Question about Yamaha G5 Motorcycles
Hi Joshuabobbie, and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded as a result of over use of enrichner.
5. Vacuum hose to fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
6. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
7. Discharged battery, loose, corroded or broken battery terminal connections especially the "NEGATIVE" cable inside the harness at both ends.
8. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and module.
9. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
10. Ignition timing incorrect due to faulty ignition coil, ignition module or sensors (MAP, CMP CKP and/or BAS).
11. Sticky or damaged valve or pushrod wrong length.
12. Primary cam sprocket spline sheared or missing spacer.
13. Security alarm needs a reset.
For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Yamaha ATV Service Repair Workshop Manuals
Posted on Oct 03, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
right side of machine, remove the cover below the battery box, you will have to remove or loosen front exhaust. the regulator is a finned black box held in with two 10mm hex bolts. remove regulator and disconnect the connector. the three white wires are the a/c input to the regulator. start the engine and at high idle, there should be 42 volts between each of the wires, make sure you test all of the wires and there is no missing voltage between a pair which would indicate that one phase is not working. if all is well, ohm black wire to ground on engine to make sure the ground path is good or the regulator will not work. reconnect the regulator, hook volt meter across the battery and notice reading, then start the engine and run up the rpm, you should see a voltage rise. if it does not, the regulator has open diodes. as a note, if you do not get an a/c reading at the regulator side, remove cover under tool box and check the alternator by doing the same wire pairs as mentioned before at the connector side going into the engine. if you have a/c there, check wiring from other connector side to regulator. if you have no a/c then you have a bad stator. yamaha uses a 3 phase permanent magnet alternator and the coil resistance should be around an ohm. this reading is relative unless you have a good meter as resistance of the leads and how well of a connection you made will affect the reading.
Posted on Apr 07, 2009
your voltage/reg. can be tested in a couple different ways check ground res. check res. then revs. bias on diodes you have ac in dc out it sounds like you may have a diode gone bad allowing ac curent to flow causing the wires to get hot
Posted on Jul 31, 2009
Check the carbs if all jets are well placed, needles all at same height, float levels equal, collars between carbs and cil head all tight, rubbers not punctured or broken...
Posted on Aug 22, 2009
If you're going through regulators that often I would suggest going after the stator. Make sure it's not grounding out on the chassis. Find the 3 yellow or white wires that are connected to the regulator. using a meter in OHMS ( looks like the horseshoe ) with the bike off check wire one (red ) to wire 2 ( black ) then wire one ( red ) to 3 (black ), then 2 (red ) to 1 ( black ) and 2 ( red ) to 3 ( black ) , then pick one ( red ) and black to the chassis, motor, ground. somewhere metal on the bike. The first series of tests you should get some sort of numbers, ( which should be somewhat close in numbers ) When you go to ground, Chassis you should get no numbers, OFL, OL, or the horseshoe sign if you get numbers there, the stator is bad and your transmitting ac voltage to the chassis.
Posted on Aug 27, 2009
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