Question about 2000 Aprilia RSV Mille R

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My clutch fluid ran out and clutch became spongy,attempted to top up but still same! any help appreciated.

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If you started to feel like the clutch was not separating properly and then you could not change gear at all; I had the same problem on my 2000 RSV R. It is a common problem with the clutch slave cylinder seals going due to engine temerature. Only solution is to get yourself another one. Check out the aftermarket ones you can get as these can make the clutch action easier around town.

Posted on Jan 30, 2011

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Brakes very spongy after clutch have been changed


Since the reservoir is the same for both clutch and brakes, definitely it can be air in the lines. Have your brakes and clutch bleed for air or you can do it. Get yourself some fluid, transparent tubing, a clear glass jar and tools to blled both systems. Find yoursef a tutorial video online to understand better, but here is how it is done: Start from the most further away wheel. Get under the car and search for the brake bleeding nipple and connect one end of your tubing. Then place the other end inside the jar, to the bottom..
Open the nipple with the appropiate wrench and have someone pump the brake pedal four or five times and check for bubles in the line and jar.
Add fluid to the car container every four or five times. Do this unitl no more bubbles are seen inside the fubbing, and close the nipple.
Proceed to the next further away wheel and do the same. Keep going unitl all four wheels are completed, Then bleed the clutches slave cylinder at last in the same way. Always keep the fluid container filled with fluid, so no air can enter tue lines.
Good luck-

Nov 13, 2013 | 2006 Hyundai Sonata

1 Answer

Pt cruiser clutch diagram


I recommend bleeding the clutch using instructions pasted from autozone.com below. As for the engine light, please get the computer scanned and send us the diagnostic trouble code.
Hydraulic System Bleeding NOTE
It is necessary to bleed the clutch hydraulic release system if the system has lost an excessive amount of fluid and has allowed air into the circuit. Air in the system typically results in a spongy pedal feel, and/or improper clutch release. If air cannot be removed from the system using this procedure, it is necessary to replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.

Except Turbocharged Models
  1. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system. Perform the following procedure:
  2. Verify fluid level in clutch master cylinder reservoir. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch slave cylinder assembly from the transaxle case, but do not disconnect from the system. Allow the slave cylinder hang, making it the lowest part of the system.
    CAUTION
    While slave cylinder is detached from the transaxle, DO NOT actuate the clutch master cylinder. Damage to the slave cylinder will result.
  5. Depress slave cylinder pushrod until it bottoms and then release. Repeat this at least ten times, forcing trapped air upwards and out of the system.
  6. Re-install slave cylinder into position. Torque slave cylinder to case bolt to 168 inch lbs. (19 Nm).
  7. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  8. Check and adjust clutch master cylinder fluid level. Actuate clutch pedal thirty (30) times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, air is still trapped within the system. Repeat Step 3 through Step 7 until air is purged. If several attempts at purging air from the system are unsuccessful, replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.
  9. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  10. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  11. Top off clutch master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
Turbocharged Models

NOTE
Due to the angle and design of the turbo hydraulic system components, gravity and pedal bleeding are less effective and less efficient than the reverse fluid injection method (reverse bleeding). Reverse bleeding is recommended for this system, and requires the use of commercially available injection bleeding equipment.

Alternate Procedure (Pedal Bleeding)
  1. Remove reservoir cap and inspect fluid level. Top off with DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times. Verify release system function. Repeat. If release system is still inoperative, continue with procedure.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove clutch bellhousing access cap to expose system bleed screw.
    WARNING
    Use care not to allow fluid to drain into clutch bellhousing. Excessive fluid will be agitated and sprayed around inside the clutch bellhousing by the rotating flywheel, contaminating the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate, resulting in poor clutch engagement.
  4. Using suitable socket/wrench, loosen bleed screw. Immediately install rubber hose to bleed screw to prevent fluid from entering clutch bellhousing. Tighten bleed screw gently with suitable wrench.
  5. Lower vehicle.
  6. Have helper actuate clutch pedal to floor.
  7. Place collection container at end of hose to capture expelled fluid.
  8. Using suitable wrench, break bleeder screw loose and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  9. Have helper release pedal, returning it to at-rest position, and then actuate pedal to floor.
  10. Break bleeder screw loose and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  11. Repeat procedure as necessary, keeping master cylinder reservoir full during the process, until air bubbles are no longer visible in collection container.
  12. When air bubbles are no longer visible, actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times.
  13. Verify release system function and top off fluid as necessary.
Recommended Procedure (Reverse Bleeding)
  1. Remove reservoir cap and inspect fluid level. Top off with DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times. Verify release system function. Repeat. If release system is still inoperative, continue with procedure.
  2. Remove reservoir from bracket and empty into collection container.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch bellhousing access cap to expose system bleed screw.
    CAUTION
    Use care not to allow fluid to drain into clutch bellhousing. Excessive fluid will be agitated and sprayed around inside the clutch bellhousing by the rotating flywheel, contaminating the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate, resulting in poor clutch engagement.
  5. Using suitable socket/wrench, loosen bleed screw.


