Question about Yamaha Motorcycles
Hi, Tmrr_deb before testing any electrical component in the Starting System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
4. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
5. FOB battery low or dead.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
9. Security alarm needs a reset.
10. Starter relay, solenoid, starter have failed or circuit wiring faulty.
11. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
12. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
13. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
14. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Yamaha XC125 Service Manual
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YAMAHA CYGNUS XC125 Owner Manual
Posted on Jun 02, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
gear selector may be jammed inside the casing or broken
check that the shifter is tight on the shaft!
check clutch adjustment
try rocking bike back n forth without using clutch while you try ******* the gear lever it may come unstuck
but get it looked at if it frees up!
Posted on Jul 20, 2009
i have well, had a very similar problem, my headlight kept going on my 1990 dt125r from 1990 to 2003 the engine is the same so i feel it may be the same fix, the regulator/rectifier stopped working properly and was alowying to much power to get to the headlight and blew it, i got a new regulator/rectifier for around £30 ish, you could tell when it went caus the higher you reved it the brighter the light got until it blew not like when it gets brighter from tickover, it was just proggesive and just kept getting brighter the more you revved it, hope this helps
Posted on Aug 06, 2009
hi buddy on carb will be a screw turn this in 1/4 of a turn with the machine running until it idles the idle screw below
Posted on Sep 20, 2009
Just replace it with a nut and bolt that is smaller then the hole,
this way you can put the bolt through the holder and tighten down the bolt which will hold the connector onto the post.
You can clean the terminals with baking soda and water, then cover
with petroleum jelly to keep them corrosion free.
There is actually a compound for this but the jelly is almost as good.
Posted on Feb 10, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks! That worked perfect, only took 5 minutes and works great! I appreciate it!"
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