98 toyota camry spark plug wire keeps poping out of manifold and makes engine run sluggish ( runs good when you push it back in ) is there any way to keep wire from poping out ? ( Im unable to push spark plug wire firmly in to manifold like the other three are )

Hello, this engine has 3 ignition coils on the passenger side cylinder head, each coil fires two spark plugs, the spark plugs on thew other side have plug wires connected to one of the coils on the other side, the #6 cylinder wire connects to the #3 coil, try replacing the spark plug wires

please RUN the scanner and computer for diagnostic. can be a sensors faulty. and make the TUNE UP. some cable, spark plug, or EMP defective, or coil.
God bless you

romove poping plug start engine if thier is major air pressure coming outyou have ahole in your piston replace piston overhaule kitand new piston possible thred damage on head,replace cat,and get a dog:) good luck.

Being that you have a 1998 Toyota Camry, these cars are fuel injected and shouldnt need the gas pedal depressed to feed fuel to your engine. It's possible you may have a dirty fuel pump or dirty injectors. Here are some possible steps (cheapest in $) so follow these in order to spend less money.
- Run some Lucas Fuel System Cleaner (green cap bottle), do two treatments of that in your gas tank and see if that makes a difference. Dirty lines and clogged injectors are caused by cheap gas and or constantly running on Empty thus allowing fuel pump to pick up sediment from bottom of gas tank.
- Sputtering could also be worn spark plugs (too big of a gap) and or faulty spark plug wires or both.
-Timing chain issues usually occur if you hear a constant vibration near the top of the engine.
-Transmission issues would be having trouble putting the car in certain gears, or the transmission stick does not sit in gear properly (slippage).

Just some suggestions that may help with your problem.

Ok, let's troubleshoot that cylinder. Is this a 4 cylinder engine? If not, please tell me which engine you have. If yes, #1 is closest to the belt. Remove the spark plug and look it over. Is it clean and just a little brown? If it is dirty, clean it up.
Next push it back into the plug wire and hold it with an oven mit against the exhaust manifold. Make the threads contact the metal of the engine while someone briefly cranks and then shuts off the engine. Note, it could be loud if the engine actually starts. You can avoid that by taking the coil loose from the coil, but remember how it goes back. While the engine turns, watch for a spark at the plug. If the spark is strong and periodic, the ignition is working right and the problem is probably with a valve or injector.
If the spark is absent or not rythymic, the problem is the plug or wire. Try putting the plug into a different wire and redo the test to see whether it's the wire or the plug itself.
If the ignition system, plug and wire are all good, we need to troubleshoot the cylinder.
The first test to do is this case is a compression test. If you can borrow a compression tester from the parts store or a friend, etc. test all cylinders and write down the pressures.
If you get to this point, please get back to me. We'll get this figured out.

How did you try to obtain the codes? Did you short pins E1 and Te1 in the grey connector under the hood?

When the light comes back on, short the above pins, and get back to us.

Without seeing the codes, I would venbture a guess that you first consider a good tune-up, and use Toyota plugs only. Any other manufacturer will not work very well. I see this every day, new plugs, and the engine runs poor. Toyota plugs fixes it right up. The heat ranges are diffferent in Toyota plugs.

A multi misfire may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
Faulty spark plug or wires, Faulty coil (pack), Faulty oxygen sensor(s), Faulty fuel injector(s), Stuck/blocked EGR valve / passages, Faulty camshaft position sensor, Defective computer.

The engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wire, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the the problems were faulty fuel injectors. 

Random misfires that jump around from one cylinder to another (read: P030x codes) also will set a P0300 code. The underlying cause is often a lean fuel condition, which may be due to a vacuum leak in the intake manifold or unmetered air getting past the airflow sensor, or an EGR valve that is stuck open.

Good luck and hope this information helps, keep me posted, be glad to help you get the truck running 100% again. Not sure if your running a K&N air filter, and if you are there may be a flim of oil on the MAF sensor that is making you run lean. You may want to spray down the MAF sensor with a can of MAF cleaner. 

What you have is a bad Idle Air Control ("I.A.C.") valve. This device admist a precise amount of air to keep the engine running at idle. This is a common issue. Get a new one from a dealer, and you will be up and running fine.

The water bubble under the dash might be a heater core, and the slow and sluggish might be caused by the transmission, try checking the wires and plugs, they may need to be replaced, we just changed out the wires and plugs on ours and it did wonders!