Question about BMW R 1150 RT (ABS Motorcycles
If you have abs, then that would be the cause. If fluids are good, nothings is locked up, cable is adjusted properly, and your abs light flashes, that would be the abs systems possibly pump or electrical system.
Posted on Aug 31, 2010
Are the brake lights coming ON.When you press the brake pedal.If not then get the brake light switch checked.Also check the voltage at the relay which is clicking.Interchange the relay with any other relay and confirm if still there is clicking.The clicking is the indication of relay functioning but if there is constant clicking then there is a short in the connection causing the relay to click constantly.Get it checked. Keep updated.thanks.
Posted on Aug 30, 2010
As you well know the brake fluids should be changed/flushed yearly drain the entire system of fluid and stop when it runs clear use only DOT 3 normal use and DOT 4 hard riding....below I copied some blogs
NEVER, EVER put pressure on brake discs when changing tires or doing other wheel work! Support the wheel with, perhaps, pieces of 2 x 4 lumber under the tire/rim. Keep the disc(s) OFF the ground! If you do not heed this warning, you MAY warp the disc/carrier. Some folks have old oil drums, one end cut out, set vertically, for use as a fixture when working on disc wheels.
Brake bleeding should be considered a ""NORMAL YEARLY MUST DO"" maintenance item. It is usually easy to do, and hardly has any problems, if you do it right! Failure to annually (or at least every other year at worst case) perform a full system bleeding, in which all of the old discolored fluid is properly bled out of the system and replaced by fresh fluid, will eventually cost you a lot of money, and can cause an accident if bad enough. Once things start to get bad due to neglect, they tend to get worse at an increasing rate. Failure to change the fluid and bleed the brakes may well eventually cause the brakes to bind, seize up, and MIGHT toss you over the handlebars at a very inopportune time (I think ANY time is bad for that!!). See #9 below.
In some instances, you might find your brake pistons jammed; or, partially so. More subtle (and seen more often) is to have them not retract as well as they should, and that can let the pads stay in contact with the discs with too much pressure when they should hardly be touching. There are usually two causes for this. One is the O-ring that is around the piston and seals the fluid from escaping. That O-ring, by deformation (designed to do that), is what is supposed to help retract the pistons ever so slightly, once you release the brake lever pressure. These O-rings have been known to get hard with age....but it is the corrosion in their groove that is the primary problem. Water eventually accumulates from absorption, to the extent that the fluid contains a fair percentage of moisture, and with the corrosion, the O-ring and piston will have sticky problems. Another problem with old fluid...or just accumulated carbon and rubber residue... is that they can plug up the small return hole in the master cylinder, thus the caliper part of the system will retain pressure, and the pistons will not retract fully. See #9 below.
Longevity of HOSES:
Although this particular problem used to be very rare, it is not all that rare nowadays. The BMW stock hoses are VERY good and LAST for quite a few DECADES; ....IF....... you do not hang them by the calipers. That BAD practice CAN excessively bend the hoses INTERNALLY at the fittings. Internal hidden damage is possible. The small diameter internal stiff plastic tube (yep, the thick rubber hose covers that internal tube) kinks, and produces a partial one-way flap. There is a LOT of pressure from the master cylinder when using hand or foot pressure. That pressure needs to relieve itself when the lever is released...by a relatively small amount of fluid coming back to the master cylinder. AFTER the major part of that pressure is relieved (one hopes, by releasing the lever), the final bit of pressure relief effect is from the caliper piston's O-ring deformation, now pushing the piston back a really tiny amount. If a flap or kink develops in the inner tube of the hose, the system might not relieve pressure partially or completely. Even a partial non-release will cause problems, the least of which is, after awhile, a change in surface of the pads, and thereby some squealing and possibly poor pad friction. The worst situation would probably be enough heat from enough pad friction to allow the possibility of brake fluid boiling (especially if the fluid is old!), causing bubbles, causing NO BRAKES!!!
Stainless Steel braided lines are NOT generally any better overall and potentially FAR WORSE, and I recommend you do not willy-nilly replace stock hoses, no matter what type. There are exceptions, but that is a good general rule. I discuss SS hoses in more depth later in this article.
Use ONLY DOT3 or the slightly better DOT4. Keep it OFF the paintwork, and keep a VERY WET RAG on your paintwork when working with it. If, HORRORS!.. it gets on the paintwork, wash it off with water, INSTANTLY...that means RIGHT NOW! You do NOT have 10 seconds! ALWAYS have a WET RAG instantly available when using brake fluid!
Don't use "race" fluids...they require changing once or twice EVERY year without fail, and offer NO advantages to a street bike. There are so-called 'premium' DOT4 fluids; some are called RACE fluids; and there is also, confusingly, a DOT 5.1 that is NOT silicone based and hence is usable...but WHY?
I recommend inexpensive DOT3 for most folks who want the cheapest, and who do change fluids EVERY year and are not overly hard on brakes, with DOT4 for those who are hard on the brakes, getting them VERY hot. It IS BEST to change brake fluid yearly. I personally do it as part of my pre-Winter service. For longest brake system life, your brake fluid really needs yearly changing, as it attracts moisture, right through the non-leaking lines, molecular sized holes in everything....especially the master cylinder bolt and screw fastenings, etc. Bleed the brakes until clear fluid comes out. Best to use a fresh 8 ounce can each time; but not as much of a must as some say...just don't leave the cap off for appreciable amount of time.
If you regularly change fluid by the full bleeding method, until fluid is nice and clear, then you are UNlikely to EVER have to replace the master cylinder or calipers or brake hoses. If you DO open a system, for such as rebuilding a caliper, or changing a hose, use only brake fluid or specific brake cleaner, for cleaning parts. For very serious caliper overhauls, etc., you COULD use other solvents, heck, even detergent and water...but after drying, any reassembly means using brake fluid for lubrication of parts during assembly, ETC.
In MY opinion, the absolute limit for brake fluid changing for a bike with very MINimal use, is 18 months. Those who ride in a lot of humid weather, or who ride a lot; if the bike is parked in the sunlight, etc., might even consider 6 month fluid changes. Fluid is VERY cheap compared to new parts
on this matter....hope it helps you decide.
Posted on Aug 23, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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