    Fig. Location of the bleed screw for the 2.4L engine
  6. Quickly attach hand operated bleed apparatus to bleed screw. Use care not to over-fill reservoir and spill fluid into engine compartment.
  7. Operate bleed gun sufficiently to expel air upward through circuit and out of master cylinder reservoir. Fill and empty reservoir three times.
  8. Remove bleed apparatus and tighten bleed screw to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  9. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  10. Top off reservoir with fluid, then return the cap.
  11. Verify system operation. Actuate clutch pedal 50 times. If necessary, repeat procedure until road test confirms that shift issues no longer exist.

May 20, 2017 | 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser

1 Answer

Can any 1 tell me how to bleed my clutch on a gasgas ec125 2003. The clutch leaver gone soft. Ran out of dot 4 oil I think.


Hello,

Please follow the instructions below to bleed your clutch:

1) Remove the dust cap from the bleed valve on the Clutch Slave Cylinder.
2) Connect a clear tube to the bleed valve on the Clutch Slave Cylinder - make sure you have a long enough length of tubing so that you can put a loop in the tubing higher than the bleed valve to prevent air from entering the system.
3) Place the other end of the tube into a clean container and fill the container with enough DOT 4 fluid to keep the end of the tube submerged.
4) Clean the top of the Clutch Master Cylinder and remove the screw holding the cover on. Remove the cover and the diaphragm.
5) Check the fluid level, and if low, fill the reservoir almost to the top line. Replace the diaphragm and cover and tighten the screws loosely.
6) Apply the Clutch Lever, slowly, several times and hold the lever in the applied position. Open the Bleed Valve and allow the Clutch Lever to compress completely. Tighten the Bleed Valve and release the Clutch Lever.

Repeat this step until all air bubbles are out of the system. NOTE: make sure to check the reservoir often to keep the fluid level full so air won't enter the system. When finished, make sure to keep the Clutch Lever pulled all the way in and tighten the bleed valve then replace the dust cap. If the lever still feels spongy, it will be necessary to repeat all the steps again until the Clutch Lever feels firm and gives the same feel each time it is applied.

Once you are finished bleeding the clutch system, make sure the fluid reservoir is full and tighten the screws on the cover. Do not apply too much force when tightening these screws as they have a tendency to strip.

If you find this information useful, please vote on this post. Thank you.

Regards,

Oz

Jan 10, 2011 | 2008 Gas Gas EC 200 Hobby

1 Answer

How to bleed the clutch on a 1987 honda goldwing


Hello,

I did a search on Gold Wing problems and saw yours, unanswered for 2 months, and figured you have received your answer from somewhere else.

I will answer your question, just in case you haven't bled your clutch system yet. Just so you know, it is not necessary to bleed your clutch system unless your clutch feels spongy, you have had a leak somewhere in the system, you have had a component replaced, or you are changing the DOT 4 fluid.

1) Remove the dust cap from the bleed valve on the Clutch Slave Cylinder.
2) Connect a clear tube to the bleed valve on the Clutch Slave Cylinder - make sure you have a long enough length of tubing so that you can put a loop in the tubing higher than the bleed valve to prevent air from entering the system.
3) Place the other end of the tube into a clean container and fill the container with enough DOT 4 fluid to keep the end of the tube submerged.
4) Clean the top of the Clutch Master Cylinder and remove the screw holding the cover on. Remove the cover and the diaphragm.
5) Check the fluid level, and if low, fill the reservoir almost to the top line. Replace the diaphragm and cover and tighten the screws loosely.
6) Apply the Clutch Lever, slowly, several times and hold the lever in the applied position. Open the Bleed Valve and allow the Clutch Lever to compress completely. Tighten the Bleed Valve and release the Clutch Lever.

