Question about 2000 Yamaha V Star Classic

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Will removing the AIS system from my bike cause any damage to the engine?

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  • Yamaha Master
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Hi, Shawncunning for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
https://sites.google.com/site/vstar1100kb/home/5-modifications/1-ai
REmoving AIS
http://www.sloneservices.com/SilverBack/Other-Stuff/V-StarShopManual99-07.pdf
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://www.starmotorcycles.com/assets/service/manuals/2003/LIT-11626-16-05_22.pdf

Posted on Jun 13, 2016

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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2005 Dakota will not stay running


Here are some tests you can try. The list is generic and you may have tried some of these already. It sounds like a vacuum line issue to me. For other info try this website:

Repair Guides Symptom Diagnosis no Codes What To Do When There Are No...

Preliminary Checks
Prior to starting this symptom test routine, inspect these underhood items:
  1. All related vacuum lines for proper routing and integrity.
  2. All related electrical connectors and wiring harnesses for faults (Wiggle Test).
  3. Check the throttle linkage for a sticking or binding condition.
  4. Air Intake system for restrictions (air inlet tubes, dirty air filter, etc.).
  5. Search for any technical service bulletins related to this symptom.
  6. Turn the key to off. Unplug the MAP sensor connection and restart the engine to recheck for the idle concern. If the condition is gone, replace the MAP sensor.

Test 2: Rough, Low or High Idle Speed Condition (Continued)
Test 2 Chart
Step Action Yes No 1 Step Description: Verify the rough idle or stall Does the engine have a warm engine rough idle, low idle or high idle condition in P or N- Go to Step 2. Fault is intermittent. Return to the Symptom List and select another fault. 2 Step Description: Verify idle speed & timing Verify the base timing is within specifications Verify that the base idle speed is set properly Are the timing and idle speed set properly- Go to Step 3. Set the base idle speed and timing to the specifications and then retest for the symptom. 3 Step Description: Check AIS / IAC Operation Check the AIS or IAC motor operation Inspect the AIS/IAC housing in throttle body for restricted passages. Clean as needed. Set the parking brake, block the drive wheels and turn the A/C off. Install the Scan Tool. IAC Motor Tester - Turn the key off and then connect the IAC tester to the IAC valve. Start the engine and use the IAC tester to extend and retract the IAC valve. ATM Test - Start the engine. Use the tool to change the speed from min-idle to 1500 rpm. Did the idle speed change as commanded- Install an Aftermarket Noid light and check the operation of the PCM and AIS or IAC motor circuits. Check the motor for signs of open or shorted circuits. Replace the IAC motor or PCM as needed or make repairs to the IAC motor wiring. If all are okay, go to Step 4. If the AIS/IAC motor passages are clean and engine speed did not change as described when the AIS/IAC motor was extended and retracted, replace the AIS/IAC motor. Then retest for the condition. 4 Step Description: Check/compare PID values Connect Scan Tool & turn off all accessories. Start the engine and allow it to fully warmup. Monitor all related PIDs on the Scan Tool. Verify the P/N switch input in gear and Park. Check the O2S operation with a Lab Scope. Are all PIDs within normal range- Go to Step 5. Note: An IAC motor count of over 80 indicates the pintle is extended and an IAC count of (0) indicates the pintle is retracted. One or more of the PIDs are out of range when compared to "known good" values. Make repairs to the system that is out of range, then retest for the symptom. 5 Step Description: Check the Ignition System Inspect the coils for signs of spark leakage at coil towers or primary connections. Check the spark output with a spark tester. Test Ignition system with an engine analyzer. Were any faults found in the Ignition system- Make repairs as needed Go to Step 6. 6 Step Description: Check the Fuel System Inspect the Fuel delivery system for leaks. Test the fuel pressure, quality and volume. Test the operation of the pressure regulator. Were any faults found in the Fuel system- Make repairs as needed Go to Step 7. 7 Step Description: Check the Exhaust System Check Exhaust system for leaks or damage. Check the Exhaust system for a restriction using the Vacuum or Pressure Gauge Test (e.g., exhaust backpressure reading should not exceed 1.5 psi at cruise speeds). Were any faults found in Exhaust System- Make repairs to the Exhaust system. Then retest the symptom. Go to Step 8. Repair Guides Symptom Diagnosis no Codes What To Do When There Are No...

Mar 20, 2014 | 2005 Dodge Dakota Quad

1 Answer

Coolant leak


you have over filled it and there is air in the coolant system ..run bike with therostat cap off ensure all air ais gone top up ..should be sorted

Apr 09, 2013 | 2004 Honda CBR 125 R

1 Answer

I have a Mitsubishi eclipse 95 and the check engine light codes are 12, 25,41, and 55. So what's wrong with my car??? I can't find what these codes mean


Hi there:

Code 12 - Battery or power line recently disconnected - This code is normal if the electrical system has been worked on or the battery has recently been disconnected. It will be removed after 15 ignition switch on/off cycles.


