Question about Harley Davidson FLTR-FLTRI Road Glide Motorcycles

1 Answer

2003 HD Roadglide, stock TC88 engine. HD just replaced the cam chain tensioners with new HD camplate and high flow oil pump. first 2 miles had highpitched noise, metal on metal sound then was quiet. now after 1300 miles the noise is always there, louder when engine is cold. Most prevalent at 2500 rpm's in 2nd gear. Is this normal, HD says no problem.

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  • Harley Davidson Master
  • 40,816 Answers

Hi Roadglidetas, no it is not normal, HD is incorrect, your new oil pump and or cam plate could have been defective from the factory.
I would take it back to the dealer and insist politely they fix the noise. If they start dancing around the issue and say it's something unrelated to your upgrade and will cost you big bucks contact Harley Davidson Motor Company directly and express your concerns. I was a technician for 35 years and used to work for the Motor Company it isn't right. Good luck

Posted on May 24, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

polarcycle
  • 1392 Answers

SOURCE: engine noise

Could be chain slack until it warms up. Check your tensioner, and possibly needs valve adjustment if it hasn't been done. On a worse note, could be oil pump taking time to get oil to the top end.

Posted on Mar 08, 2009

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: engine rattle when bike is under load

This sounds like a classic case of pre-ignition, aka detonation and engine knock. Change to premium gas and put in a set of spark plugs that are one heat range colder than stock. It is good that you are handling this before the engine destroys itself. Yes, destroys itself. That is what pre-ignition will do. Hot carbon deposits ignite the fuel before the spark plug does. This is hard on the rod, main bearings and piston. Beat on the top of a piston with a hammer. That is what your piston will quickly look like with pre-ignition.

Please rate this answer. Thanks

Posted on Apr 23, 2009

  • 8404 Answers

SOURCE: Honda CB Seven Fifty 1992. Sudden engine noise

I am not familiar with every engine Honda builds, I don't know what a alternator chain is. Normally the cam chain is quiet. You say it runs so it can't be too out of adjustment. If you wish to keep this bike in mint condition, I suggest you have this fixed by a Honda Pro before the condition worsens.

Posted on Jan 26, 2010

  • 4088 Answers

SOURCE: 2008 Z750 bad grinding noise in first gear

It is possible that the first gear shift fork in the transmission is bent causing the 'dog-clutch' between two gears to just barely mesh. With engine off, push the shift into first and clutch lever released. Rock the bike back and forth to see if the gearing seems to be jumping in and out. There may be a problem with the shift lever shaft mechanism not allowing a complete shift into first gear. Hope this helps!

Posted on Apr 11, 2010

heimlich
  • 1978 Answers

SOURCE: vt500 c ticking sound. Cam chain tensioners

You have a self adjusting cam chain tensioner. It is sold as an assembly. Take out the complete unit and replace it with a new one. The springs are not bad , the device that keeps the pressure on the tensioner is slipping causing a ticking sound.

Posted on May 16, 2010

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2003 Harley Davidson FLHT Electra Glide Standard no oil pressure


Hi, Paul "OUCH" I feel your pain I too own a 2003 FLHTCUI Anniversary Edition I only have 25,000 miles on it but upgraded a long time ago to the S&S 510 gear drive kit eliminating the cam chain and shoes, it's a bit pricey $600. That design was not one of Harley's greatest hits and they refuse to change it. They did, however, reduce the inevitable shoe failure by eliminating the left spring actuated shoe and replacing the right one with a hydraulic version, but it's still a shoe with its own set of new issues like premature chain stretching according to fellow Harley Techs that I chew the fat with. My gut tells me that:
1. You still have oil pump issues.
2. Somewhere in the cam plate or oil passage in the engine case is a left over piece of shoe that is in between the pump, the connecting rods or lifters blocking adequate flow to the top end.
3. On the bright side, that same piece of the shoe could be in the passage way that goes to the oil pressure sending unit or gauge.
If it were me I would go back into the pump and double check the integrity of all seals and o-rings check the lobe clearance of the pump gears .004" max, check the bright side #3 and every night before you turn in drop to your knees and thank the Harley Gods for keeping your engine in one piece.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
NO OIL Pressure HELP
Harley Davidson 2003 Dyna Service Manual Same Engine
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Jul 23, 2017 | 2003 Harley Davidson FLHT Electra Glide...

1 Answer

3.5 timing chain noise one sec on cold start


Oil pressure pushes the tensioner foot up against the chain. When the rubber face wears down it will come to the end of it's travel and then stop. High mile engines don't produce a lot of pressure on a cold start, so look at the pressure regulator in the oil pump and replace the timing chain tensioner.

