Question about 2001 Suzuki GZ 250 Marauder

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My back sprocket is tight and still has a little slack. the sprocket and inside of the wheel can move back and forth about 1 inch is this normal?

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Not normal at all. There should be no movement at all. The rear axle should be tight in the swingarm. I am wondering if someone left out the wheel bearings. You can look at a diagram of the wheel ( and the rest of the bike ) at the website below. Please rate my answer. Thanks.
www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx

Posted on Sep 06, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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95 gpz chain tighten how to


hey Dominico,
This is the way PROFESSIONAL mechanics do a chain/sprocket check and drive chain alignment and tension.. Proper chain tension is very important to the life of your chain and sprockets and performance of your bike. First, you need to check to see if the chain/sprockets need replacing. (Chain and sprockets are ALWAYS replaced as a set (-all-3)..if you replace a chain on worn sprockets.. the chain will stretch out QUICK.. and if you put new sprockets with a worn chain.. the sprockets will be worn out QUICK too!!) ...To do this..the bike needs to be on the center stand or bike stand...NOT on the side stand...
...now...--remove the chain guard-- next..Sprocket check time - take one hand and squeeze the chain (grab the chain above and below the swingarm) at the point between the axle and the swingarm bolt.. as hard as possible. to take all the slack out of the chain and put the tension completely around the back sprocket.. while you are squeezing the chain as hard and tight as possible.. - with your other hand - try to lift/pull the chain off the rear sprocket.. IF you can pull the chain off enough to see if there is a .200" or 5mm max. gap between the chain and sprocket - under the chain... or MORE THAN A HALF a tooth groove under the chain..or the chain pulls up more than two teeth...OR the teeth on either sprocket are "pointed thin" or rounded inside....you need to replace the chain/sprockets.
...ONCE you are sure the chain/sprockets are good..its time to CORRECTLY align and adjust the chain tension. Loosen the axle nut.. DO NOT remove it.. now - tap it gently to make sure its loose...loose the chain adjuster nuts.. back them off a good bit, but do not remove them...you may,also need to loose the rear brake caliper mounts ..you should be able to move the rear wheel forward and backward with your hand.(this is to assure you have sufficient "looseness" to make the proper adjustment...NOW - pull the rear tire backwards until it stops.. - run the adjuster nut(s) until they are just snug..ALIGNMENT - This is CRITICAL - (did you remove the chain guard yet?) - do that now. You must be able to see down the entire length of the chain (above the swingarm)..The chain MUST RUN IN A STRAIGHT LINE!! .. The little marks on the swingarm are just "guides".. never use them as perfect.. the only way to assure CORRECT ALIGNMENT is a visual check of the chain to make sure its in a straight line!!!! - ...ANY bend, crook, or mis-alignment will cause premature wear and tear, and make it harder for your engine to make it turn. - Now - Rotate the wheel and find the tightest point of the chain... there is one, and its normal... LEAVE the tight point located between the two sprockets on the top of the swingarm. This is where you will "feel" for the correct tension.
The biggest thing most people miss when adjusting the tension is having the AXEL/NUT and the SWINGARM PIVOT SHAFT and the COUNTERSHAFT C/L (front sprocket shaft) IN A STRAIGHT LINE - ALL THREE ARE ON THE SAME PLANE!!!!!
. NOW, You may have to get a buddy to help pull the swing arm up.. (I use a tie down strap through the rear wheel and over the seat pulled tight enough to make AND KEEP the STRAIGHT LINE!!)
..Once you have established the straight line - --- - --- - and MADE SURE the chain is RUNNING STRAIGHT on both sprockets.. NOW _ its time to adjust the tension. There WILL be a tightest and loosest point of the chain..(normal).. you MUST adjust the tension using the TIGHTEST point of the chain....set the tension so you can move the chain up and down (total movement) about 1 3/8 inch to a max of 2 inches!! Once you have established the chain is straight and the tension is correct, its time to TIGHTEN EVERYTHING in order... start with snugging the axle nut.. then snug the adjuster nuts more..-- DOUBLE CHECK you chain alignment.. now - tighten the axle - TIGHT!!... tighten the adjuster nuts..lock down the lock nuts.. tighten the caliper.. TRIPLE CHECK the alignment... double check the tension...double check all the nuts... install the chain guard... REMOVE whatever you use the keep the straight line straight..

