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Re: Ih i put formula 1 exhaust on my bike does bike need...
The shop who sold you the exhaust should have given you some indication, but if the bike starts and runs fune and revs clean through the rev range, it may not need rejetting.
hesitation,backfiring,uneven idle, hard start, can all be symptoms of incorrect jetting.
If it is lean, you can sometime diagnose this by using the choke.
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Hi, Gavin nice novella if you have changed your fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" your not getting enough fuel.
1. Closed to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. Wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the websites below. Good luck and have nice a day. Life On 2 Wheels 50cc GET Carburetor Basic Tuning PEUGEOT SpeedFight 3 Workshop Manual Browse Product Categories PEUGEOT Speedfight 2 Owner Manual
These engines are designed and tuned specifically to run the best with the stock air filters as well as the stock mufflers and exhaust. Putting pods on and chopping off your exhaust pipes may look cool but it will cause the bike to run very poorly My advice would be to put it all back to stock and see how she rides and then change things one at a time.
I have a 2006 Kingpin with stage one. Victory down loads newinfo to onboard engine control modual, for remapping. I am not a big fan. What you need is an independant fuel proccesor, so you can fine tune all the pots. This will really put a smile on your face. Like the saying goes If you wonder why dogs ride with there heads out the window and there tounges hanging out. Ride a stage one Victory. Good luck
sounds like he was right! it needs a tune up!...change plugs and wires replace old air filter and FUEL filter,... put in fresh gas along with some Sea foam from Autzone pour in 1/3 can to two gallons fuel and then push start the bike if you have to and get on it and ride ...it might take about 10-15 miles before you'll notice a difference.
I assume that you're working on an S&S Super E. This carb is a bit much for an old Ironhead but I've seen plenty of them on these old machines. I think the Ironhead engine is the prettiest engine Harley ever built. They are also one of the most aggrevating as well.
On your S&S, the best jetting I've found for them is a #26.5 slow jet with a #68 or 70 main jet.
You must tune a Super E model the same way you tune a Super B model. The only difference between the two models is the "B" model does not have the accelerator pump. When you tune an "E" model, disable the accelerator pump by backing out on the screw that controls it. With the accelerator disabled, procede to tune your carb by turning the idle mixture control screw unwards until it stops and back out on complete turn. Now rev the engine, does it rev clean or does it bog? If it bogs, come out another half turn and rev the engine. It is better or worse. If you still can't tell, come out half turns at a time until you can tell it's either better or worse. By turning the screw out, you're adding more fuel. So if it revs better with the screw three turns out, you need a richer slow jet. If it gets worse, reset it to one turn out and start inward. If it gets better going inward, go to a leaner slow jet. Once you change the jet, go back to one turn off the bottom on your idle mixture screw and try it all over again. Eventually, you will get the slow jet right where you need it to be.
Now, tuning the high or main jet will have to be done on the road. Find you a long uphill run somewhere. With the bike in high gear, roll the throttle on wide open going up the hill. If the bike spits or sputter back through the carb, you're way lean. If it starts to pull back off on the throttle about an eigth of a turn and see if it pulls better. If so, you're just a little lean. If it feels sluggish or black smoke is coming out of the exhaust, you're too rich.
Once you get these areas worked out, go back and add your accelerator pump back in. Take it on the road and roll the throttle on. Does it bog or blow black smoke. Turn the screw one half turn at a time. If it gets worse, go the other way half turn at a time. Be careful not to get it too rich on the pump shot. Most riders do get the accelerator pump too rich. Have someone ride behind you watching for the puff of black smoke.
You can download the installation instructions at the S&S website. Go to the "technical" section and then to "installation instructions". These instructions tell you everything you need to know adjust your carb and then some.
One word of advice on your Ironhead. If you are running open drag pipes, you can tune your carb till you're blue in the face and your bike will have a 'dead spot' at about 50-60 mph somewhere. This is because you have no backpressure on your exhaust. To get the backpressure you need while keeping that bad sound you like, drill a hole in the backside of your drag pipes so that you can add a 1/4" X 1 1/4" bolt about an inch or inch and a half into the pipe. Most drag pipes have a hole in this area for the bolt that holds the baffle in. Look at another set until you find one with the hole for the baffle retaining screw. Drill your pipes the same way. Put the 1/4" X 1 1/4" screw into the pipe and put three nuts on the bolt inside the pipe. Make sure you get them all tight. This will usually put just about the right amount of backpressure on your exhaust to cure the "dead zone". Hope this helps. Good Luck!
body cover!...believe me... a ride around without mine on... gives me that rat look i like and it makes it a lot easier to maintain...especially if you're out on long rides and need to access or work on the bike..your preference though! Whats wrong with the bike? Seafoam might clear it up. get it from autzone $10, pour 1/3 can into two gallons gas and get on it,and you wouldnt have to do anything but ride it for 10 miles or so till problem goes away...maybe. My moto is dont mess with the carbs unless you absolutely have too! they might just be vanished all up.
No.Although, it is a common practice to de-tune bikes at the factory so that they meet emissions requirements. All new injected HD's can expect a 4-6% increase in horsepower and 2-3% increase in torque just by dyno tuning the bike straight off the showroom floor.
If you're riding a Low with a carb, then you do not need to have it re-jetted for slip-on's. If you're changing the exhaust from where it bolts to the engine, then yes you should. Dyno tuning is not as useful on carbureted bikes compared to injected ones, in fact I could tune a carbureted Low just as easily with an Exhaust Gas Analyzer as a dyno and save you $300.
You're probably not that interested in minor differences in horsepower if you're doing slip-ons rather than a whole Screaming Eagle Stage 2 kit. Bolt 'em on and ride...
wait rivits? what? those kinda hold the exhaust together last I checked. The REAL way to get more performance is to either get a faster bike or buy an aftermarket exhaust. And get it tuned to match. And get good tires. And make sure your suspension is up to snuff and setup for your weight and riding style. And then you can change the intake though that could be done with the exhaust. Maybe a quick turn throttle, though don't buy a kit, use a zip tie. Or 2.,,,