Question about 2010 Honda Elite

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I bought a 1986 honda ch150 elite.It did not have a battery so the former owner put in one he had not noticing the and - connections. Fast forward to now. I started working on it and bought a new battery for it. Found out it had the wrong battery. It runs buts drains the battery then dies. How Can I test for a bad rectifier/regulator and alt? I did some testing and the alt seems to be putting out only 6 volts instead of 12 volts at the carb. bystarter. It is suppose to be 12v at the bystarter when the engine is running. Thanks, John

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  • Honda Master
  • 43,735 Answers

Hi, Jwright89 nice novella before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage and must be replaced AGM types more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Honda Elite CH 150 Charging System Fuse
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
Honda CH150 Manual
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda 125 150 Owner Manual

Posted on May 07, 2017

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Posted on Oct 06, 2009

yeskimoe663
  • 224 Answers

SOURCE: Battery not charging

run an ohm test on the stator wires, make sure you get readings through all combinations of any 2 wires. if you don't get an ohms reading between 2 wires that means you have a broken stator winding and the stator needs to be replaced. hook up a volt meter to your battery and test battery voltage at rest (bike off), at idle (bike on and idling should be at least 12.5 - 13 volts), and steady around 3 - 4000 rpms (should be around 13-14.5 volts. if it exceeds 15 volts your regulator is bad and needs to be replaced. if all numbers are about what I said, have your battery tested. If your battery is over 1.5 years old it should be replaced anyway.

Posted on Jun 10, 2010

  • 2309 Answers

SOURCE: Honda Elite 80 1986 motorscooter - won't keep running

most probably a carb problem, either dried out or gummed, rebuild it

Posted on Jul 24, 2010

Porrelli
  • 167 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 1993 honda cbr 1000 f with an electrical

G'day.
It is possible to get a faulty reg from new but extremely unlikely.Obviously they are all tested at the factory before packaging.As are all electrical parts.Which are non-returnable in most cases too I'm sorry to say.
Try this test.
With you multi-meter set to ohms & set to the highest scale(k ohms) check the conunuity between each of the three stator wires TO EARTH.
So, disconect the regulator conector at the reg.
Connect one meter probe to a yellow wire & the other probe to earth.(make sure your fingers arn't touching the metal part of the probes or you'll get a false reading).
You should get an open circuit-no conunuity.
If any of the three yellow wires has any conunuity to earth then the stator is at fault.
Sometimes on occasion it has been known for a winding to take a short circuit,without grounding efectivly by-passing only part of the coil & reducing the output of the stator.But again extremely rare.
Seeing that the alternator cover is reasonably easy to remove(I did a Triumph daytona stator removal recently in about 1/2 an hour),I would suggest if all else fails & you're not sure what to do, remove the alternator cover & visually inspect the stator to see if any burning is visable.
If the stator is burnt out in any way, it is common for a pungent smell to come from the stator-You'll notice it when you seperate the cover.
I hope that this has been in some way helpfull
Kind regards Andrew Porrelli.

Posted on May 12, 2011

  • 738 Answers

SOURCE: want to know how many

14-16 volts max when running

Posted on May 12, 2011

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