Sep 07, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2004 passat engine sounds like a deisel all of a sudden and has some engine lag


Hi, depending on engine fitted it is most likely the cam chain tensioner has collaped or failed. On a twin cam engine like a 1.8 t or a 32 valve V6 there is a chain driving a second chain in the rear of the cylinder head. These chains are tensioned by a oil pressure pressurized piston pushing on a bridge under the chain.

If it collapses, the chain/s become very loose and you will hear a loud clacking noise. It can also collapse due to low oil pressure.

VW is familiar with this problem and the repair involves first checking oil pressure, cold thro' warm. If it is around 85 to105 psi cold and 28 to 35 psi warm at idle, then this indicates tensioner piston is faulty or tensioner guide has broken off.

If oil presssure is good and engine is running synthetic oil...as it should ...then tensioneris suspect. I have also seen these engines with the screen under the tensioner partly blocked . If on removal of valve cover prooves tensioner has collapsed or guide shoe broken or warn then a new tensioner must be installed.

If oil pressure is too low at under 12 psi at warm idle then oil pump is worn and/or engine is worn. Also low oil pressure can be caused by fuel in the oil making it very thin.

If the screen under the tensioner is partly plugged up, then the oil pan must also be removed and cleaned out otherwise plugging will happen again.

To remove and install the tensioner a SST ( Special Service Tool.) is required to compresse the tensioner piston to allow it to be removed from under the cam chain and again compressing the new tensioner to be installed. Cams or chain do not need removing on this job.

Most import shops can handle this as long as they are equipped with the SST tensioner tool.

Nov 01, 2013 | 2003 Volkswagen Passat

2 Answers

Need timing gear marks for 2004 Kia Sadona 3.5L engine



Removal & Installation

3.5L Engine

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
  2. Record the radio anti theft code data.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Negative battery cable Engine cover Accessory drive belts Idler pulley Crankshaft pulley Power steering pump pulley Belt tensioner pulley Upper and lower timing belt covers
  4. Support the engine with a floor jack and remove the engine mount.
  5. Rotate the engine to align the camshaft sprocket timing marks with the cylinder head cover timing marks.

    0996b43f8022cb71.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Timing belt routing and timing marks-3.5L Engine

  6. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Auto tensioner Timing belt

    0996b43f8022cb72.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Timing belt and related components-3.5L Engine


To install:
  1. Ensure that the engine is set to Top Dead Center (TDC).
  2. Prepare the auto tensioner for installation by compressing it in a vise and installing a retaining pin.
  3. Install the timing belt in the following order:
    1. Crankshaft sprocket
    2. Idler pulley
    3. Left bank exhaust camshaft sprocket
    4. Left bank intake camshaft sprocket
    5. Water pump pulley
    6. Right bank intake camshaft sprocket
    7. Right bank exhaust camshaft sprocket
    8. Tensioner pulley

  4. Install the auto tensioner. Do not remove the retaining pin at this time.
  5. Check that the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks are aligned correctly.
  6. Rotate the crankshaft 1 / 4 turn Counterclockwise .
  7. Rotate the crankshaft 1 / 4 turn Clockwise to return the engine to TDC.
  8. Loosen the tensioner pulley center bolt.
  9. Apply 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm) torque to the tensioner pulley as shown and tighten the center bolt to 32-41 ft. lbs. (43-55 Nm).

    0996b43f8022cb73.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Adjusting the tensioner pulley-3.5L Engine

  10. Remove the auto tensioner retaining pin.
  11. Rotate the crankshaft 2 revolutions Clockwise , then wait 5 minutes for the auto tensioner to adjust.
  12. Measure the auto tensioner rod as shown. If the measurement is not 3.8-4.5 mm, then repeat the belt tensioning procedure.

    0996b43f8022cb74.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Measuring the auto tensioner rod-3.5L Engine

  13. When the auto tensioner measurement is correct, install or connect the following:

    Engine mount Upper and lower timing belt covers Belt tensioner pulley Power steering pump pulley Crankshaft pulley Idler pulley Accessory drive belts Engine cover Negative battery cable
  14. Reprogram the radio anti theft codes.