TRIPLE CHECK ALL NUTS!!! NOW ROTATE THE REAR WHEEL AND CHECK FOR BINDING AND MAKE SURE THE CHAIN IS WORKING CORRECTLY AND NOT TOO LOOSE..
KNOW you have done a job correctly!! (I am a factory trained mechanic, race engine builder, port work guy, race tuner.)..
GREAT JOB!!

Aug 08, 2017 | Motorcycles

2 Answers

Why does the Secondary Chain keep comming of?


Any time a chain comes off it means there's slack in it or something's not tight enough. Not looking at your bike, I would have to guess that you need to loosen the bolts on the back wheels and then pull the wheel assemblies back until the chain is tight. This is probably a two person job, one to unbolt and bolt and one to apply tension. That being said, many years ago I remember bikes my friends used had a problem where if they were riding at a good speed and then stopped peddling to coast, then slightly reversed peddling, then started fast peddling again, that they would throw a chain. I think what was happening was they were creating slack in the chain by coasting, slightly reversing their peddling, then starting again. The chains were also slightly gummed up, allowing slack at this time.

Jul 28, 2014 | Schwinn Meridian Adult 26-Inch 3-Wheel...

1 Answer

2006 dfdwg with engen off and in gear it will roll back and forth several inches when it should not move at all


No, it SHOULD move an inch or two.
This is due to the clearance between the transmission gears, the chain slack, etc.

Usually I have to rock my bikes back and forth a little so I can find the spot in between to relieve that loading on the transmission gears, so I can put it into neutral to start.

Aug 19, 2013 | 2006 Harley Davidson FXDWGI Dyna Wide...

1 Answer

How to fix my alighnment


Provided you have not been in an accident that has bent your frame,upper and lower triple tree, or forks, the only alignment you can make is to adjust your chain. If the the front wheel is not tracking with the back wheel you just have an improperly adjusted chain. On each side of the swing arm by the rear axle are two chain adjuster cam/wheels. The have numbered bump/stops. Both chain adjusters should be set in the same numbered bump/stop to align the front and rear chain sprockets and the front and rear wheel tracking. the adjusters are on the machine for the purpose of setting the amount of chain slack. Your chain should not be too tight or too loose. If you grab your chain in the middle and push it up and down, you should have a slack measurement of 1 1/4 inches from the bottom edge of the chain to the top edge of the chain. If the setting is off the best way to make the adjustment is to raise the rear wheel off of the ground. A race bike stand is very helpful for this and oiling and caring for your chain. Harbor freight tools sells a cheap rear stand for about $35 (buy the cheaper one piece non-collapseable stand). Pull out the cotter pin, loosen the axle bolt, turn both adjusters till you have the correct amount of slack and they are both set to the same number. Tighten the axle and recheck the slack. If you notice when spinning the rear wheel that the chain goes tight then slack, you have a stretched section of chain. If this is the case you should replace the chain and any worn sprockets at this time.

Aug 17, 2011 | 2005 kawasaki Ninja 250 R

1 Answer

When shutting down throttle in gear, a heavy clonk is felt through transmission! chain and sprockets good.! thankyou.


If the chain and sprockets are in good condition and adjusted properly ( 1 1/2" slack ), you should check the rear wheel sprocket dampers. These are made of rubber and can deteriorate over time. If the dampers are bad you will be able to move the rear sprocket forward and back while the bike is sitting still. It is an easy fix to replace them, just remove the rear wheel and sprocket. they are model specific parts and should be available from your local dealer.
Steve

Jan 02, 2011 | 1993 Honda CBR 1000 F

1 Answer

Drive chain slack?


Typical chain slack should be about two inches from bottom edge of the chain to the top. Grabbing the chain in the middle (halfway from sprocket to sprocket) and moving it up and down. After adjusting , you should raise the rear wheel off the ground and spin the back wheel checking every 6 inches or so that the slack does not get tighter or looser. If the chain gets tighter as it goes around the sprocket it is an indication that the chain is stretched at that point and needs to be replaced.

