Question about 1984 Honda GL 1200 Aspencade Gold Wing

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If you charge the battery bike starts and runs fine.When battery gets low bike dies. Charging system not working.How do you check voltage regulator?

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Unfortunately you cannot check the regulator portion of the regulator/rectifier. The common failure on these units is the stator itself, which is located in the rear of the motor and requires motor removal to replace. If you haven't done so already, check the stator connector (3 pin connector with yellow wires located near the battery). Often these leads develop resistance and get hot and melt the wires in this area. A repair kit is available from Honda with new wires and connectors. However first I would check the stator to be sure it is ok. You can check resistance between each of the yellow wires. The readings should be fairly equal and should have no continuity to ground. If you have continuity to ground, your stator is bad. You can also check AC output between yellow wires with the motor running, you should get voltage readings from about 20VAC at idle that increase to approximately 60-90VAC as the motor is revved up.
Hope this helps.

Posted on Aug 21, 2010

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Replaced battery bike started seveal tmes during a 2 week period and now it will not start. it will only make a clicking sound and it seem's to be coming from my starter. i purcheased another harley...


Yes, you need to check your charging system. First remove the battery and fully charge it (overnight) then refit, and start the bike. With the engine running at about twice the idle speed check the voltage at the battery. It should be approx 14 volts DC. If it is lower than 12.5 you should look first at the voltage regulator and rectifier. The symptoms you describe lead me to believe your charging system is the culprit. It may also be be your alternator, but check the regulator and rectifier first (cheaper)

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After charging battery will start it but after shutting her off she will not fire up again she does tur over but with little juice, 1986 honda vfr700 interceptor


It sounds like your battery is not getting charged, so you're running your bike with a "total loss" electrical system. Your bike will run--for quite a while if the headlight isn't on--off the stored energy in a battery.

If this were a car, the immediate place to check would be the alternator and / or the alternator belt. With a motorcycle, especially one of this vintage, I would actually start somewhere else. One of the most common reasons that a bike will fail to charge is that it has developed ground issues. Double-check the negative cable attached to your battery. The other end most likely attaches to the engine or the frame with a big bolt. Look for any rust at that mounting point. You probably won't find any, or else the bike would never run very well, but it's an easy first check.

Charging problems I've had with older Honda motorcycles have often been with the voltage regulator or with one or more connectors in the electrical system, rather than with the stator itself. Trace the output wires from the stator to the voltage regulator, which is usually mounted away from the engine (it's often near the battery box or under a side panel). With the bike running, use a volt meter to check two things: (1) output from the voltage regulator; and (2) raw, unregulated output from the stator into the voltage regulator. A bad regulator may be putting out voltage that's too low, in which case the battery's stored energy is tapped to make up the difference. On the other hand, if you're not seeing ANY voltage coming out of the regulator, make sure that juice is being fed into the regulator so it has something to do.

If you're not seeing voltage on the input side of the regulator, the problem has been narrowed to the stator or to a bad connector in between the stator and the voltage regulator. I have seen a number of problems arising from low-quality wiring insulation used in 1980s bikes; it's much cheaper to fix that than to replace the stator in your bike. Alternatively, if you're seeing input voltage but not output voltage from your regulator, I'd suspect you may have found the problem. I believe, though I'm not certain, that Honda still used a mechanical as opposed to digital regulator on this bike, and those mechanical regulators do go bad. You can find used but warranted replacements for not too much money online; depending on how universal the regulator is (Honda used the same voltage regulator in all of its motorcycles from ~1971 through 1978), a brand new one may not be all that expensive, either.

A final, somewhat random thought is that you should also take your battery to an auto parts store to have it checked. A heavily sulfated battery will test out at 12.6 volts, but it won't be able to store its rated amperage. A battery like that may work well enough right after it's been taken off an external charger, but it won't have the amps to turn over the starter after it's been sitting for a while. This doesn't sound like what you're experiencing, which is why I didn't lead off my solution with this suggestion, but a weak battery will put a lot of stress on your charging system and can can lead to some odd symptoms.

Good luck!

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My Aprilia Mojito 125 doesen't star. Ive had it to repair shop several times, they says battery is to small for the bike. Can I have the battery moved from glove box to under the seat and increase the ...


I am not familiar with the Mojito's qwarks. Sometimes the charging systems are underpowered and can't keep the batteries charged on some scooters. Check with Aprilia to see if there is a recall or service bulletin on the bike. If the bike started and ran fine when it was new, and you have the factory sized battery in the bike, then the problem is not with the battery size. If the battery is more than 2 years old, replace it. It may show as good on a volt meter, but it may not have sufficient amps to crank the engine, or be able to hold the charge. The dealer should also check the charging system to make sure it is charging at least 12.8V at idle, and well over 13V (volts) when the engine is revved up. Most scooters charge at 13.5V-14.7V when revved up. It shouldn't exceed 15V. An Aprilia dealer should have the factory specifications for the charging system and can test this in just 5 minutes. If you are having a charging issue, then it is most likely your voltage regulator/rectifier or your stator. The stator is what produces the electricity when the engine is running, the regulator is what smooths the power out and sends it to your battery at the proper voltage. Regulators fail more frequently than stators and are cheaper to repair. Other possible problems are the starter relay or the starter itself may be worn out and drawing too much power. Again, if the bike started fine when it was new, and you have the factory sized battery, then don't change the battery size. You may only be treating the symptom and not the problem. And applying more power can simply cause more damage. If the problem is that you just have to run the starter for a long time before it starts, and you just run the battery down, then it may have nothing to do with your starting system at all. It may be a low compression issue, dirty carb/fuel injection problem, old spark plug, etc. Hope this helps. www.solanocycle.com

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1 Answer

All at once my honda won't crank. I've recharged the battery but it just gives a clicking noise when I try to crank it and I believe its drained the battery from this ??


battery more than three years old? get a new one, and don't even mess around with trickle charging it has a bad cell and you can confirm this the next time it dies on you check voltage, if it reads 12.3v or less its definitely bad. if your positive that the battery is good showing a charge of 12.5v or more then its probably your voltage regulator going bad..you can check this by starting the bike and rev the bike to 4k and watch the voltage climb up to @14.5 v and then get regulated down to @ 13.0v..this is a properly running charging system.

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Don't rely on on whether the bike will start at a gas station to determine if the charging system is working. Get the multimeter out and do a proper test. Should be getting about 14.5 volts @ around 3K RPM. It's too easy of a test to to just skip. If it is charging then start looking for something else. Was the new battery properly charged to begin with? Loose battery connection? I suppose the GPS could be too much but you said that it was dying last november, so I would suspect something else. P.S. you need a properly charged battery to get an accurate reading for the charging test.

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I think 13.26 is very good for a bike of it's age. Especially charging a bigger cell battery such as a car battery! I wouldn't worry to much about your charging system looks to be doing just fine. almost sounds like your bike needs to be taken out for a Relief of sitting run.

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