Question about 2005 Suzuki Boulevard C90
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2007 Boulevard C90T - Battery
I have a 2006 C90T and had the exact same issues. I have no great solution for you other than to tell you that in my case it turned out to by the stator. This is one of the only known reliability issues with this bike. With the regulator and stator setup on the standard C90 the stator is basically 'running' all the time due to the type of regulator/rectifier. What myself and many other have done is to replcae the regulator with Cycle Electric CE602 (made for Dynaglide Harley). This type reduces the load to the stator hopefully extending the life of the stator. The CE602 is much larger than the stock one and will have to be relocated. All my power issue went away once upgrading to a better charging system. To be sure though I would get it into a shop to have them test it right.
Posted on Apr 12, 2011
to check if the charging system is charging you also need an amp meter hook that inbetween the battery lead on the pos + side of the battery and with the engine running turn on all lights if the amp meter reads - charge its not charging the batery up,,change the reg first,, thats the chepest part,,,the charge will only just be above what you need with all lights on eg 1.5 - 2 amps
Posted on Aug 14, 2010
SOURCE: After leaving the last gas
Ok, let's check the charging system. The battery is easy. Take the battery out of the bike and take it to an automotive parts store. Ask them to load test the battery for you. If the battery is over two years old, it could need replacing.
Once you're sure the battery is good and it is FULLY CHARGED, we can test the rest of the system. You'll need a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to check the system. With the battery back in the bike, connect the DVOM across the battery. Red meter lead to the positive terminal of the battery, black meter lead to the negative. Put the meter's function selector switch in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLTS or greater. Start the bike and bring it to a high idle. The meter should read 14.5 - 15.0 volts.
Now, to test the stator, follow the wires from your regulator down to where it goes into the engine cases. Disconnect the connector and look into the engine side of it. You'll see two metal contacts down in there. Set you meter's function selector to AC VOLTS, 50 VOLTS or greater. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Touch each one of the metal contacts down in the engine side of the connector with a meter probe. It makes not difference since we're measuring AC voltage at this point. The meter should read at least 30 volts.
Now, if the alternator (stator test) does not put out at least thirty volts, the stator is bad and needs to be replaced. If the alternator does check good but not enough voltage at the battery, your regulator may be the culprit. Make sure all connections are clean and tight and that the body of the regulator is grounded good. Recheck the test at the battery. If it still fails, replace the regulator.
Now, I've seen may problems such as your's that are intermittant. In other words, the problem is here on minute and gone the next. I fought that on one bike for over a year until we finally replaced the entire charging system and fixed it. If your bike proves to be doing that, you may wish to consider that option. Fix the thing and be done with it. I wouldn't buy the rotor, just the stator and the regulator.
Posted on Aug 31, 2010
Testimonial: "right on with the test procedure. Battery didn't show it was charging. While the stator test showed 30vac, an ohm test showed it was grounded. Thanks "
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