Repeat this step until all air bubbles are out of the system. NOTE: make sure to check the reservoir often to keep the fluid level full so air won't enter the system. When finished, make sure to keep the Clutch Lever pulled all the way in and tighten the bleed valve then replace the dust cap. If the lever still feels spongy, it will be necessary to repeat all the steps again until the Clutch Lever feels firm and gives the same feel each time it is applied.

Once you are finished bleeding the clutch system, make sure the fluid reservoir is full and tighten the screws on the cover. Do not apply too much force when tightening these screws as they have a tendency to strip.

If you are changing the fluid, open the bleed valve and keep apply the clutch until no fluid exits the bleed valve. You will need to follow the above steps to refill the clutch system with fluid.

Regards,

Oz

Nov 21, 2010 | 1987 Honda GL 1200 Aspencade Gold Wing

1 Answer

I have a 5 spped neon and the cluch started to go out on me driving how do i check the fluied on it i just buy it....


Dot 3 brake fluid is OK for topping up the master cylinder. However if the level is right down and the clutch pedal has become spongy then you will have to bleed the air out of the lines. A low level also indicates that the slave cylinder has developed a leak and may also need to be replaced.

Bleeding the system is as follows. It also helps if you have a length of clear plastic tubing that fits snugly over the tip of the bleed nipple, which makes it easier to see if there are any air bubbles still coming out.

1. Start with the Master Cylinder full of fluid. (Don't forget to check after a few bleeds that it stays above ΒΌ full so that you don't introduce more air into the line).

2. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal 2 or 3 times, then hold down, keeping weight on the pedal as fluid is released.

3. Loosen bleed nipple to release any air & fluid.

4. Tighten nipple. Assistant then lets clutch pedal return. It may be necessary to manually pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.

5. Wait a few seconds then repeat the sequence from #2.

Bleeding is complete when no more air bubbles are visible in the fluid released from the bleed nipple. If clutch is still spongy you may have to repeat the bleeding after a few days driving. If the Slave cylinder does not have a bleed nipple the union nut that attaches the fluid pipe can be used for bleeding. However, it is a bit harder to observe when all air is purged and of course very messy as fluid will drip everywhere.

Oct 28, 2010 | 1998 Plymouth Neon

1 Answer

2002 minicooper very stiff clutch when pressng


If you took your cooper in and had a clutch replaced odds are the sevice tec installed a heavy duty clutch. Heavy duty clutches wear longer than light duty clutches and are always stiffer if this is the case you can take your cooper back to the service station and have them install a lightweight clutch.

If the clutch was easy to press and all of a suddon became very stiff to push, you need to check the slave cylender (sorry bad speller) and make sure it has the proper amount of brake fluid. if not top it off and pay attention to its fluid levels because the fluid should never lower and this is a sign of a leaky line somewhere in the system. Hope this helps you out.

Nov 15, 2009 | 2002 Mini Cooper

1 Answer

Clutch calibration on a manual shift 2004 Mazda3


i'm not sure what you mean, "calibrating the clutch". Is the pedal sinking to the floor or not engaging the clutch well? If it seems spongy, there may be air in the line and it will need to be bled. If it does not engage well at all, check your clutch master cylinder for proper level of fluid in the reservoir or any fluid leaking out, the hose for leaks and the slave cylinder for any leaks. If they are, then whatever part was bad will need replacement.

Hope this is a little help,
matt

Sep 17, 2009 | 2004 Mazda 3

1 Answer

Breaks are spongy and break light is on


raise the hood ...on the drivers side right below the cowl panel attached to the front of the vacuum booster. also look at the wheels for fluid ....you may have a wheel cylinder leaking

Nov 01, 2008 | 2000 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

CLUTCH IS SPONGY AND DISENGAGES FARTHER THAN IT USED TO


You may have air in the system - bleed the clutch, top off the fluid, and see if that helps.

Aug 13, 2008 | Mazda Tribute Cars & Trucks

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