    Kia_Sedona_2002-2006
    Timing Chain, Sprockets, Front Cover & Seal

    Print


    Removal & Installation

    3.8L Engine

    1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
    2. Record the radio anti theft code data.
    3. Remove the engine from the vehicle.
    4. Remove the drive belt. Remove the power steering pump. Remove the air conditioning compressor.
    5. Remove the alternator. Remove the drive belt idler. Remove the drive belt tensioner. Remove the water pump pulley. Remove the intake manifold.
    6. Remove the connector bracket from the left cylinder head cover. Disconnect the right ignition coil connector, condenser connector and remove the bracket.
    7. Remove the left cylinder head cover retaining bolts. Remove the cylinder head cover from the engine.
    8. Remove the right cylinder head cover retaining bolts. Remove the cylinder head cover from the engine.
    9. Set the No. 1 cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke. Turn the crankshaft pulley and align its groove with the timing mark T of the lower timing chain cover.
    10. Check that the mark of the camshaft timing sprockets are in straight line positioning on the cylinder head surface. If not rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees. Do not rotate the engine counterclockwise.
    11. Remove the oil pan. Remove the crankshaft damper pulley. Remove the timing chain cover.
      NOTE Be careful not to damage the contact surfaces of the cylinder block, cylinder head and timing chain cover. Before removing the timing chain, mark the right and left timing chains with an identification mark based on the location of the sprocket because the identification mark on the chain for TDC can be erased.
    12. After compressing the timing chain tensioner, install a set pin. Remove the right cam to cam guide. Remove the right timing chain auto tensioner and timing chain tensioner arm.
    13. Remove the oil pump chain cover. Remove the oil pump chain tensioner assembly. Remove the oil pump chain guide. Remove the right timing chain.
    14. Remove the right timing chain guide. Remove the oil pump chain sprocket and oil pump chain. Remove the crankshaft sprocket, oil pump and camshaft drive gear.
    15. Remove the left cam to cam guide. Remove the left timing chain auto tensioner and timing chain tensioner arm. Remove the left timing chain.
    16. Remove the left timing chain guide. Remove the crankshaft sprocket and left camshaft drive. Remove the tensioner adapter assembly.

      0996b43f8020193b.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

      Fig. Timing chain and related components-3.8L Engine


    To install:
    1. Check the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets for wear and damage, replace as required.
    2. Inspect the tensioner arm and chain guide for wear and damage, replace as required.
    3. Check that the tensioner pin moves smoothly when the ratchet pawl is released with a thin rod.
    4. The key of the crankshaft should be aligned with the timing mark of the timing chain cover. This indicates that the piston is at TDC on the compression stroke.
    5. Install the tensioner adapter assembly. Install the crankshaft sprocket and left camshaft drive.
    6. Install the left timing chain guide and torque the retaining bolts 14-18 ft. lbs.
    7. Install the left timing chain. Be sure to install the chain with no slack between the camshaft and the crankshaft (crankshaft sprocket, timing chain guide, exhaust camshaft sprocket, intake camshaft sprocket). The timing mark of each sprocket should be matched with the timing mark (color ink) of the timing chain at installation of the timing chain.

      0996b43f80201924.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

      Fig. Left timing chain markings and installation: (D) exhaust camshaft sprocket (C) intake camshaft sprocket-3.8L Engine

    8. Install the left timing chain tensioner arm and torque the retaining bolts 14-16 ft. lbs.
    9. Install the left timing chain tensioner and torque the retaining bolts 7-9 ft. lbs.
    10. Install the left cam to cam guide and torque the retaining bolts 7-9 ft. lbs.
    11. Install the crankshaft sprocket, oil pump and right camshaft drive.
    12. Install the oil pump chain and oil pump sprocket. Torque the retaining bolt to 14-16 ft. lbs.
    13. Install the right timing chain guide. Torque the retaining bolts to 14-18 ft. lbs.
    14. Install the right timing chain. Be sure to install the chain with no slack between the camshaft and the crankshaft (crankshaft sprocket, intake camshaft sprocket, exhaust camshaft sprocket). The timing mark of each sprocket should be matched with the timing mark (color ink) of the timing chain at installation of the timing chain.

      0996b43f80201925.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

      Fig. Right timing chain markings and installation: (C) exhaust camshaft sprocket (B) intake camshaft sprocket-3.8L Engine

    15. Install the right timing chain tensioner arm. Torque the retaining bolts to 14-17 ft. lbs.
    16. Install the right timing chain auto tensioner. Torque the retaining bolts to 7-9 ft. lbs.
    17. Install the right cam to cam guide and torque the retaining bolts to 7-9 ft. lbs.
    18. Install the oil pump chain guide. Torque the retaining bolts to 7-9 ft. lbs.
    19. Install the oil pump tensioner assembly. Torque the retaining bolts to 7-9 ft. lbs.
    20. Pull out the pins on both the left and right hydraulic tensioners. Install the oil pump chain cover.
    21. Rotate the crankshaft two revolutions in the clockwise direction. Confirm the timing mark. Be sure to rotate the crankshaft in the clockwise direction.
    22. Apply sealant on the chain cover and on the cylinder head, cylinder block, and lower oil pan. Be sure these parts are free of engine oil and dirt.
      NOTE Before assembling the timing chain cover, the liquid sealant TB1217H should be applied on the gap between the cylinder head and block. The part must be assembled with five minutes after the sealant is applied.


