Front end feels rubbery, ive tried new tire, fork bearings,progressive springsm w/15wt oil, even ties a different set of forks. wheel bearings in front and rear have no play, rear swingarm does not have any play, I am just about at wits end, need new ideas. thank you

Begin by loosening the upper triple-clamp pinch bolts and breaking the fork caps loose while the fork is still held by the lower triple clamp. You will need to remove the caps to refill the fork tubes with oil.
Determine if the fork legs have oil drain plugs near the bottom of the legs. If they do, you are in luck and will be able to change the oil without removing the fork legs. Put old newspapers on the floor under the front end. Place a drain pan under the fork legs and remove the drain plugs, one side at a time. Hold the front brake and push down on the fork several times to pump the oil out. When oil stops coming out, reinstall the plugs using new sealing washers.
Without Drain Plugs
If there are no drain plugs (look carefully), you'll need to remove the fork legs to drain the oil. At this point you can decide to have it done professionally or do the work yourself. We'll cover the main, basic steps. Refer to a shop manual to learn all the exact procedures involved. Some motorcycles may require fairings, handlebars, etc. to be removed.
Support the motorcycle either on the centerstand (if equipped) or by using a motorcycle jack under the engine. If you use the centerstand, you may need to place a sandbag on the rear of the seat, hold the front end up using straps from the rafters, or support the bike underneath the engine. Use tie-downs to steady the bike on the jack. Grasp the lower fork legs and try to push and pull the fork toward the back of the bike and forward to check for loose steering head bearings. Inspect the pleated rubber fork boots, if equipped. Check for signs of fork oil leakage and any grooves in the fork tube wear surfaces where the seals make contact. Also check for looseness between the fork legs and tubes that would indicate bushing wear.
Remove the front wheel and axle assembly. Support and tie the brake caliper(s) out of the way. Remove the front fender and speedometer cable, if equipped. With the fork leg fully extended, remove the top cap from a leg. Be prepared as there may be some spring pressure pushing against the cap.
Loosen and remove the pinch bolt from the lower triple clamp and lower the fork leg. Note any shims or washers and spring. Turn the leg upside down in a drain pan until oil stops flowing out. You may have to move the damping rod in and out to get the oil out. Repeat the procedure for the other side.
Reinstall the fork legs and other removed components in the reverse order of removal.
All Models
Add the exact amount and type of oil recommended by the manufacturer. Some motorcycles call for the use of a dipstick to determine how much oil to use instead of just pouring a certain amount of oil back in. Follow the manufacturer's shop manual recommendations.
Carefully install the threaded top caps by hand to avoid cross-threading. Tighten the pinch bolts and top caps to the factory-specified torques. After the brakes are installed, pump up the lever until the brakes feel normal again. Once the bike is assembled and on the floor, push down on the front end to verify the suspension's response. Turn the steering from its left to right limits to ensure nothing is binding, and check all controls including the throttle for proper operation.

problems like this are best discussed with an accredited bike shop who has experience with wheel wobbles
you have changed the front tire to radial but did you change the back tire at the same time as radials and cross ply ( bias ply) tires have different handling characteristics
the wobble may be like a lack of compatibility between case constructions and I am thinking this because you say that the problem goes when changing back to the bias ply

A wobble that appears when slowing down is many times just low tire pressure. Check the front tire pressure should be 32-35 pds. Another thing that can cause a wobble is worn or loosely adjusted fork frame neck bearings(steering stem bearings). Disassemble around the handlebars down to the frame neck till you get the upper triple clamp off or can reach the adjuster nut , just underneath on top of the frame neck enough to tighten the steering stem bearings. You will need a shock adjusting tool (curved end with a single tooth) Comes standard in all Honda tool kits). Next, put a jack under the motor to lift the front wheel . Carefully wiggle the front wheel to see if you have a bad wheel bearing. If you do not have fork oil in your forks, you could possibly damage the chrome tubes. No oil would mean the forks would not go up and down smoothly. Do not add oil to your forks. Do not over fill your forks with oil. If you are not sure how much oil is in them, drain them and refill them with the correct amount. If you over fill the forks and drive the bike you will destroy the fork tubes.

