Question about 2000 Suzuki GSX-R 600

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I have a 2000 gsxr 600 with a yoshimura slip on exaust.Recently i changed the main jets 132(1-4)130(2-3),I put a shim under the needle and set the mixture screws at 2.5 turns out,I didn't touch the floats.The bike ran fine for a couple days then today as I was riding it,it lost power on the highway.I put it in neutral while it was coasting then started it up again.I noticed a popping sound out the exaust.What do i do.

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I don't know a lot about the Japanese bikes but it sounds more like an ignition problem to me. The "tip off" is the popping sound out of the pipes. It's getting fuel, that's what is making the popping sound in the pipes, the fuel igniting in the pipes. Now, the fuel should be igniting in the cylinders. I'd like to be able to answer that question but I know nothing about our bike. I specialize in Harleys. I'd investigate the ignition system.

Good Luck
Steve

Posted on Aug 25, 2010

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    Jet size for a yamaha route 66 with a 17/38 sprocket


    well, the trans feels like 4 taller gears because with your sprocket change you changed the gear ration and gave yourself taller gears. 1 tooth up front is like 2.2 in back. effectively you changed about 9 teeth. humongous gearing change. Its a 250 and does not have enough hp to pull hard up top.
    You don't change jets for gearing per se'. You jet for motor and exhaust and climate. To see if you need to change jetting up top you do a plug chop. Run WFO throttle at top speed and hit kill switch(pull clutch in) then when you have coasted to a stop remove the plug and look at it. you need to see how the insulator looks. Look down at the base not tip. should be chocolate milk color in a band about 5-7mm. thinner or lighter then bigger main jet. darker or fatter then smaller main jet.
    JUST FYI-Shimming the needle only affects 1/3 throttle to about 2/3 throttle.
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    May 12, 2014 | 2000 Yamaha Xv 250 Virago S

    1 Answer

    Factory Jet Sizes


    Front cylinder carburetor:

    ·
    112.5 Main Jet

    ·
    17.5 Pilot Jet

    ·
    (1) 0.020" thick shim washer under the needle

    ·
    PMS setting apparently varies from bike to bike... but it should be 2.5 turns

    Rear cylinder carburetor:

    ·
    110 Main Jet

    ·
    17.5 Pilot Jet

    ·
    (1) 0.020" thick shim washer under the needle

    ·
    PMS setting apparently varies from bike to bike... but it should be 2.5 turns

    May 23, 2013 | 2000 Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic

    2 Answers

    I took the stock air filter off my 2000 Suzuki Katana 600 and put a K&N air filter in it, when i accelerate it stalls out a bit before kicking up to speed. a slight lag then go.


    Changing to a K&N air filter changes the air/fuel mixture for your bike, and you're probably hitting an overly lean spot before things start to even out. For bikes still running carburetors, which I think you have, you can compensate for this by changing to a slightly larger idle jet. Your main jet is probably fine (it's kicking in after the lag); it's the crossover from idle to main jet that's causing the flat spot.
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    1 Answer

    2001 raptor 660r with k&n air filter and full Yoshimura exhaust I need to know the settings for the carburetor jets, needles, and pilot jets


    will need to fit larger pilot and main jet
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    Hi, I have a 2004 883 Sportster converted to a 1200. It has the Screamin Eagle carb kit, Screamin Eagle II slip on mufflers & a Sceamin Eagle air filter backing plate with K & N filter. I want to...


    The service manual says to "remove the carb" for this job. But yes you can remove the main jet out without removing the carb out. You can rotate the carb and slide it off the intake, but watch how much slack you have in the cables, remove the bottom plug that adjusts the fuel mixture.Take the seat/tank off and loosen both the 3mm bolt and philips mounting screw so you could turn the carb to were you could remove the big bottom 17mm bolt . When you look up into the bolt hole with a light you can see two access holes for both the main and the pilot jets.the pilot can be changed by tilting the carb bottom to the left and removing the big bolt on the bottom. It's accessible without removing the float bowl. To get the needle out, you need to pull the seat and tank, remove the carb top cover (3mm allen bolts), remove the 4mm allen bolt on top of the slide, being careful not to lose the spring and other parts (3 pieces total). Pull the needle out with a needle nose and you're set. The main jet is replacable from the 17mm cap on the bottom. Your needle tube/jet may come out with the main jet but is no biggy. You can drain the float bowl before doing it if you loosen the little 3mm bolt on the bottom of the bowl. Just be sure to readjust the throttle cables after you move the carb back. Tilting the carb pulls all the slack out of the cables and the bind a bit if you dont pull them back. You can remove the main jet with a main jet tool or a 1/4 inch socket. If the needle tube jet (long skinny tube that the main jet threads into) comes out with the main jet, simply unscrew it from the main jet with an 8mm wrench and the tool you used to take out the main jet.You can put the new main jet back in the tube first and then replace the tube back into the carb. The needle will be hanging out of the bottom of the carb where the tube goes. Because you have the carb at an angle the needle will be hanging at an angle, so you need to "thread" the needle into the tube to get it to go back in.Be sure not to over tighten the main jet because you can break it off. Also when you turn the carb, the front boot can turn if it is not tight (this is common on this bike). Be sure to line up the notch on the bottom front intake boot and tighten the front clamp. It is hidden under the crankcase vent hose that runs over the top of the boot. Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

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    1 Answer

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    1 Answer

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    May 30, 2009 | 2000 Suzuki GSX-R 600

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