      0996b43f80201926.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

      Fig. Sealant application (1 inch bead width)-3.8L Engine

    23. Apply sealant on the chain cover.
      NOTE The liquid sealant TB1217H should be applied on the gap between the cylinder head and block. The part must be assembled with five minutes after the sealant is applied.


      0996b43f80201927.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

      Fig. Timing cover sealant application-3.8L Engine

    24. Install a new gasket to the timing case cover.
      NOTE It is important that the dowel pins on the cylinder block and holes on the timing chain cover should be used as a reference in order to assemble the timing chain cover in the correct position.


      0996b43f80201928.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

      Fig. Timing cover gasket installation (A) gaskets-3.8L Engine

    25. Install the timing chain cover. Torque the retaining bolts in the proper sequence and to specification. The engine should not be started for at least thirty minutes after timing chain cover assembly.

      0996b43f80201929.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

      Fig. Timing cover bolt torque sequence and specification-3.8L Engine

    26. Install the timing case cover oil seal.
    27. Continue the installation in the reverse order of the removal procedure.

May 19, 2012 | 2004 Kia Sedona

1 Answer

I'm thinking about doing a cam swap on my '02 Ultra. Right now it's bone stock except for a K&N air filter. What's your opinion???


If you upgraded the air cleaner, you should have the carb rejetted. A Stage One upgrade also includes freer flowing exhaust, and a updated ignition, if required.

The early 88's have issues with the cam chain tensioners. They can deterioriate prematurly. Check the condition of these around 20k miles

One alternative to the tensioner problem is to update the Cam Support Plate to a HD Screaming Eagle support oplate w/ Hydraulic tensioners.

Another alternative is to look at an updated cam with a gear drive system. Andrews seems to be very popular.

To answer your question...What are you looking to gain from your cam update? HP? Torque? Both can be added with good results with a cam update. This is considered part of Stage 2 upgrades.

Here's a great explanation of the stage upgrades:
http://www.harley-davidsonforums.com/forums/engine/19351-stage-2-upgrade.html

Hope this helps.

Jan 24, 2011 | 2002 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

There is a ticking noise that won't quit. I've heard valve problems to timing chains. Plus that there are 6 timing chains on my vehicle. I have a 2003 ford explorer 4.0 sohc. someone please tell me how...


3 chains ONLY (1 chain from the crank to idler sprocket/ 2 from idler sprocket to cams). This ticking noise are usually associated with poor oil flow through the upper part of the engine or sticking lifters. If this vehicle has over 80k miles, have the oil pan and oil pick-screen cleaned!! If the problems not severe yet, it will go away!!

Sep 27, 2010 | 2003 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

No oil pressure for my 2005 Harley-Davidson Ultra Classic Electra Glide


camplate check valve sticking,good time for an upgrade SEcamplate,hydraulic camchain tensioners,high volume oil pump,comes as complete kit for about $420. add another $150 for adjustable pushrods and never worry about it again,or replace the existing component youd save maybe $180 bucks but youll be back
thats why they changed the camplate and tensioners in 07, I just did the complete conversion on an 02 heritage it costed with labor about 1100 in your case your looking at 7 to 800 dollars just to get you going for another 30 or 40,000 miles or less and then do it again Im for a 1 time fix myself

Apr 17, 2010 | 2005 Harley Davidson FLHTC - FLHTCI...

2 Answers

2001 H-D Road King engine knock


For valve train noise try these:
1. Low oil pressure caused by oil feed pump not functioning
properly or oil passages obstructed.
2. Faulty hydraulic lifter(s).
3. Bent push rod(s).
4. Incorrect push rod length.
5. Rocker arm binding on shaft.
6. Valve sticking in guide.
7. Chain tensioning spring or shoe worn.
8. Cam(s), cam gear(s) or cam bushing(s) worn.
9. Cam timing incorrect.

If it is a bottom end knock, an engine tear down may be in order.

May 30, 2009 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLHR-FLHRI Road king

3 Answers

Noise in Engine


Try these for valve train noise:

1. Low oil pressure caused by oil feed pump not functioning
properly or oil passages obstructed.
2. Faulty hydraulic lifter(s).
3. Bent push rod(s).
4. Incorrect push rod length.
5. Rocker arm binding on shaft.
6. Valve sticking in guide.
7. Chain tensioning spring or shoe worn.
8. Cam(s), cam gear(s) or cam bushing(s) worn.
9. Cam timing incorrect.

May 30, 2009 | 2001 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

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