There is a hose hanging down from the rear axle area. it comes out of a junction where the brake line comes in and branches out to the rear wheels. it has a plastic connector on the end but i cant find where it plugged into anything

Unless you have a hydraulic press, don't attempt this in your basic garage or driveway.

I had something similar on my old 92 dakota

In my case it was the rear only abs hcu unit

Your rubber hose goes to either the brake tube from
the front of the truck ( rear feed) or to as you said some
other brake component.

You should be able to determine where the leak is &
if you have to replace a component unknown to us,because of rust & leaking- the dealer will be the source

The auto parts stores stopped having intellegent life about
25 years ago,they can't keep up with technology & your dealing
with young non car guys.

At the dealers parts counter they will show you on their computer
a picture of your frame & unknown part- if you even need it

Most likely you will be fabricating a rusted brake tube,hang in there

Hi i think its a breather pipe from rear axle which allows pressure built up in the rear axle to escape
Hope this helps
John ( South Wales UK )

Look up high, on the differential case. Fill the gear oil there.

When I looked it up on my online resource it says there is a vent hose at the top of the differential, #7.

Rear Axle Axle Housing Assembly Removal & Installation To Remove:
Exploded view of the rear axle mounting

1. Raise and support the rear of the vehicle safely using jackstands under the frame. Position a floor jack or a second set of jackstands to support the rear axle housing. If a floor jack is being used, take care when removing the U-bolts to keep the axle from suddenly dislodging.
2. Remove the rear wheels and drums for clearance and to remove some weight from the axle housing.
3. If equipped, remove the axle vibration dampener.
4. Matchmark and remove the rear driveshaft from the pinion flange. Either remove the shaft completely from the vehicle or support it aside from the undercarriage using safety wire, but DO NOT allow the shaft to hang from the slip joint.
5. Remove the shock absorber-to-axle housing retainers, then swing the shock absorbers away from the axle housing.
6. Disconnect the brake lines from the axle housing clips and the backing plates (wheel cylinders). NOTE: When disconnecting the brake lines from the wheel cylinders, immediately plug or cap the lines to prevent system contamination or excessive fluid loss.
   
7. If applicable, unplug the speed sensor connectors at the junction block.
8. Disconnect the parking brake cable(s).
9. Disconnect the axle housing-to-spring U-bolt nuts, washers. U-bolts and the anchor plates.
10. Remove the vent hose from the top of the axle housing.
11. Remove the axle with the help of an assistant by moving it to clear the leaf spring, or if desired, the leaf springs can be disconnected from the frame at the rear end to lower the axle down and back, but first refer to the leaf spring procedures for information regarding spring installation and removal.

To Install:

1. With the help of an assistant, carefully position the rear axle into the vehicle.
2. Connect the vent hose to the axle housing.
3. Be sure the housing is properly positioned on the leaf spring, then loosely install the U-bolts, anchor plates, washers and nuts.
   • Tighten the U-bolt nuts in a cross pattern to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) to make sure everything is evenly seated. Then tighten the nuts in steps to 41 ft. lbs. (55 Nm) on 1994-95 models or 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm) on 1996 and later models.
4. Remove the caps from the brakes lines then connect the lines and secure them to the axle housing.
5. If removed, connect the parking brake cable(s).
6. If applicable, attach the speed sensor connectors to the junction block.
7. Align and install the driveshaft assembly. Refer to the procedure earlier in this section for details.
8. Install the shock absorbers to the lower mounts, then tighten the mount nuts.
9. If equipped, install the axle vibration dampener.
10. Install the brake drums and the tire/wheel assemblies.
11. Properly refill the brake master cylinder and bleed the hydraulic brake system.
12. Check the fluid level in the rear axle assembly and add, as necessary. Make sure the vehicle is level when checking and adding fluid.
13. Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the truck.