One thing you could try is a "fork brace" or what some people call a "tweek bar" that ties the two sliders together. This reduces the amount of flex in the front forks. We used to run them on our dirt bikes years ago. They do help stabilize the front end.

Also drop your front tire pressure to 30 psi and look for any unusual wear patterns on you tires such as cupping. Take the wheel off and have it spin balanced as well. You can also change the fork oil in your forks. I run PJ1 30 weight in my Wide Glide. It's a bit on the stiff side but it sure helped the handling as the bike no longer bounces and dives in the turns. I also got away from the Dunlop tires. I now run Metezler 880's and they seem to handle the turns better but I think the Dunlops had better braking characteristics.

Good Luck
Steve

are the forks leaking oil? is there air pressure in the forks? Start by draining the forks and putting in the correct ammount of the proper oil, and getting the air pressure right then see how she rides. Other things to check, front wheel bearings, worn triple tree bearings.

Need to check the entire front end. Start at the Neck stem Bearings then fork straightness- Fork oil level- Axel straightness- wheel straightness-wheel balance.
Good luck.

Check that all nuts and bolts that fasten the front lower forks to the wheel axle are tight and in good shape. Also the front tire may have a shifted belt which is difficult to diagnose but can cause the symptom you are describing. If you ran over a pot hole or nasty bump the rim may be bent. While driving the bike try to look down at the front wheel to observe any warpage on the rim if the rim is bent bring it to a motorcycle repair shop they can tighten the spokes in a way that will straighten the rim.

Jack up the front end until the wheel is off the ground, then slowly rotate the bars from one stop to the other. If you hear noises or it feels rough, take the forks and wheel off, disassemble the fork head and inspect the upper and lower bearings and races for damaged surfaces. Clean and repack bearings with fresh grease. Reassemble the fork head and adjust the bearings to just remove slop. Recheck the rotation. When putting the forks and wheel back, check the shock action of each fork individually. If the machine has a lot of miles, drain the fork oil and recharge. Make sure that the axle is clamped tight as well as the fork head clamp and top bolts. Has the bike ever been hit hard in the front? If yes, it could have changed the fork angle making it unstable.

Several options are available. If there is another dealer in the area go there. If not, take it in to the original dealer and tell them you want it fixed. Challenge them to ride with you with you as a passenger. Show them first hand what is going on and their obligation under contract to find and fix the fault. Be aware that they will probably try to respond " We have no control over how an owner rides his bike and the damage he may do to it while riding. As such the warranty will not cover repairs due to user neglect or damage." There is some validity to the statement. See what the warranty may say on the matter.

Okay, so the warranty doesn't cover it. What if a part were missing in the wheel assembly? In any event why can't his in house mechanic figure out what is going on? If no joy, contact the Yamaha regional manager. You can usually resolve issues that way. Alternate to that you could introduce the dealer to your two best friends> Mr. Smith and Mr. Wesson. :)

The front wheel should have a collar then an oil seal then a bearing on each side of the hub. The axle goes through the right fork, the hub, then the left fork. Bad bearings? Pull the wheel yourself and check. Any wear on the axle? Put your finger in the bearing. Does it turn freely and smoothly? Check the steering stem bearings and the torque on the stem crown nut. Any missing parts in the stem assembly? Are the forks operating properly? Check the forks for smooth, uinform and equal action. Both forks should act the same. If one is stiff and one is spongy then spook city can appear. Is the oil level the same in both forks? Has a spring in one fork collapsed? Measure the springs. Are they within factory specifications? How is the tire pressure? Are the forks mounted properly? Have they been twisted or knocked out of alignment? Is the wheel running true? I think .008 is the spec limit on the outside circumference and the same left an right. Somewhere in what I have written is your answer. If nothing else, the mechanic now has a checklist to work from.

Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock.
www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx

Please rate this solution. Thanks!

Hi,
Front end vibration can be caused by front rim/tire out of balance, worn wheel bearing(s), bent front rim, or fork misalignment.
Since you recently had fork work done, I would first check the forks for proper alignment, then have the bike on a stand and spin the wheel to see if there is wobbling. To check for bearing wear, while the front is off the ground, try to rock the wheel from side to side. If you can feel or see movement, you will need new bearings.
Hope this helps