Nov 17, 2010 | 2004 Yamaha YZ 450 F

1 Answer

I had to take off the rear weel of my falcon apache mountain bike to get it in my car o travel from my grandparens home to mine but i cant get the back weel gear arm back on. how do i do this??


By the "gear arm" I assume you mean that part of the rear derailer that the chain zig-zags through. This arm moves in two ways. It moves in and out (toward the wheel and away) as you move the shift lever - which is how it changes gears, by moving the chain onto different sprockets (gears). It also moves forward and back (toward the front and back of the bike) under spring pressure. This forward and back motion is necessary to take up the slack in the chain when you are using the smaller sprockets (the smaller the sprocket, the "higher" the gear). When the wheel has been removed, this arm moves forward (under spring pressure) as far as it can to take up all of the slack in the chain. All you have to do is grasp this lever and pull it toward the back of the bike, allowing the lever and the chain to pass behind the sprockets (gears) as you pull the wheel back into it's position. You can safely pull this arm forward and back at any time without doing any damage. One more tip-- I find it a little easier if you first put the shift lever in a "middle" gear position. Then when you pull the wheel into place, you should aim to put the chain on a middle sprocket. You don't have to hit the exact correct sprocket as you can simply lift the rear wheel and turn the pedals forward (after installing the wheel) and the chain will move to the correct sprocket corresponding to the setting on the shift lever.
Good luck! Please vote if you found this helpful. Al K

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1 Answer

Chain tension


Usually you want about 1 -1.6 inches (35-40 mm) from the bottom of the chain to the bottom of the chain when you grab the bottom chain about halfway between the rear sprocket and the front sprocket and move up and down.You should also left the rear wheel off the ground and rotate the chain around both sprockets checking the slack at all points of the chain. If while rotating wheel the chain gets tighter or looser this is a sign that your chain has stretched in one short section and should be replaced. If left on the bike it will either wear out the sprockets a lot faster than normal rate or the chain could break possibly damaging the engine case (very expensive).

May 15, 2010 | 1999 kawasaki ZZR 600

1 Answer

How tighten a chain


well first get the bike up on a stand or set it on a milk crate. Loosen up main axle nuts you may need another wrench on the other side to back it up. loosen any small chain adjustment nuts. pull the chain as far back as it can go all the time looking a the chain sag..you want to keep about 5/8 to 1 inch play...lock just the axle nuts down snug...now spin the tire to see that all parts of the chain maintain this amount of sag. if its too tight in one area, you have a "stretched chain", and this will now be the focal point for tightening up the chain...this tighter part must have "some" slack in it...id say give it about 1/2 inch...now tighten up the chain adjustment nuts finger tight and look at your rear sprocket and make sure it lines up perfectly straight on with the counter shaft sprocket up front. Once this is aligned, tighten the smaller nuts snug, then proceed to torque down lightly maybe 10- 20 ftlbs. now spin the tire to check your slack in the chain did it move on you? Then you have to tighten or loosen the chain adjustment nuts a little more in or out till you get it right so it can move into the correct position. Once you got it right torque down on the main axle nuts 50-60ft lbs. Now tighten evenly each chain nut with the same ammount of turns to each....tighten the last nut down hard onto the first so they wont vibrate off. Now you should lube the chain..and your ready to go. after a while of hard riding recheck everything just to make sure shes secure! Can i get a very helpful on this. thanks!

Apr 19, 2010 | 2003 Suzuki RM 125

1 Answer

Injetor pump removal for 1hz diesel


Hi there Luke. The sprocket gear of the pump is sitting on a taper lock on the pump shaft, you have to use a puller to get it off the shaft. Mount the puller to the threaded holes on the sprocket and when it is tight, give it a sharp crack with a hammer, it will then pop off.
Caution!!!!! Do not hit to hard the pump shaft has a transfer pump attached inside that is quite sensitive.
Before you do drastic things like removing the pump please read the attached manual on setting the timing, special tools are needed to reset the timing.3d2b4ea.jpg

May 17, 2009 | 1992 Toyota Land Cruiser

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