Axle Housing Assembly Removal & Installation To Remove:
Exploded view of the rear axle mounting

1. Raise and support the rear of the vehicle safely using jackstands under the frame. Position a floor jack or a second set of jackstands to support the rear axle housing. If a floor jack is being used, take care when removing the U-bolts to keep the axle from suddenly dislodging.
2. Remove the rear wheels and drums for clearance and to remove some weight from the axle housing.
3. If equipped, remove the axle vibration dampener.
4. Matchmark and remove the rear driveshaft from the pinion flange. Either remove the shaft completely from the vehicle or support it aside from the undercarriage using safety wire, but DO NOT allow the shaft to hang from the slip joint.
5. Remove the shock absorber-to-axle housing retainers, then swing the shock absorbers away from the axle housing.
6. Disconnect the brake lines from the axle housing clips and the backing plates (wheel cylinders). NOTE: When disconnecting the brake lines from the wheel cylinders, immediately plug or cap the lines to prevent system contamination or excessive fluid loss.
   
7. If applicable, unplug the speed sensor connectors at the junction block.
8. Disconnect the parking brake cable(s).
9. Disconnect the axle housing-to-spring U-bolt nuts, washers. U-bolts and the anchor plates.
10. Remove the vent hose from the top of the axle housing.
11. Remove the axle with the help of an assistant by moving it to clear the leaf spring, or if desired, the leaf springs can be disconnected from the frame at the rear end to lower the axle down and back, but first refer to the leaf spring procedures for information regarding spring installation and removal.

To Install:

1. With the help of an assistant, carefully position the rear axle into the vehicle.
2. Connect the vent hose to the axle housing.
3. Be sure the housing is properly positioned on the leaf spring, then loosely install the U-bolts, anchor plates, washers and nuts.
   • Tighten the U-bolt nuts in a cross pattern to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) to make sure everything is evenly seated. Then tighten the nuts in steps to 41 ft. lbs. (55 Nm) on 1994-95 models or 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm) on 1996 and later models.
4. Remove the caps from the brakes lines then connect the lines and secure them to the axle housing.
5. If removed, connect the parking brake cable(s).
6. If applicable, attach the speed sensor connectors to the junction block.
7. Align and install the driveshaft assembly. Refer to the procedure earlier in this section for details.
8. Install the shock absorbers to the lower mounts, then tighten the mount nuts.
9. If equipped, install the axle vibration dampener.
10. Install the brake drums and the tire/wheel assemblies.
11. Properly refill the brake master cylinder and bleed the hydraulic brake system.
12. Check the fluid level in the rear axle assembly and add, as necessary. Make sure the vehicle is level when checking and adding fluid.
13. Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the truck.

From your discription, if it is square in shape and has 3 brake lines attached to it, it is the rear brake junction block. Double check and make sure it isn't a brake line that is attached to it. If the leak is above the rear axle on back of the wheel, that's the rear wheel brake cylinder.

There is no return line. The line should be filled with fluid that applies the brakes when pressurized. Some systems have a vent hose on the rear axle that is only connected on one end, but the hydraulic line will be solid and unopened. There is a junction on some systems that routes the fluid to the right and left wheels. There are different kinds of brake problems - if you are not familiar with braking systems I recommend you refer it to a professional.

you have to replace bearing and hub as a unit.you have to remove remove brakes and caliper rotor set them aside dont disconnect brake line. get a piece of clothes rack wire to hold brake caliper .do not let it hang by brake hose. you got to remove hub nut. best way to do that is loosen it a litttle while tire still on weight of car keep wheel from turning .

Usually goes to a junction block on the axle. Measure it when you get it out. You don't have to duplicate it exactly but make sure that it dosen't rub on anything when axle moves. If you can't get exact length, you can use brass couplers. If line fitting on either wheel cylinder or junction is rusted in, cut the line flush with the fitting and use a six point socket on it. Make sure you bleed system when finished. (not just one wheel)

The only real solution to your problem is to replace the damaged line, bleed the brakes, and check for leaks after you are done. The line should go up to the frame, and go into a small metal bracket that is welded to the frame. The hose is usually held in place by a small metal clip, and a steel brake line will thread into the end of the hose assy. where it terminates in the frame mounted brakcet.