Code 25 - AIS (Automatic Idle Speed) motor circuit shorted or target idle speed not reached


Possible Causes:
- Vaccum leak - Check all vaccum lines for cracks or breaks.
- Bad connection or wiring - Check the wiring and connections between the logic module and the motor. Clean and regrease any corroded connectors with dielectric grease and repair any shorts.
- Shorted or frozen AIS motor - The AIS motor is located near the TPS. For 1987 or earlier Turbo I engines, remove the bolt and slide the motor out (you may have to wiggle and twist it). Remove the clamp and carefully pull out the motor. Be sure and observe how it goes together, especially the orienation of the rotatiing valve inside. Hook the motor to a 12V supply to see if it runs. If it doesn't, replace the AIS. Clean all the gears and shafts throughly and reassemble the gear and valve assembly. Spray all the gears and parts with TriFlo or a similar silicone spray lubricant (don't use WD40 because it evaporates) and insert the motor. If the engine seems to race wildly after assembly (give it some time to get control), you probably installed the internal, rotating valve backwards.


Code 41 - Alternator field control circuit open or shorted

Possible Causes:
- Bad connection or wiring - Check the wiring and connections between the logic module and the power module. Clean and regrease any corroded connectors with dielectric grease and repair any shorts.
- Bad voltage regulator circuit


Code 55 - End of message
No further fault codes are stored. If this is the only code received, then there are no codes stored in memory. This code will always be given, even if nothing is wrong. If you do not get this code, then you may not be retreiving the codes properly, or the power loss light may be burnt out. The light should come on for 1 second when the ignition is initally turned on as a bulb test.




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Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

Oct 31, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Check Engine Code - p0198


P0198 - Engine Oil Temperature Sensor High (excessive oil temperature sensed)
Possible causes - Engine not at operating temperature.
- Cooling system problem of stuck thermostat.
- EOT circuit failure.
- Faulty Engine Oil Temperature (EOT) sensor
- Damaged PCM. (computer)

Jan 15, 2012 | 2005 Buick Terraza

1 Answer

1993 Goldwing SE: When putting on the signal lights, the glow is deem and when the lights are flashing, the engine loses RPM during each flash, when putting on the hazzard lights, that procedure blew a...


You seem to have a dead short in the flasher system. Have you removed any panels or covers on the bike you could have pinched the wires on when you replaced them.. Have you had an accident that would cause unseen damage to the wire harness. Have you added any items to the electrical system on the bike that could be wired wrong? Is it possible that during winter storage a mouse or rodent could have chewed on some of the wiring? Does it flash correctly on the left turn signal or the right turn signal? The side with the short would cause the bad flash and engine draw. And that would be the side of the system to check, Also if you removed the seat and pinched any wires when reinstalling.

Jun 03, 2011 | 1990 Honda GL 1500 SE Gold Wing

1 Answer

Remove smog and plug head


There is a kit available thru ebay or your local motorcycle parts store/dealer (via Tucker Rocky or Parts Unltd). It's an aftermarket kit. it has all the instructions with it to remove the AIS and plug the head.
BUT BEWARE!! You can break the pipe/plug port if you do the procedure incorrectly! If you have to use any more force than light tapping on the plug driver, STOP, remove the plug and correct the problem (which is normally metal build-up on the plug for insert the plug crooked). If you try to force the plug in, you will surely cause damage to the port.
Good Luck.

Feb 05, 2011 | 2004 Yamaha V Star Classic

2 Answers

Hi,i have an yamaha rd350 wid all d new parts the bike was running okay in the start but after a while it started giving me problems excessive heating is d main issue..so could u please help in why m i...


overheating may be caused by the radiator being blocked somewhere.Is there enough water in the system?.You may need to remove the barrel for this problem in the end as the gasket may be affected.

Nov 01, 2009 | Yamaha RD 350 Motorcycles

1 Answer

Dj683 i installed bub pipes on my 2000 yamaha


I too had this popping back fire on my 2004 Yamaha 1100 custom.
Seems the AIS system is causing this.

This site has an excellent PDF file and instructions.
http://www.sloneservices.com/SilverBack/Other-Stuff/AIS%20Removal.pdf
There is also a simple way to block of the AIS without stripping it off the bike. Reversible too!
(Usually my first choice to see if the desired results are achieved.)

Good luck!
Loved my BUB pipes too!

Jul 12, 2009 | 2006 Yamaha V Star 1100 Custom

3 Answers

No clutch


Yes this is evident in replacing engine oil to motorcycle engine.

Engine oil designed for automobiles isnt good for motorbikes as they offer additives for added "slipping". THis will cause your clutch to slip. Automobile Engine's oil system is separate from the clutch while motorcycle's clutch and engine fall under one oil system.

Use engine oil designed for motorcycles.
Solution: Buy and Engine flush, pour it to your crankshaft, run the engine for 5 minutes (idle) then drain. Replace with new motorcycle oil.
-levibit-

Jun 21, 2009 | 1982 Yamaha XJ 650

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