Question about 2002 Yamaha TT-R 250

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Have a 1983 yamaha gt80 just purchased had been sitting in a barn several years cleaned the fuel system completely runs and sounds good engine dies immediately soon as its put into gear like its ignition or some kind of safety switch ? couldnt find my year and model in your product line up

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The clutch plates may have stuck together and this would not allow them to 'slip' when you put it in gear.Try riding along in 1st gear.Pull in the clutch lever and using the brakes at the same time,give it as much throttle as you can.It sometimes unsticks the plates.
Otherwise you need to pull the clutch apart,unstick and clean the plates and put it back together in EXACTLY the same order as it came apart
Hope this helps

Posted on Aug 22, 2010

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Check for a side stand kill switch. It could be bad.

Posted on Aug 22, 2010

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I have a 1983 gr650 tempter. The engines runs great sitting still. Hits rpms and sounds good. My problem is when I put it into gear, it spits and sputters and wont hit rpms. I'm lost.


Obviously something is wrong. Start simple check all routine maintenance items, empty the gas & save a sample from the bottom of the tank. Why? Ethanol/gas loves to absorb water from the air in as little as 1 month. Additives allow the water to mix with the fuel, it does not prevent it and it needs agitation to mix. So if your bike sits in a garage for 6 months waiting for good weather, you can expect to be running watered down fuel. It will sound like those lawn mowers that sputter and spit in the spring after sitting all winter. If you find water, even 1 drop, clean everything out: tank, fuel lines, fuel pump(if applicable), carb, and carb bowl if applicable. If all is well, do a compression test.

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What other items need to be changed after 10 year dry storage on 1981 yamaha seca


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Yamaha 1979 GT 80 won't stay running set float cleaned carb new needle and seat bogs at top end


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Inlet system air leak.
2. Enrichener valve not seated or leaking.
3. Damaged or restricted fuel tank vent system.
4. Restricted fuel supply tract.
5. Dirty or damaged air cleaner element.
6. Plugged bowl vent or overflow.
7. Worn or damaged needle or needle jet.
8. Vacuum piston assembly malfunction.
9. Loose or plugged main jets or passages.
10. Improper float level.
11. Accelerator pumps inoperative.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day.
https://yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/16021-1979-yamaha-gt80-wierd-problem
Yamaha GT 80 Problems
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How to adjust carb on 1973 dt 80 cc


Hi, Cori if you have changed your fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" your not getting enough fuel.
1. Closed to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. Wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the websites below. Good luck and have nice a day.
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83 yamaha enticer 300 wont start. if i use starting fluid directly into cylinders it runs and dies


Check for your accelerator pump is pumping fuel directly into the engine when you rotate the throttle, if not then you probably need a carburator fuel pump kit. (usually located on the outside of the carbs). However, through following the mechanical linkage, you can see that it leads directly to the little pump assembly as well.

Good luck my friend.

kd4rua

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1 Answer

Yamaha GT80 2nd gear engine bog


Hi, Sullyotter engine "BOG" is mainly caused by a rich air and lean fuel condition but it can also be caused by a lean air and rich fuel condition this situation rarely occurs and is only caused by the misinformed weekend warrior that owns a toolbox.
The more you open your throttle the more vacuum you are creating in your carburetor venturi and your intake manifold. When you are operating at higher RPM any unmetered air that leaks into your system can become more obvious.
Unmetered air is air that is getting into your system after the fuel has been delivered. If you have unmetered air getting into your system between the butterfly/slide of the carburetor and the cylinder head this will create a lean condition.
All of the rubber components of the fuel system like vacuum hoses and intake manifold that you mount the carburetor to are made of rubber. If none of these components have been changed out they are more than likely highly degraded and probably cracked in places to allow unwanted-unmetered-contaminated air into the combustion chamber. Check all of your vacuum lines and vacuum plugs for carburetor synchronization. The vacuum plugs are in the head just after the rubber intake manifolds. The petcock has a vacuum line as well as part of the emission system.
1. Check the intake manifold for cracks.
2. Ensure the bands used to tighten the manifolds down on the intake are secure and have not bound up the manifold.
3. Make sure air box fittings are not warped and fit completely over the carburetor.
Your airbox is metering air and is the first step in a process of consuming air and fuel. The system requires the resistance of the air filter in order to get the proper vacuum to "SUCK" the fuel out of the float bowl and create the proper venturi effect.
Improper mounting and sealing of the airbox will create a small lean effect. This might seem like no big deal but you are inviting dust and debris in your engine that is doing slow damage by not having proper fitment. Fix it so you know it's not contributing to your issue. Pick the low hanging fruit first.
Do not go and start adjusting anything at this point. It ran fine before. There is something wrong with the assembly or a component. Do not adjust your floats. Get it back to where it was. The moment you start tweaking everything is the moment you lose OEM settings which are a must have for fine tuning and maximum performance.
Fine tuning your carburetor and multi carb syncing come at the very end following the proper procedure established by the Carburetor Gods.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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My 1983 Jetta starts perfect but then only runs for 2 seconds and then dies as if I turned the key off. It had been sitting for a couple of years and I just replaced the fuel pump because the one on it...


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