for pressure, next undo both bleed nipples with a pipe fitted to catch the fluid, with the nipples open slightly release the pressure on the grips pull in the lever all the way, but dont release the lever until you have re applied the pressure to the grips, this will ensure you dont let air back into the mastercylinder, so its release grips pull lever in , reclamp grips release lever, repeat this a couple of times then leave clamped, now when you pull lever it should be solid, if so you have removed all the air from the master cylinder, making sure you keep the fluid level toped up at all times, you can now continue this process closing off one nipple and forcing out the air, repeate on other side till all air is removed, you may then wish to bleed as usual to finnish off, this task should only be used if the machine still has the original rubber brake lines fitted, good luck

Sep 11, 2011 | 1986 Honda GL 1200 Aspencade Gold Wing

1 Answer

How can you tell if you need a master cylinder rebuild on a 2004 suzuki 750.. Because my front brake goes out after I bleed them but it takes couple of weeks... I've bled them 3 times and I've had...


Hi, my thoughts are directed more towards the calipers, pads, or even a worn or warped disc, if you still have the rubber brake lines fitted, when you have a reduced brake effort, clamp your brake line as close to the master cylinder as poss with a pipe clamp or a pair of smooth jaw. Grips. If your mastercylinder is faulty the feel in the lever will remain the same with or without the clamped lines, if the feel of the lever is verry firm with no travel the mastercylinder is holding pressure, you can then try moving the clamp further down the line, rechecking the feel at the lever at different points

Jun 12, 2011 | 2004 Suzuki GSX-R 750

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1997 Ford contour rear brake shoe replacment help.


Brake shoe removel:

Depress and turn the retainers for the hold-down springs and pins to remove them from each shoe. Slide the brake shoe assembly--including the shoes and springs--down so you can disengage the top ends of the shoes from the cylinder and tilt them to lift them past the retaining plate.

Unhook the lower retracting spring from the front brake shoe to disconnect it. Spread the shoes apart at the bottom to remove the adjusting screw, the screw's retracting spring and the adjuster lever. Remove the front brake shoe.

Pull the parking brake cable spring back with diagonal cutting pliers, grip the cable with the pliers without cutting it, unhook the cable from the parking brake lever and remove the rear brake shoe with the lever.

Disconnect the parking brake lever from the rear shoe by spreading the retaining clip with a screwdriver and removing the clip and its spring washer.
  • Step 4 Pull the parking brake cable spring back with diagonal cutting pliers, grip the cable with the pliers without cutting it, unhook the cable from the parking brake lever and remove the rear brake shoe with the lever.
  • Step 5 Disconnect the parking brake lever from the rear shoe by spreading the retaining clip with a screwdriver and removing the clip and its spring washer.

  • Read more: How to Change Rear Brakes on a 1997 Ford Taurus | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_6123373_change-brakes-1997-ford-taurus.html#ixzz0u2xgUqun
  • Step 3 Unhook the lower retracting spring from the front brake shoe to disconnect it. Spread the shoes apart at the bottom to remove the adjusting screw, the screw's retracting spring and the adjuster lever. Remove the front brake shoe.
  • Step 4 Pull the parking brake cable spring back with diagonal cutting pliers, grip the cable with the pliers without cutting it, unhook the cable from the parking brake lever and remove the rear brake shoe with the lever.

  • Read more: How to Change Rear Brakes on a 1997 Ford Taurus | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_6123373_change-brakes-1997-ford-taurus.html#ixzz0u2xdByQ8

  • Step 2 Slide the brake shoe assembly--including the shoes and springs--down so you can disengage the top ends of the shoes from the cylinder and tilt them to lift them past the retaining plate.
  • Step 3 Unhook the lower retracting spring from the front brake shoe to disconnect it. Spread the shoes apart at the bottom to remove the adjusting screw, the screw's retracting spring and the adjuster lever. Remove the front brake shoe.
  • Step 4 Pull the parking brake cable spring back with diagonal cutting pliers, grip the cable with the pliers without cutting it, unhook the cable from the parking brake lever and remove the rear brake shoe with the lever.
  • Step 5 Disconnect the parking brake lever from the rear shoe by spreading the retaining clip with a screwdriver and removing the clip and its spring washer.

  • Read more: How to Change Rear Brakes on a 1997 Ford Taurus | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_6123373_change-brakes-1997-ford-taurus.html#ixzz0u2xVyUAt

  • Step 2 Slide the brake shoe assembly--including the shoes and springs--down so you can disengage the top ends of the shoes from the cylinder and tilt them to lift them past the retaining plate.
  • Step 3 Unhook the lower retracting spring from the front brake shoe to disconnect it. Spread the shoes apart at the bottom to remove the adjusting screw, the screw's retracting spring and the adjuster lever. Remove the front brake shoe.
  • Step 4 Pull the parking brake cable spring back with diagonal cutting pliers, grip the cable with the pliers without cutting it, unhook the cable from the parking brake lever and remove the rear brake shoe with the lever.
  • Step 5 Disconnect the parking brake lever from the rear shoe by spreading the retaining clip with a screwdriver and removing the clip and its spring washer.

  • Read more: How to Change Rear Brakes on a 1997 Ford Taurus | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_6123373_change-brakes-1997-ford-taurus.html#ixzz0u2xVyUAt

    Jul 17, 2010 | 1995 Ford Contour

    1 Answer

    Spongy Front brakes, braided hoses fitted direct to each caliper from master cylinder, also replaced brake master cylinder seals, bleed them to death, to remove air, pressure remains constant at brake...


    try using a line locker close to master cyclinder ,lever should go rock hard if it has no air in system,work line locker down lines to see if lever stays hard.
    also check the lever travel to make sure that lever is pushing on master cyclinder plunger as a lot of after market levers dont have correct casting and have to travel in a long way before brakes work even when system is bled. also check to make sure calliper carriers are not bent and pads not sitting square on rotors.
    hope this helps

    Apr 19, 2010 | 1990 kawasaki ZZR 1100

    2 Answers

    The housing of my brakes on the handle bars is loose and keeps moving. how do i tighten it so that it stops moving when i apply pressure on it and/or squeeze the brake lever??


    If the screw is all the way tight and still slipping ... try to find a fatter part of the handle bar to mount the grip to. You will probably will not find any such that is convenient for you to continue to use the brake ... remove the grip, wrap some electrical tape around the handle bar, reattach the grip. Tighten it and give it a try.

    I hope this works for you

    a

    Oct 12, 2009 | GMC Denali Road Bike

    1 Answer

    I had new front pads fitted to my ZX10r 06-07 when i pulled on the brake lever it was nice and sharp + the lever would only come in a short distance to the throttle grip..2 weeks on the brake lever nearly...


    Possibly 2 problems m8.
    If the brake-lever travel has increased then it either wasn't bled up properly or it's allowing air past the seals in the master-cylinder.
    Try tying the lever back to the bar overnight to bring any air in the system up to the top (resevoir) and see if the brakes stay good, if not they'll need bleeding again.
    Check for any leaks around all the banjo connections, up at the bars and down at the calipers, plus have a close inspection of the master-cylinder piston area for leaks.
    The juddering might be down to a warped disc or two, get the front wheel off the ground and spin the wheel to check for this visually or with a stick and pointer.

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    Bleeding brakes


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    Bicycles Brakes Tightening


    Are the brakes center pull or side pull?
    Center pull would have a nut directly in the center of the brake. Now go to the brake lever on your handle bars and tighten the turn screw where the cable handle is. Keep turning the nut till your brakes grip.
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